Sadly, once peeled, the chances of it laying back perfectly have diminished greatly. The color/finish/texture of the laminate plays a big role in how visible it will be. Darker and more shiny are the worst, along with solid colors. Patterns or wood grains and flat or matte finishes hide problems in the substrate. "Soft" bumps can sometimes be minimized by concentrating on rolling them out with a steel roller, not a rubber J-roller.
With "hard" bumps, like a chip of laminate, rolling can actually make it worse.
The thickness of the laminate makes a difference too. "Technically" there are 3 grades (thicknesses) of laminate, though the original "standard" grade is getting harder obtain, at least around here. Most of what is available for horizontal applications is what is known as "Post Form" grade. It is thinner than the old standard, making it far easier to bend. The tops you see in home centers with the integral backsplash and rolled front edge are made with this and it has kind of replaced the old thick stuff.
Then there is a "vertical" grade, quite a bit thinner, but not nearly as durable. It is fine for cabinet sides and doors, it just won't stand up to being "used" on a countertop very well.
The thin stuff is the worst about showing defects underneath, but it is most likely that you have the middle thickness material.
In the future, if this ever happens again(or for anyone else looking to do this) first, don't panic. You absolutely can/will make it worse. This all assumes a solvent-based contact cement BTW.
Since you had it partly/mostly stuck (in the correct position) the only real problem is the rogue stuck place. That can easily be peeled up buy applying some lacquer thinner to only the stuck area. What you need to do to get it there depends upon how it is stuck, but a squirt bottle works well in most cases. If you need to tilt the piece and pour it under the nearest gap, that works too. The main thing is to not put too much pressure on it. The pressure actually transfers around and will cause it to push down somewhere else and get more of it stuck as you peel on the other end. When you get it un-stuck, pull it back over the permanently stuck part and allow all of it to dry some more. It should take very little pressure when pulling it up, this allows the glue to melt and release, rather than forcing it apart. That tears the glue and you will get bumps from it later. After the new solvent has dried a while, give it a very light re-spray of contact, and proceed in rolling the sheet out. Once the main part of it is stuck and you have the rest rolled up like a hinge, it will lay down straight. It has no choice as long as you allow it to roll out and not touch ahead of the rest.
This same technique does work if you are stuck crooked and have to remove the whole thing too. It just takes more solvent (lacquer thinner). Stuck is not ruined, cracked is.
I have been doing this a long time, have stuck thousands of sheets of this stuff, and it still happens once in a while. Whether it is a chunk of dust in the air or a piece that was cut too close to size and I missed when sticking, it happens. I have also had people bump into and crack the overhanging part, requiring a peel and re-stick. Trim the overhang as quickly as possible too. The sooner you peel it the better, the bond does get stronger over time.
Long story, but it could have saved this job. I hope it does for the next guy.
