Refacing project, part II

[HowardH]

Ok, I  believe I have the construction of my new doors down but now comes the what most folks think is the hardest part - the finishing.  My choice is to paint, not really a choice since the the rest of the kitchen is already painted.  I have a cheap HVLP sprayer from Woodcraft, their $99 special and quickly found it isn't up to the task of properly applying latex, even after thinning. Big time orange peel.  I'm considering getting a real turbine system like a Fuji Q3.  Any comments on this approach or would appreciate any other systems that you have used which will work with latex.  I want spend about $700-800 max.  Thanks in advance.

 

[Eli]

There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread

 

[Qwas]

I just bought a Fuji S4 that was on sale. It was mentioned somewhere in this FOG. I'm new to spray painting but so far I like the Fuji S4.

All turbine HVLP systems will have problems with latex. It is too thick to spray effectively. You need to use the largest needle made for your gun and add Flotrol to the paint. You can buy Flotrol at Home Depot. If you still want to use latex perhaps someone else can give you more advice.

 

[Corwin]

Those Fuji SE4's were going fast.  Check out the tenth reply (from Dave) for the link to Phelps Finishing in this thread on Spray Equipment.  Mine came the other day, but it will be a little while before I'm ready to give her a spin.  

 

[Dave Rudy]

There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread

Jerry Work uses and recommends Accuspray IIRC.

 

[MarkF]

I'm undertaking a similar project.  Our 11 year old white latex sprayed kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts are crazing, cracking and peeling in places.  The paint is OK on the cabinet face frames so I will be stripping and spraying the old doors and drawer fronts.  I plan to use a color matched white pigmented lacquer which I'm told will spray fine in my conversion gun (HF43430...I know it's not in the same league as the other guns being discussed but it works well for the quantity of spraying I do...I'm a wipe on Armor Seal fan ;D) on top of a vinyl sealer base coat.  It will take a few more coats to get the same coverage as latex but dries fast and doesn't require a new gun nozzle/needle.  If it doesn't do well on the first door I'll strip the whole lot and take them in to a cabinet shop and have a pro do it.

 

[Eli]

There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread

Jerry Work uses and recommends Accuspray IIRC.

My bad.

 

[HowardH]

I saw that ad for the Q4 for $695. Sounds like a great deal.  It would sure make a professional looking finish possible.

 

[Jerry Work]

Hi all,

I used to have a 3 stage Accuspray and for the last several years have used a 4 stage Apollo.  Bleeder vs non-bleeder is a non-issue as you should use a remote control to turn the screaming turbine on and off anyway.  My only recommendation is a four stage over a three stage turbine as air really does matter.  Any of the good brands will work well as long as you opt for their four stage unit.  Three stage units will work and are a bit less expensive, but they require more attention to viscosity and flow rates to get a quality finish with water based materials.  Water based materials will vary quite a bit right out of the can depending on how long they have been on the shelf and the material composition.  The names used are just indicators of the properties the paint chemist was trying to achieve as they all are straight from the test tube.  No lac bugs involved as they are with most conventional finishes.  Lacquer, varnish and shellac are all derived from that little critter or its regurgitations disolved in various things like alcohol, raw or cooked tree saps or other similar materials.

Jerry

There's a lot of discussion about the Q4. Mr Ronyak and Mr Work both use them I believe. I'll see if I run across the thread

Jerry Work uses and recommends Accuspray IIRC.