Removal of (crooked) anchor screw plugs from ceiling ?

threesixright

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Hi,

Looking for some tips.

I removed a ceiling which was hung from the ceiling with metal framing. Whats left are the pieces of "wire" hanging (see picture), they where screwed with anchor plugs (I think the ones you can use a hammer on). The problem with removing is most of them are crooked, and unscrewing basically removes the PH head.

Anybody got a good tip getting these out, without wrecking the ceiling?

Much obliged!

 

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Did you try a larger PH on them (e.g., No. 3 vs No. 2)?  Would a screw extractor work?  Needle-nose pliers?  Set them in below surface and compound over them?  Last resort just push them through if there is no stud behind them and patch hole with compound.  Good luck!
 
cgrutt said:
Did you try a larger PH on them (e.g., No. 3 vs No. 2)?  Would a screw extractor work?  Needle-nose pliers?  Set them in below surface and compound over them?  Last resort just push them through if there is no stud behind them and patch hole with compound.  Good luck!
Thanks!

There in concrete, so push through will not work. I tried a crowbar that’s works a bit, but can’t say it’s great.

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A grinder with a cut off wheel should make short work of it.

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Sorry didn't realize they were in concrete my bad.  Yeah, grinder would probably do the trick.  Good luck.
 
3rd vote for a RA grinder with a .040" thick cut off blade. You'll actually want to be able to leave a little divot in the ceiling to make sure the wire/metal is below the surface. Spot patch, sand and then skim coat. You'll be good to go.
 
Thanks all. I wanted to see if I could avoid using the grinder. Kind of a last resort thing. But it would look like the only option.

Prefer to pull/screw then out. But that might become mission impossible. [emoji51]

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The ones the ceiling fixers often use in the uk are shot into the underside of the concrete witha Hilti powder actuated nailgun on whats basically a long stick so the guys doing it don't have to be on stepladders to do it.
Those ones are very hard indeed and won't have recesses for a screwdriver bit.
A grinder with one of those thin cutting discs should do the trick.
 
demographic said:
The ones the ceiling fixers often use in the uk are shot into the underside of the concrete witha Hilti powder actuated nailgun on whats basically a long stick so the guys doing it don't have to be on stepladders to do it.
Yeah. Know what you mean. Picture is shitty, but these do have a PH head.

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I come along a lot of screws that have to be removed from a wall or ceiling during painting.

First thing I'd try is my wera diamond screw bits, they have the best grip I know because of the diamond coating. First try the normal size, probably PH2, if that doesn't work the smaller PH1. Never the bigger PH3 though, the bigger one will destroy your screwheads immediately. And put the drill on the low speed/high torque setting. Impact driver would be best of course if you have one.

If that doesn't work I try some needle nose pliers to see if I can get a grip on the entire screw and plug to pull it out.

And then I would try a drill with a metal drill bit in it like 6 or 8 mm. Like said, you only need to remove a little bit of the screw to get it under the line so you can patch it up with cement or plaster. 
 
threesixright said:
Thanks all. I wanted to see if I could avoid using the grinder. Kind of a last resort thing. But it would look like the only option.

Well, I could recommend imploded the building and start constructing a new one. That's much more last resort and makes an angle grinder sound sensible.

 
threesixright said:
Yeah. Know what you mean. Picture is bad, but these do have a PH head.

I don't know what you mean by "PH head", but based on the struggles, is going in with a small hole saw off set from these fasteners an option. If you can drill in offset (so pilot bit misses the offending object), then snap out the concrete plug with the screw. Then patch the hole with a proper concrete or other material. 

Of course if this is a structural ceiling of a design that drilling such holes is not an option, don't do this. Never compromise structure or do anything without fully knowing you are good.  I assume there is some level of penetration you can do without compromising anything.
 
How flush is the head to the ceiling? Can you get the head of the screw chucked up in a drill chuck? I've removed a lot of broken/damaged screws/studs by grabbing them in a drill chuck.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
How flush is the head to the ceiling? Can you get the head of the screw chucked up in a drill chuck? I've removed a lot of broken/damaged screws/studs by grabbing them in a drill chuck.

The ceiling is flush, but the wire/rod that is coming down (that was holding the metal frame) is between the head of the screw and the ceiling. I'm sure I can cut it with a grinder.

But, I just  wanted to remove the screws (if possible) and fill the holes. Perfectionist I'am  [eek]

Alex said:
First thing I'd try is my wera diamond screw bits, they have the best grip I know because of the diamond coating. First try the normal size, probably PH2, if that doesn't work the smaller PH1. Never the bigger PH3 though, the bigger one will destroy your screwheads immediately. And put the drill on the low speed/high torque setting. Impact driver would be best of course if you have one.

Great advices, I happen to have a pair of WERA VDE, with a great head indeed!. Will give that a try. Can't believe didn't think of that  [embarassed]
 
tjbnwi said:
How flush is the head to the ceiling? Can you get the head of the screw chucked up in a drill chuck? I've removed a lot of broken/damaged screws/studs by grabbing them in a drill chuck.

Tom

Thats the trick I use for broken screws and even a broken exhaust stud on a motorcycle.
A chuck is just a vice for round objects after all.
 
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