Regarding Clamping Elements Depth

[turningfreak]

I have a quick question about the Festool Clamping Elements (the MFT accessory)—how deep do they go into the holes on the MFT? I ask because I don't have an MFT and I'm currently designing a workbench that I would like to be compatible with the clamping elements (the metric holes are a pain but worth it, IMO). Thanks in advance!

 

[Stone Message]

I assume that you mean the (mainly) black plastic clamps. Each half has a small dowel part that fits down into a single hole in the MFT3. It does not pertrude beyond the underside of the MFT3 but, when correctly used, they have a screw in knob that secures them in place. This knob screws in from underneath. Some people use them without the securing knob. In most cases that works well but the work piece can elevate a little as the clamp tends to buckle upwards. Failure to use the knob can, in the long term, ruin the shape of the hole in the MFT3.

Should you be considering other clamps for the MFT3 you need to consider that they all need plenty of room underneath in order to allow the right angle metal end to fit down and through the hole in the MFT3. You may also want to use then with the 'action end' beneath the MFT3 in which case you need even more room.

Peter

 

[turningfreak]

I assume that you mean the (mainly) black plastic clamps. Each half has a small dowel part that fits down into a single hole in the MFT3. It does not pertrude beyond the underside of the MFT3 but, when correctly used, they have a screw in knob that secures them in place. This knob screws in from underneath. Some people use them without the securing knob. In most cases that works well but the work piece can elevate a little as the clamp tends to buckle upwards. Failure to use the knob can, in the long term, ruin the shape of the hole in the MFT3.

Hi Peter, thanks for the reply.

Let me clarify a little bit—my idea is to use the Festool clamping elements set as bench dog replacements on a workbench that I'm building. I'm not sure whether or not the clamping elements will fit as the holes are not completely through (I'm just asking for dust to settle in there, I know). If you or someone on this board could measure how deeply the clamping elements reach into the hole, that would be great. Thanks!

 

[Alan m]

i would think 16mm .i will measure.
i woulnt want blind holes in there , every bit of dust will fill the holes rapidly. but on the flip side at least it wont fall through on top of your tools underneth

 

[Tinker]

I assume that you mean the (mainly) black plastic clamps. Each half has a small dowel part that fits down into a single hole in the MFT3. It does not pertrude beyond the underside of the MFT3 but, when correctly used, they have a screw in knob that secures them in place. This knob screws in from underneath. Some people use them without the securing knob. In most cases that works well but the work piece can elevate a little as the clamp tends to buckle upwards. Failure to use the knob can, in the long term, ruin the shape of the hole in the MFT3.

Should you be considering other clamps for the MFT3 you need to consider that they all need plenty of room underneath in order to allow the right angle metal end to fit down and through the hole in the MFT3. You may also want to use then with the 'action end' beneath the MFT3 in which case you need even more room.

Peter

I had thought about the disfigurement of the holes from not using the knobs under my clamps.  The clamps do rise up now and then, but over the years with my MFT 1080, i have not noticed any damage.  My biggest concern has been the groving from cutting into my table with the AFT 55.  The surface eventually got chewed up enough that I was having problems with cutting thin pieces on the table.  With my newer MFT/3 i have put down strips of MDF for protection.  That does keep the table nice and neat, but there are other problems involved with that method.  The jury (for me) is still out over which way is better.

My verdict was, long ago, to just use the clamps without locking with the knobs.  Almost every project i do is different that the last.  If i were attempting mass production in any way, i would probably lock them down.
Tinker

 

[tbellemare]

I've had the clamping elements buck up on me a few times and I think it was always when I was trying to put too much pressure on them. Like Tinker, I've never used the screw knobs.

Tom

 

[Tinker]

I replied to another section that i find other ways to hold work down.  Sometimes I use a quick clamp on the head of the sliding clamp and sometimes onto the wood.  Either way, it seems quicker than digging out a knob and trying to find the correct hole in the table to screw into the clamp.  Other times, an extra block of wood will shorten the extension of the clamp and will suffice in keeping the head down on the table. 
Tinker

 

[Stone Message]

Hi Peter, thanks for the reply.

Let me clarify a little bit—my idea is to use the Festool clamping elements set as bench dog replacements on a workbench that I'm building. I'm not sure whether or not the clamping elements will fit as the holes are not completely through (I'm just asking for dust to settle in there, I know). If you or someone on this board could measure how deeply the clamping elements reach into the hole, that would be great. Thanks!

I would allow 19 mm (the thickness of the MFT3 top and then add a bit for muck in the hole.

Peter