Re-treading stairs ?

[g1_lo]

I have a small flight, 4 treads, of stairs which are in need of some repair.

The nosing has broken on two of them, and the treads are all pitted from women's high heels.

I was going to machine some 8mm to reface the treads and risers, and cut off all the nosing's and make them 8mm bigger to account for the extra height.

Domino's to reattach the nosing's.

So just wondering if there is a better way, other than complete new stairs.

Regards
Dave

 

[Alan m]

it is varnished, painted or carpeted

 

[g1_lo]

Varnished.

 

[carlb40]

Do you have access from the rear? If so cut out the old tread, make a new one and slide it in. Re glue etc etc.

When i was on maintenance, i could remove, make a new tread and replace it from above in 30 minutes.  ;D
Cut out the old one. Fix battens in ready - sides and rear. Make new tread slightly narrower than the overall width within the housing of the string. Pop one end in and carefully tap the other end in. You could make it easier by wedging the string apart and once the new tread is in, remove wedges and pin treads into place. Plenty of glue on the battens when fixing them and the tread.

I ended up getting all those type of jobs on the firm, 90% of the time i could replace them without scratching the paint. 

 

[g1_lo]

Unfortunately I don't have access to the underside. It's an access stairs off the kitchen to the garage.

Multiple staircases in a split level property and these are the only ones with no access.

I was trying to come up with a solution which didn't involve a load of additional trades coming in I.e plasterer etc if I were to replace them. Plus keeping the cost down.

 

[Paul G]

pictures would be helpful

 

[g1_lo]

pictures would be helpful

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures, and the property is a 50 mile round trip.

Its just basically a, standard built, straight flight of stairs with 4 treads with mahogany treads and risers and painted strings.

Just wanted to see if anyone else had done it before and come up with a better solution.

Cheers

 

[Holzhacker]

Assuming the treads are set into the stringers:
cut out the bad stair(s) router out or chisel if you have to, the inset on one side a 1/4" or so deeper, cut the new tread to the appropriate width, slide into the deeper side to maneuver into the other side, slide over to close gap, glue and tac nail in place
Assuming the treads are not set into stringers, you don't give your location, US or other side of the pond:
cut out bad stair(s), cut new tread very tight with 2 degree down bevel on one end, tap into place with glue and tac nail
- if the risers are nailed into the treads as is common cutting out the old treads will need to be done a bit more carefully to avoid cracking the bottom end of the risers
- multicaster comes in very handy for this job; if after 12/1 well then a good excuse for a new vecturo

 

[Brent Taylor]

Take a look at dutchmening in the areas in need of repair, mill up some new nosing and spend a few hours improving your craft. Give it a clear finish and you have a instant conversation piece. Grab some scrap at home and log some time and make some templates that you like and you can precut your inlay parts. Then when your other half wants some inlay done you will have time in so it should be easy to do later. B

 

[Floorman70]

you could always overlay your stairs with new one,just remove the nosings(just ensure your treads are securely fixed down to the risers),fasten the new riser over the existing one first,then fasten on your tread(if you do the riser first then if there is any slight bow on the tread,it won`t leave a gap against the riser),your stair will be the same size except the height of the top and bottom one,which will only alter by the thickness of the tread

 

[JimD]

I once converted a run of carpeted stairs to oak treads doing something like you need to.  I cut the softwood nosings off flush with the risers.  Then I put three pieces of solid oak flooring that was 3/8 thick over the remaining softwood tread.  Then I attached a customer nosing and a cove molding underneath to hide the nosing joint.  I didn't have a domino so the nosing was attached with construction adhesive and 3 large finish nails.  It sounds weak but construction adhesive is quite strong and able to fill I gaps up to 1/8 or so.  I cut shallow grooves for the flooring pieces into the softwood stringers using a veneer saw and chisels.  A vibrating saw would speed this up.  My case was a full run of stairs and took awhile.  For four treads, this shouldn't take too long.  Cutting the nosing off is probably the hardest part. 

 

[tjbnwi]

http://www.nustair.com

Tom

 

[BostonMike]

Take a look at retro tread...I used them to replace my treads and risers