Removing jammed Collet/Cutter from OF1010

[rdr]

Guys after some tips or tricks as I'm sure I'm missing something...

I keep getting into situations where the collet nut is loose but I cant easily pull the Cutter or Collet out of the router. They are seriously stuck to the point I have resorted to grips around the cutter shank to wiggle it out. What am I doing wrong? is there an easy/obvious way to avoid this or remove the cutter? Own a Dewalt and Erbeuer too and never encounter issues.

Thanks in Advance

 

[Sanderxpander]

There's a "double" release actually. After you initially loosen the collet, keep turning and you'll feel it tighten again. Press the green collet locking button again and loosen again with the key. Now your bit should fall right out. This is by design.

 

[rst]

Another trick for removing stuck bits from compression style collets is to be sure not to bottom out the bit in the collet.  If not bottomed out you can push down on the bit and that movement will often release it from the collet.

 

[rdr]

Thanks Guys

I am making sure the collet is totally loose, ill have a look at if I'm bottoming out the bit, some cutters have a line on them which i assume is a depth marker to insert it too? I normally use that or just push it in all the way which i guess could be binding it up on the bottom. Its almost like a morse taper effect, they really do get stuck  [unsure]

 

[Sanderxpander]

Is it still stuck when you take the collet off?

 

[RKA]

It's good practice to drop the bit into the collet all the way, then back it out 1/8" or so, then tighten the collet.  I do the same with drill bits.  The theory is you want some clearance behind the bit so the collet or jaws can hold the bit perfectly centered without hindrance.  With the router spinning the bit at 25K rpms, even a slight shift off center could be felt.  But, like everything else on the internet, I'm sure it's up for debate, but doing this cost you nothing and rst's suggestion is an added benefit.

 

[dltflt]

I put a rubber washer in before I put the Bit in, that keeps it from getting stuck.  I don’t remember what washer I used but I know I got it in the plumbing department.

 

[Cheese]

It's good practice to drop the bit into the collet all the way, then back it out 1/8" or so, then tighten the collet. 

That's exactly how I do it, bottom the bit and then pull it back out 1/8"-1/4", then tighten the collet.

As RKA explained, if you just bottom the router bit and then tighten the collet, the bit is already resting on the bottom of the collet hole. Then as you tighten the collet, the collet first firmly grips the bit and as you continue to turn the collet nut, the collet tries to move down further in the collet hole, however it's unable to because the router bit is already bottomed out. Thus, the nut gets tight and you think everything is properly seated, however nothing is actually seated.
You then turn on the router and through the combination of high rotational speed coupled with vibrations, the collet loosens up and that nice dado you're cutting becomes a mess.

A number of years ago small rubber balls were being sold to place inside the collet hole. Thus if the bit bottomed out, the collet would still tighten because the rubber ball would just start to flatten out.

 

[rdr]

thanks all

It's probably is me bottoming out the Cutter, once I get the cutter and collet out the cutter slides out of the collet without effort. Weird i haven't come across this in 15 years of owning routers until the OF1010, maybe the Festool is more of a precision fit.

 

[peter halle]

On the topic of insertion depth, Festool router bits have lines marking the correct depth for Festool collets.  Not sure that they all do but here is an example:

[attachimg=1]

Peter

 

[greg mann]

Metalworking collet chucks have a threaded portion to hold an adjustable stop to bottom cutters out against, which is exactly what you guys are preaching against. It does not matter.