Review of the Festool T15+3 cordless drill.
- Thread starter Brice Burrell
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woodguy7 said:Kreg,
You do know that when a cordless drill stops working, you can charge the battery. You don't have to buy a new one each time
Woodguy
did not know that , thanks !!!! lol
Holzhacker
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I've had the T15 for a couple weeks now and have been able to beat on it a bit. Let me state my annoyance with the drill and get that out of the way. The T15 is $100+ overpriced. When I am not using the T15 I absolutely hate that I spent $635.00 on a cordless. Our sales tax is 10.25% :'(
The package without the chucks for $450.00 is an insult and dumb marketing idea. Without the chucks the drill loses price justification. The entire kit should be $450.00 I doubt Festool will see substantial sales increase on that kit. The cost is still too high. Enough said.
If you can stomach the price point, BUY the T15. When I use the drill I don't give a damn about the price. The drill is a joy to use. The lack of weight is not only impressive but healthy.
How many of us have used a cordless all day and at some point felt it in the wrist? The lack of weight and therefore lack of bodily stress makes the drill worth the price.
The batteries are great, the chucks I'm used to due to my C12, the gearing and speeds are much nicer than anything else.
So far the drill has handled everything I have tried to torque it to death with. We'll see what happens when I make it drill 4.25 and 6.25 holesaw holes for recessed cans in plaster and lath.
Looking for a great cordless that will not wear you out, buy the T15, really.
The package without the chucks for $450.00 is an insult and dumb marketing idea. Without the chucks the drill loses price justification. The entire kit should be $450.00 I doubt Festool will see substantial sales increase on that kit. The cost is still too high. Enough said.
If you can stomach the price point, BUY the T15. When I use the drill I don't give a damn about the price. The drill is a joy to use. The lack of weight is not only impressive but healthy.
How many of us have used a cordless all day and at some point felt it in the wrist? The lack of weight and therefore lack of bodily stress makes the drill worth the price.
The batteries are great, the chucks I'm used to due to my C12, the gearing and speeds are much nicer than anything else.
So far the drill has handled everything I have tried to torque it to death with. We'll see what happens when I make it drill 4.25 and 6.25 holesaw holes for recessed cans in plaster and lath.
Looking for a great cordless that will not wear you out, buy the T15, really.
FestoolLady
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Having used my C12 for a year, I thought I would never put it away. After receiving my T15 3 months
ago, I have not used my C12. I have used my T15 in many different ways. Using a paddle mixer,
I have used for mixing tile grout and drywall mud. I no longer have to use my 1/2" B & D HD Drill. The T15 is a great
Drill with power to spare. Thank you for a great product. Have not made up my mind about the Systainer. Yes,
I have dumped everything out, having forgot to latch. I still like the convenience with a some extra screws and
bits at my finger tips. I think a 4 drawer or 6 drawer Systainer would be a better compliment, although the weight
my be more than I want. Time will tell. ;D :
:-*
ago, I have not used my C12. I have used my T15 in many different ways. Using a paddle mixer,
I have used for mixing tile grout and drywall mud. I no longer have to use my 1/2" B & D HD Drill. The T15 is a great
Drill with power to spare. Thank you for a great product. Have not made up my mind about the Systainer. Yes,
I have dumped everything out, having forgot to latch. I still like the convenience with a some extra screws and
bits at my finger tips. I think a 4 drawer or 6 drawer Systainer would be a better compliment, although the weight
my be more than I want. Time will tell. ;D :
:-*Hi all,
I understand the reluctance to buy a cordless for as much as $635.00 .... FYI, in my country sales tax is 19% ( ouch... ) and the total cost adds up to ?617.
At the current exchange rate, that amounts up to a little over $900 ! I was lucky enough to get a 14% discount but still...
I've been able to use the T15+3 in day to day work for a couple of weeks as well - and I think it was money well spent.
Over the years I've been using all sorts of cordless drills. There are some that I think are worth the money. I had a three speed Bosch "professional" from the early days with a 9.6V NiCd pack that was awesome - the build quality was great, and it did run up to 2900 RPM. It was rather heavy, but that made it stable when using small diameter drills in metal, the max speed made that more than a theoretic possibility. It was well balanced, so I got a little more life out of my small diameter drillbits as well. I've kept it, and one of these days I'm going to have the batterypacks repacked...
But for the most part, cordless drills have been a mixed blessing for me. They were either reasonable quality, but expensive and still not really what I expected, or rather cheap and not so usefull. Strangely enough I've kept a particular DeWalt cordless I got on a massive discount for I've gotten used to it's flaws and I don't mind using the backside as a mallet......
I must admit that I've bought the T15+3 (the set with the extra chucks) along with the new '09 Centrotec accessories-Systainer. When you've got a good part of the options, everything seems to make even more sense.
I can relate to Holzhacker in thinking that the drill shouldn't be bought without the optional chucks - If you can afford the T15+3, chances are that the full set will be more economical. But I think the most valuable option for me is in the basic drill: it's the anti-stupid part, or the save-the-looney's-*ss-part.
Every once in a while I tend to screw up things by cutting one corner too many. I'm sure some of you have been there
For example: I had to mount a couple of rails in a wall that was rather "sensitive". It was a brick wall with a mortar layer and some stucco-related stuff over it. But the mortar was old and quite sandy, so any sudden force would probably result in a big patch coming loose. I drilled the holes with the T15, using a universal drill (basically just a mortar drill with the carbide part grinded sharp).
There was no need for impact or hammering or whatsoever, it would have ruined the hole.I started the drill, got about halfway, and suddenly: "beep-beep" and the drill stoppped. As it turns out, I forgot to switch the drill to drill-mode, and left it in srcew-torque-mode. HAD THIS BEEN THE USUAL RATTLE-CLUTCH, THE HOLE WOULD HAVE BEEN RUINED ! All I had to do was switch to drill-mode and off I got. No problem, one looney's *ss saved.
The power is quite astonishing as well. I used it with a 3" holesaw in some construction plywood, and actually was a bit disappointed.... It would turn, take a couple of mm's out and stop, beeping gently. I tried and retried, and still couldn't get the drill to do this. The 18V Makita LXT I'd been using with this saw had quite a hard time with it as well, but had pulled through without complaints, be it quite a bit hotter then I felt comfortable with. So much for electronic protection, I thought.
Then I moticed that the unloaded speed of the drill was slightly fading as well.... I inserted the other batterypack ( fully loaded ) and the drill almost broke my wrist as the saw got to work..... As it turned out the electronics weren't protecting the drill: they were protecting the batterypack.
I've been installing quite some replacement hinges in doors and windows, and when there's three or more in a part and the size is the same I like to replace them one by one without taking out the part. But that usually involves drilling new holes quite adjacent to the old holes, as the holes in the new hinges rarely are in the same spot.
So you have to screw and pre-drill alternatively, and although I've used the Makita flip-bits extensively, they're no match for the Centrotec system, let alone with the electronic clutch that's only activated in screw-mode.
The fact that the drill throttles down the max speed when using lower torque settings is very helpful as well.
Another BIG plus is the ability to place the drill on it's battery. Even with a 3" hole-saw on a rather long and heavy shaft in the keyless chuck, it wouldn't tip over when placed upright on a flat surface. Believe it or not, I had to get used to this! I'm used to having to lie down a cordless drill - but the ability to have it stand up can really speed up your work, especially when you'd like to keep an eye on the work and don't want to look away to locate your tools.
This is the first drill I feel confident in using when fastening old fashioned slit screws. The lowest speed is awesome and it's really easy to line up a couple of small brass screws in a piano hinge.
No cons then? Of course there are.
I'd like a couple more torque-settings at the lower end, to make the great control this drill offers even more useful. Think installing outlet covers or the like. The lowest torque settings will still easily strip small screw joints in softer materials. A 3 X 20 mm in poplar in 1st gear on the lowest torque setting will just keep spinning...... actual torque in the screw might be lower in 2nd gear, but that just doesn't feel right for tightening sensitive screw joints.
The transmission shift occasionally leaves the shifter a bit shy of the right position, and that doesn't feel right either. It works OK but you still think the gears won't be fully engaged. If this happens you'll have to shift back and forth under rotation to get the shifter to lock in the right position. Not a big problem, but it just doesn't feel Festool-like if you catch my drift. Perhaps it will wear in use.
The left/right button is conveniently placed when you need it, but somewhat too convenient if you don't. It's just a bit too easy to accidentally touch it and leave it somewhere halfway, stopping the drill. It may have something to do with the size of my hand, but I think it would have been better if this switch needed a bit more force to operate.
Bottom line: I think the drill is great. It adapts to my way of doing things, and saves me valuable time in doing so. It has pushed the "user error"-envelope a bit farther out for me.
Yes, it's a sh*tload of money - but I'd buy it again without blinking an eye.
Regards,
Job
I understand the reluctance to buy a cordless for as much as $635.00 .... FYI, in my country sales tax is 19% ( ouch... ) and the total cost adds up to ?617.
At the current exchange rate, that amounts up to a little over $900 ! I was lucky enough to get a 14% discount but still...
I've been able to use the T15+3 in day to day work for a couple of weeks as well - and I think it was money well spent.
Over the years I've been using all sorts of cordless drills. There are some that I think are worth the money. I had a three speed Bosch "professional" from the early days with a 9.6V NiCd pack that was awesome - the build quality was great, and it did run up to 2900 RPM. It was rather heavy, but that made it stable when using small diameter drills in metal, the max speed made that more than a theoretic possibility. It was well balanced, so I got a little more life out of my small diameter drillbits as well. I've kept it, and one of these days I'm going to have the batterypacks repacked...
But for the most part, cordless drills have been a mixed blessing for me. They were either reasonable quality, but expensive and still not really what I expected, or rather cheap and not so usefull. Strangely enough I've kept a particular DeWalt cordless I got on a massive discount for I've gotten used to it's flaws and I don't mind using the backside as a mallet......
I must admit that I've bought the T15+3 (the set with the extra chucks) along with the new '09 Centrotec accessories-Systainer. When you've got a good part of the options, everything seems to make even more sense.
I can relate to Holzhacker in thinking that the drill shouldn't be bought without the optional chucks - If you can afford the T15+3, chances are that the full set will be more economical. But I think the most valuable option for me is in the basic drill: it's the anti-stupid part, or the save-the-looney's-*ss-part.
Every once in a while I tend to screw up things by cutting one corner too many. I'm sure some of you have been there
For example: I had to mount a couple of rails in a wall that was rather "sensitive". It was a brick wall with a mortar layer and some stucco-related stuff over it. But the mortar was old and quite sandy, so any sudden force would probably result in a big patch coming loose. I drilled the holes with the T15, using a universal drill (basically just a mortar drill with the carbide part grinded sharp).
There was no need for impact or hammering or whatsoever, it would have ruined the hole.I started the drill, got about halfway, and suddenly: "beep-beep" and the drill stoppped. As it turns out, I forgot to switch the drill to drill-mode, and left it in srcew-torque-mode. HAD THIS BEEN THE USUAL RATTLE-CLUTCH, THE HOLE WOULD HAVE BEEN RUINED ! All I had to do was switch to drill-mode and off I got. No problem, one looney's *ss saved.
The power is quite astonishing as well. I used it with a 3" holesaw in some construction plywood, and actually was a bit disappointed.... It would turn, take a couple of mm's out and stop, beeping gently. I tried and retried, and still couldn't get the drill to do this. The 18V Makita LXT I'd been using with this saw had quite a hard time with it as well, but had pulled through without complaints, be it quite a bit hotter then I felt comfortable with. So much for electronic protection, I thought.
Then I moticed that the unloaded speed of the drill was slightly fading as well.... I inserted the other batterypack ( fully loaded ) and the drill almost broke my wrist as the saw got to work..... As it turned out the electronics weren't protecting the drill: they were protecting the batterypack.
I've been installing quite some replacement hinges in doors and windows, and when there's three or more in a part and the size is the same I like to replace them one by one without taking out the part. But that usually involves drilling new holes quite adjacent to the old holes, as the holes in the new hinges rarely are in the same spot.
So you have to screw and pre-drill alternatively, and although I've used the Makita flip-bits extensively, they're no match for the Centrotec system, let alone with the electronic clutch that's only activated in screw-mode.
The fact that the drill throttles down the max speed when using lower torque settings is very helpful as well.
Another BIG plus is the ability to place the drill on it's battery. Even with a 3" hole-saw on a rather long and heavy shaft in the keyless chuck, it wouldn't tip over when placed upright on a flat surface. Believe it or not, I had to get used to this! I'm used to having to lie down a cordless drill - but the ability to have it stand up can really speed up your work, especially when you'd like to keep an eye on the work and don't want to look away to locate your tools.
This is the first drill I feel confident in using when fastening old fashioned slit screws. The lowest speed is awesome and it's really easy to line up a couple of small brass screws in a piano hinge.
No cons then? Of course there are.
I'd like a couple more torque-settings at the lower end, to make the great control this drill offers even more useful. Think installing outlet covers or the like. The lowest torque settings will still easily strip small screw joints in softer materials. A 3 X 20 mm in poplar in 1st gear on the lowest torque setting will just keep spinning...... actual torque in the screw might be lower in 2nd gear, but that just doesn't feel right for tightening sensitive screw joints.
The transmission shift occasionally leaves the shifter a bit shy of the right position, and that doesn't feel right either. It works OK but you still think the gears won't be fully engaged. If this happens you'll have to shift back and forth under rotation to get the shifter to lock in the right position. Not a big problem, but it just doesn't feel Festool-like if you catch my drift. Perhaps it will wear in use.
The left/right button is conveniently placed when you need it, but somewhat too convenient if you don't. It's just a bit too easy to accidentally touch it and leave it somewhere halfway, stopping the drill. It may have something to do with the size of my hand, but I think it would have been better if this switch needed a bit more force to operate.
Bottom line: I think the drill is great. It adapts to my way of doing things, and saves me valuable time in doing so. It has pushed the "user error"-envelope a bit farther out for me.
Yes, it's a sh*tload of money - but I'd buy it again without blinking an eye.
Regards,
Job
Nice review Job
I have been sitting on the fence for a while over this drill. I know it will be the best drill i have ever bought but that price ticket has been holding me back. Must say i am starting to lean over to the black & green side now & will prob order soon. Does anyone have & use the additional drywall chuck for any of the festool drills. If so, are they worth the money or are you just as well to buy cheap drywall tips with depth collars on ? Would prob get the chuck for my c12 if they are any good.
Cheers, Woodguy.
I have been sitting on the fence for a while over this drill. I know it will be the best drill i have ever bought but that price ticket has been holding me back. Must say i am starting to lean over to the black & green side now & will prob order soon. Does anyone have & use the additional drywall chuck for any of the festool drills. If so, are they worth the money or are you just as well to buy cheap drywall tips with depth collars on ? Would prob get the chuck for my c12 if they are any good.
Cheers, Woodguy.
Brice Burrell
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jvsteenb said:
Job, I have two T15s and I've not had transmission stick between gears (yet), I've gotten this on other drills but not the T15s.
Holesaws tend to be pretty hard on cordless drills, while your Makita didn't complain it was suffering in silence. The T15s are bit underpowered for using holesaws, that's not a know on the drill, all be the larger cordless drill don't do well with holessaws.
I guess Festool offers the T series without the chucks for the people that already the C12 with the chucks and want to upgrade.
woodguy7 said:
Woodguy, I've got two of the depth stops chucks (drywall chucks). They work fairly well in other materials too, like cement board, wood and other sheet goods where a drywall screwgun doesn't always work well with. Works great with drywall. There is a small learning curve to using the depth stop, the tip has some wobble so you need to get a feel for the technique so you don't lose the screw before its sunk. It you don't a lot of drywall a dedicated screwgun might be a better choice where the depth stops works a little better on other materials.
Brice,
Thanks for that. I have a 14volt makita screw gun but thought this chuck would be better for occasional use. I presume you can change the tips when they wear out. Are the tips standard Festool ones or super duper expensive ones
Thanks, Woodguy.
Thanks for that. I have a 14volt makita screw gun but thought this chuck would be better for occasional use. I presume you can change the tips when they wear out. Are the tips standard Festool ones or super duper expensive ones
Thanks, Woodguy.
Brice Burrell
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Yes you can change them out and they are the standard bits.
woodguy7 said:Brice,
Thanks for that. I have a 14volt makita screw gun but thought this chuck would be better for occasional use. I presume you can change the tips when they wear out. Are the tips standard Festool ones or super duper expensive ones
Thanks, Woodguy.
Brice,
Thanks for the comment. As it is, the gearshift-thing is of little concern to me and I wouldn't be supprised if it would wear away in use. Should it get any worse there's always Festool warranty to back it up.
For the holesaw: with a fresh batterypack the drill actually pulled the 3" saw seemingly effortless - no more stalls and beeps. Despite the lower actual voltage it outperformed the Makita 18v LXT I had used before with this saw, and it certainly stayed a lot cooler. It was my wrist that suffered, for somehow one doesn't expect this amount of torque from a drill with such a relatively small form factor. But there's power in spades, and then some....
Regards,
Job
Thanks for the comment. As it is, the gearshift-thing is of little concern to me and I wouldn't be supprised if it would wear away in use. Should it get any worse there's always Festool warranty to back it up.
For the holesaw: with a fresh batterypack the drill actually pulled the 3" saw seemingly effortless - no more stalls and beeps. Despite the lower actual voltage it outperformed the Makita 18v LXT I had used before with this saw, and it certainly stayed a lot cooler. It was my wrist that suffered, for somehow one doesn't expect this amount of torque from a drill with such a relatively small form factor. But there's power in spades, and then some....
Regards,
Job
AlexThePalex
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woodguy7 said:Are the tips standard Festool ones or super duper expensive ones
There's a difference ? ???
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I used the drill on friday with my kwikset hole saw jig for boring doors, 2 1/8 hole through a piece of 1 1'2 popular. it did very well. my bit is carbide, but overall was very pleased with the drill. 
Brice Burrell
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Alex said:woodguy7 said:Are the tips standard Festool ones or super duper expensive ones
There's a difference ? ???
There is, the extra cost is for the special coating to improve the bits grip. The regular Philips bits cost $10 USD for 10 bits, the HiQ bits cost $10 USD for 3 bits. I have a pack of the HiQ bits but haven't yet tried them out, I try to remember to report back when I get around to using them.
Brice Burrell
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honeydokreg said:I used the drill on friday with my kwikset hole saw jig for boring doors, 2 1/8 hole through a piece of 1 1'2 popular. it did very well. my bit is carbide, but overall was very pleased with the drill.
Just last week I used my T15 to drill for eight soffit vents with a 2 1/8" holesaw. It worked but if I were going to drill more holes I would have chucked up a corded drill.
Warning slightly off topic:
I once used a brand new 4" holesaw with a large right angle drill for a few recessed light cans in 7/16" OSB. I thought I was prepared for the jolt when the holesaw was going to bite into the OSB, wrong. The force was so strong threw me into the wall and almost knocked me off the step ladder I was on. In the process it shattered the pilot bit into a dozen or so pieces. Never use a dull pilot bit and large, sharp holesaw. ;D
Is this because you could destroy/overload the T15+3 or because this kind of use will tend to wear it out to soon?
I just bought a Protool DRC18-4 Li ion for this kind of work. My T15+3 is now "degraded" to be a screw driver drill only.
BTW, I am from Norway and have just been declared a tool freak and Festomaniac by my colleagues at work...
Now I own a T15+3, TS55EBQ with rails and other assecories, a CTL Cleantex 26, lots of dirrefent systainers and now a Protool DRC 18-4 as well. But when it came to jig saw I purchased a Bosch GST135 instead of the Festo PS300. (ok bad judgement maybe, but the Bosch actually performs very well)
I just bought a Protool DRC18-4 Li ion for this kind of work. My T15+3 is now "degraded" to be a screw driver drill only.
BTW, I am from Norway and have just been declared a tool freak and Festomaniac by my colleagues at work...
Now I own a T15+3, TS55EBQ with rails and other assecories, a CTL Cleantex 26, lots of dirrefent systainers and now a Protool DRC 18-4 as well. But when it came to jig saw I purchased a Bosch GST135 instead of the Festo PS300. (ok bad judgement maybe, but the Bosch actually performs very well)
Brice Burrell
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Roar welcome to the FOG. I don't think the T-15 will overwork itself, the electronics will protect the drill. It's more of a matter of working more efficiently with a corded drill made for heavy duty work.
roar said:I
BTW, I am from Norway and have just been declared a tool freak and Festomaniac by my colleagues at work...
Just wait, soon you'll end up with everything Festool, it will be expensive
Btw we are diskussing Festool in Swedish at http://www.byggahus.se/forum/verktyg-maskiner-fordon/
AlexThePalex
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Brice Burrell said:Alex said:woodguy7 said:Are the tips standard Festool ones or super duper expensive ones
There's a difference ? ???
There is, the extra cost is for the special coating to improve the bits grip. The regular Philips bits cost $10 USD for 10 bits, the HiQ bits cost $10 USD for 3 bits. I have a pack of the HiQ bits but haven't yet tried them out, I try to remember to report back when I get around to using them.
Ah I see, the more expensive ones probably have a diamond coating. Better switch to them right away Brice, they work sooooo much better because the grip is better. I use diamond bits of Wera, don't know if you have them in the US, but here they're the top of the pops. They're not centrotec compatible of course.
roar said:But when it came to jig saw I purchased a Bosch GST135 instead of the Festo PS300. (ok bad judgement maybe, but the Bosch actually performs very well)
Welcome to the forum roar. But having a Bosch isn't bad judgement at all, it's actually good judgement. From a lot of posts I read the Bosch jigsaws are close to the best you can get and better than the Festools. A lot of people have complaints about the Festool jigsaws.
chrisrosenb
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woodguy7 said:
You made the right choice. I have both Bosch & Festool jigsaws & I prefer the Festool jigsaws.
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