Ready to Jump in; a little help please

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Charles Wilson

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Mar 14, 2007
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I have got the go ahead from the Commander in Chief and she said that I have permission to purchase some Festools.  The current project that I am working on is a picket fence.  Lots of repeated cuts for rails, stiles, pickets, post covers, and so on.  It will be made out of 3/4" red cedar.

I was thinking of either the TS 55 or the TS 75, CT 22, and the MFT 1080.  Opinions?

Any other goodies that I should order as well (extra anti-chip pieces, clamps, etc.)?

Chuck
 
Hey Chuck
I have the TS 75 and it rocks. Excellent dust collection and perfect cuts.
The CT 22 is another Festool that I am happy to own. It has the same suction power as the CT 33, but has a smaller tank.
The 1080 MFT is great, but the 800 comes pretty close.
I initially got the 800 deluxe MFT. After about a week, I added a standard 1080 and gave my old homemade workbench away.
I was having floorspace issues in my small workshop and one of those benches had to go.
The 800 model is about 30 lbs lighter and half the surface area. A sturdy lightweight model that you can take rather easily anywhere.
The 1080 is bigger and very sturdy, due to it's added weight. If you have a permanent spot for this, it is great. Technically, it's portable, but I wouldn't want to haul it up too many flights of stairs by myself.
If I had it to do all over again though, I would probably buy the parts and build a really big MFT like that Expanded MFT.

Ya know, you can upgrade the guide rail lengths when you order a saw or a table for the difference in price between rails.

I really like the 120 mm clamps, and the quick clamps. I've got a set of 300 mm clamps, but I don't use them that much.

hope this may help

Greg
 
Chuck,

You didn't describe the shape of the tops of the pickets.  If each of the pickets is curved, a jigsaw would make quick work of cutting those shapes.  On the other hand, you could also make yourself a template and use your router with a bushing or bearing guided bit to shape those pickets.

Dave R
 
Their sanding tools are the best, bar none.  Go for one of the random orbit jobs.  I use the 125 mm one more often than the 150...it just fits my hand perfectly.
 
My first buy was a RO125 and the Ct22 -- next it was the MFT1080 and the saw, then another 1080 to have a larger work surface. I have no traditional work bench.  I still think the sanders are some of the best of the Festools because they are very smooth and the dust collection has changed my work environment.

use the saw a fair amount, but not enough to give up my table saw. However, I do use the saw and MFT for MOST of my cross-cuts and I use the MFT, sander, and CT22 on EVERY project I do. A good start is the saw, MFT, CT22/33, and a multipurpose sander such as the RO125/150 or the ETS 150s.
John
 
Dave Ronyak said:
Chuck,

You didn't describe the shape of the tops of the pickets.  If each of the pickets is curved, a jigsaw would make quick work of cutting those shapes.  On the other hand, you could also make yourself a template and use your router with a bushing or bearing guided bit to shape those pickets.

Dave R
Click to expand...

Here is a link to the fence:http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/home_clinic/1276551.html?page=1

I have a 14" band saw and a Bosch 1591 to handle any curves. 

I know that a TS would probably be the best for the repeated rips.  However, I am very leery of the tool as I feel it is very dangerous.  So until the SawStop contractor version comes out I am not sure that I would even consider it.  Everyone that I meet (even the UPS guy who delivers to our house) knows someone who has cut off or has almost cut off their fingers with this tool.  My wife, being a physical therapist, sees people who cut their hands (like holding a bagel in your hand and cutting it) and says these are some of the worst injuries to come back from and get full use of the hand even if it is save.  Another hand injury (hand being stepped on and cut up by ice skate) happened to a guy who played for one of the semi-pro hockey teams.  Save his hand but had to wear a "Freddy Krueger" glove around to stretch the tendons.  Needless to say his hockey career was over but stayed here in the area to be a contractor. 

I have seen or heard of too much to take the "risk".  To me a TS is kind of like the Autobon, it is real safe until there is a crash and then there is a 100 car pile up.

Chuck
 
For making parts that thin, I wouldn't even think about anything other than a table saw.  A far higher percentage of people will have car accidents today than accidents with table saws, or really people any tool, but you would not stop driving, would you?  Know how to use the saw and respect the saw and anyone will be fine.  Ask the people who were injured what/how did the injury happen and 99.9% will tell you that they did something they should not being doing and it was stupid.

You can use this helper to make sure your fingers never come close to the blade, and you'll also get better quality cuts too.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=4393
 
Sorry Charles but I'm a little confused, you started the thread saying you have an interest in the TS, and then proceed to claim it is an accident waiting to happen. Could you qualify the type of accident you are concerned this saw is prone to, I have a lot of experience with the TS55, what am I missing.

p.s. the domino could help you join the uprights to the rail on the picket fence, but wear some earplugs if you are in a confined space.
 
Mr Jones said:
Sorry Charles but I'm a little confused, you started the thread saying you have an interest in the TS, and then proceed to claim it is an accident waiting to happen. Could you qualify the type of accident you are concerned this saw is prone to, I have a lot of experience with the TS55, what am I missing.

p.s. the domino could help you join the uprights to the rail on the picket fence, but wear some earplugs if you are in a confined space.
Click to expand...

I believe that Charles was using TS for "Table Saw", not as TS in a festool saw.
 
Ahhh, thanks for that, I've got the CMS so I do recognise the dangers of a Table Saw, you need to have a good talk with yourself every time you start using one, I've just been making 3*8mm beading for cabinet doors.

Although the danger of horrible injury is present with these powerful table saws self discipline helps you to maintain the required level of respect towards them. It's a good idea to discover and remember the types of accidents people have had with these tools.
 
The bandsaw is often characterized as among the safest of the floor model shop tools.  If the blade breaks, it normally just makes a bang and remains contained within the housing.  The work piece and cutoff are not at risk of becoming a missile like those flung by a table saw.  Even so, there are sad stories of people pushing their fingers right through the blade.  All cutting tools by definition are designed to cut, and therefore require respect and constant attention to avoid injury.  If you hold your Domino machine, or even your TS 55 or TS 75 saw in the wrong places and you will be injured by the edges of the cutting tools.

Dave R.
 
Be present. Be Mindful. When you are woodworking you are woodworking. Daydreaming is for the couch.
 
Just at the hospital now for my wife's foot surgery and met a family that had someone in the OR for a woodworking injury.  Working on a tablesaw and had a kickback accident.  FOR ME PERSONALLY, this is why I don't want to use a table saw.  It is just a safety issue for me.  For all of you that still use the table saw, please be very careful.

Chuck
 
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