Replacement of lawn edge [Complete]

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Apr 25, 2014
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Unfortunately the ice rain last winter disintegrated the front edge. Was made out of cheap concrete pavers. I will replace with Belgan block...

Used my Chinese made small jack hammer to remove the old stuff (Saturday)

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Trimmed the edge of the walkway with my small angle grinder... (Sunday)

Where is the Festool track angle grinder when you need it.....?

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Some hammering

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Also pored base to set the new stones ...
 

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Slartibartfass said:
Unfortu . . .

Where is the Festool track angle grinder when you need it.....?
[size=14pt]
Well once again it's not available to you!  [eek]
http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/769002/SubProducts/769002
[size=12pt]
It's part of the former Protool range that were renamed Festool last year. It has a little brother/sister too. I do not own either: have other Festool priorities.

It is probably not as 'brutal' as one of these, but the Festool does use a guide rail.
http://www.stihl.com.au/STIHL-Products/Cut-off-Saws-Concrete-Saw/Cut-off-Saws/21340-1597/TS-420.aspx
[size=14pt]
Nice work by the way.
Good to see some non wood projects now and then.    [smile]

[member=32690]Slartibartfass[/member]
 
Use a heavier hammer that is meant for the job.  You won't have to swing so hard and you will have better control of the strike.  Unless, of course, you enjoy hammering into your hand. ???
A 3 or 4 pound striking hamer will lessen the fatigue and also you will get a smoother edge to the concrete facilitating setting your B-block edging in a straighter front (exposure)

Of course, that Stile saw would eliminate use of hammer completely.  You might not stand the dust cloud, but that sucker will cut even deeper than you need.
Tinker
 
@  Slartibartfass
Just happened to think of a problem ahead.
The lower edge of the broken off concrete is a little rough.  I don't know how tight you are planning to get to your cut edge.  Your stones will, for the most part, have a "belly" on each face.  that will keep the lined up edges a little off the line.  The under side of the cut concrete will add further distance off the straight cut edge of the concrete slabs.  You will probably want to cut back that protrusion to keep a closer line with your stones.  AVOID under cutting the concrete.  It is ok to knock off some of those nubs, but don't go all out for perfection.
Tinker
 
Tinker said:
@  Slartibartfass
Just happened to think of a problem ahead.
The lower edge of the broken off concrete is a little rough.  I don't know how tight you are planning to get to your cut edge.  Your stones will, for the most part, have a "belly" on each face.  that will keep the lined up edges a little off the line.  The under side of the cut concrete will add further distance off the straight cut edge of the concrete slabs.  You will probably want to cut back that protrusion to keep a closer line with your stones.  AVOID under cutting the concrete.  It is ok to knock off some of those nubs, but don't go all out for perfection.
Tinker

[member=550]Tinker[/member]

I enjoy hitting my hand.... Serioulsy That is the largest hammer I have other than a monster sledgehammer you could use to break the slab......

Always interesting how you can get to the same result with minimal tools and a lot of sweat and swearing.....

I cleaned up the edge of the slabs all the way down with the grinder.

Also the belgian block will be set back from the slab closer to the lawn. I wanted to have some space on both side of the belgian block so I can set them nicely into mortar....
 
Here is the 2inch thick pored base (not calling it a foundation....):

Btw, the eye muffs came in handy with all the breaking..... Excellent when you wear glasses like I do....

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Hope that the weather plays nice this weekend so I can finish setting the B-blocks. Was raining last weekend....

Still need to do some clean up of the walkway edge so I can put an expansion joint (thick tar paper/board) flush with the walkway.

And I got a 2.5 and 4lb Wilton Bash sledge hammer for future use based on [member=550]Tinker[/member] 's comment...

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Slartibartfass said:
And I got a 2.5 and 4lb Wilton Bash sledge hammer for future use based on [member=550]Tinker[/member] 's comment...

Hey Malte, good choice for hammers & size.
For concrete work my go-to hammers are a 2# and a 3# Estwing sledge. If that doesn't work then I go to a 10# maul and if I need more than that, I drag out the 1 1/2" rotary hammer.

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Slartibartfass said:
Hope that the weather plays nice this weekend so I can finish setting the B-blocks. Was raining last weekend....

Still need to do some clean up of the walkway edge so I can put an expansion joint (thick tar paper/board) flush with the walkway.

And I got a 2.5 and 4lb Wilton Bash sledge hammer for future use based on [member=550]Tinker[/member] 's comment...

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Good choice.  When i was doing stone work with hammer & various stone chisels/pitches, wedges, etc, I used 3# and 4# with wood handles.  The fiberglass and steel gave to much vibration feed back to my wrist & elbow.  But I was doing it all day long.  Even the fiberglass and/or steel handles with padding as you show were uncomfortable. 

I never heard of a Wilton hammer.  Shoulda known about them.  I grew up, and 75% of my mason work was done in Wilton, CT.  Almost all of my LS work is still being done in the same town, Wilton.

The only Estwings (mentioned by Cheese in the reply following yours) I ever used were the claw hammers. Those things were hell on my wrist.

Tinker
 
Those Wilton BASH hammers are relatively new to the market and appear to be really slick. I haven't used one yet but they are guaranteed not to break and are supposed to be easy on the hands/wrists.

Tom
 
Based on a picture in a little brochure included with the hammer the handle seems to consists of a whole bunch of individual metal rods lumped together.... that should make it next to unbreakable as claimed and soften the impact on the wrist somewhat....

And I am just realizing they are green too! Way to go.....  [big grin]
 
Progress. Unfortunately ran out of mortar and had to get more. Hope to finish tomorrow.

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Completed Belgian block edge:

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Slartibartfass said:
Trimmed the edge of the walkway with my small angle grinder... (Sunday)

Where is the Festool track angle grinder when you need it.....?

Also awesome to have, would be a track string trimmer... I can't for the life of me cut a straight edge on my lawn
 
Slartibartfass said:
Progress. Unfortunately ran out of mortar and had to get more. Hope to finish tomorrow.

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I like your slipform/expansion joint.
Most DIY'ers and even pros do not think of that.
and it appears you folded it the right way as well.
Very good job. 

Tinker
 
Slartibartfass said:
...
Where is the Festool track angle grinder when you need it.....?
...

Bosch makes something more appropriately sized.



The Festool one is 5 inches, which means your depth of cut would be 2 inches or so.
 
sae said:
Slartibartfass said:
...
Where is the Festool track angle grinder when you need it.....?
...

For what he used it for, the grinder did a better job and safer too.
A fiber blade on a circular saw would have been better than the toothed blade for that particular project.  He might have gone thru a couple of fiber blades, but that toothed blade would bounce all over the place.  That blade would be fine cutting thru the middle of a piece of concrete or stone as shown.  But not kissing off the rough broken edges of the slabs.
Tinker
Tinker

Bosch makes something more appropriately sized.



The Festool one is 5 inches, which means your depth of cut would be 2 inches or so.
 
Re: The Bash Hammers.

Have had the 8 pound sledge at work for a while. Employees love it.

Loved it so much bought the 4 pound drilling hammer for personal use last year.

Just added the 24 & 40oz (2.5Lb!) Ball Pein hammers and have been using the big one each day on a project. They are expensive but worth it. Doubly worth it if you are my age and still beating on stuff this hard!
 
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