Referencing the Domino

suds

Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
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I must be doing something wrong with my referencing the Domino.  Connecting two boards at right angles I end up with a slight (1/8") lip on one of the boards.  I've tried referencing the way I'd think it should be with the first board flat on the workpiece, there's only one way it can be mortised.  The next board that would go on "top" to make the right angle is where I must be off.  To me, it should be referenced on the "outside" edge to create the mortise on the end of the board.  I do it that way and end up off by 1/8".  ???
 
Check to be sure you are referencing off the top of the work piece and not the top of the table. It's a common mistake.

Tom
 
suds - you are referring to doing a right angle butt joint aren't you?

If so, I would use the fence of the Domino as the reference surface - not the base. Lay the fence on top of the outer flat surface first board being butted into the second for that cut then use the fence on the outer end of the second board and should give the same position. I am sure someone here can explain this far better than I. The second cut gives the fence very little surface to lay on so recommend you stack some boards or find a way to increase that edge thickness to give a straighter cut.
Pete
 
I think what you're trying to do is described on pg 14 of Rick's supplemental manual:
http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/Domino_DF_500.pdf

When doing the operation shown in the upper picture pg 14, make sure the Domino is not resting on the bench.  Otherwise the fence on top of the board may not be able to set down onto the board properly.

Does that description match the process you are following?
 
Suds:

The best way I know to ensure you are referencing from the fence and not the table is to get in the habit of hanging the end of the work piece off the table.

Tom
 
Yes, making the right angle butt joint.  I was using the book I purchased from Festool and they put a x and y on the boards.  I followed what I though was the way they were doing it but ended up off.  Flipped board over and did it from the other end and it was right on.  Thank you for the tip on the manual...I'm heading home to get this fig'd out.  On page 14 example they put the Y on the inside of "Side Cap" (Dark board) and the X on the outside of "Front/Rear", so that's where I placed my base for each cut.  
 
Speaking of Rick Christopherson and referencing a Domino, has anyone here used his Multi-position Guide?

I'd like to get some feedback on it.

Main-lo.jpg

platesandtabs.jpg
 
I would just add one thing to Rick's manual and the technique for butt joints on page 14. Either clamp some extra boards behind the one you are mortising for extra support, or make the top of the mortised board flush with the top of the workbench (just be careful not to mortise all the way through the board!). You may need to offset the depth of the mortise.

Richard.
 
suds said:
Yes, making the right angle butt joint.  I was using the book I purchased from Festool and they put a x and y on the boards.  I followed what I though was the way they were doing it but ended up off.  Flipped board over and did it from the other end and it was right on.  Thank you for the tip on the manual...I'm heading home to get this fig'd out.  On page 14 example they put the Y on the inside of "Side Cap" (Dark board) and the X on the outside of "Front/Rear", so that's where I placed my base for each cut.  

The board that you mortise in the vertical position (lowest picture on page 14 of my manual) can only be referenced from the end grain and the fence, so that is not where your problem lies. However, the board that is mortised laying flat on the bench (top picture) must have the outside surface of the finished joint facing the fence. I suspect you were flipping this board over either during mortising, or during assembly.
 
After a hour of reading your very helpful information and experimenting, I was able to get it done correctly.  This is all new to me and somewhat confusing but I spent a great afternoon just learning more about how the Festool system works.  Thank you for your help.
 
Like any new tool, it has a learning curve.  Once you 'get' it, you'll find yourself dropping the mortises accurately wherever you want them (even into your benchtop should that be what you want :)
 
I'm using my Domino for the first time building a 54" wide x 24" high x20" deep tv stand.  I'm going very slowly, reading the suggested manuals along the way.  I must say, this project is going together just about perfectly.  Before I started, I checked the spacing of the pins ( I bought the discontinued metal pin model).  I tried making a slight adjustment of the adjustable pin, but it would only turn in one direction - not the direction I thought I needed it to turn.  I called Lester at Festool Service and he said to send it in for a fix. I told him I'd make some test cuts and I'd see how far off it was.  Turns out, it was perfectly adjusted.
It's worked like a charm.  I really like that I can dry assemble the case to check it all out before final glue assembly.  I thought I might need to use some pocket screws, but no need.  Lots of applications to learn yet.
 
I've found that once the tool is aligned with the work piece, push down on the front knob to steady the machine. and then gently push in the rear of the machine to cut the mortise.
 
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