Rip 8mm X 8mm strips from narrow stock

Jmacpherson

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I need to rip 32/44mm X 8mm meranti down to 8mmX8mm in various lengths ranging between 400mm - 1200mm.
This is to replace window beading, I cannot purchase it in this size.
I also need the same 8mm X 19mm wide meranti too but lets deal with the 8x8 for this topic.

I have a TS55 and MFT/3 table. No table saw and no band saw, none of my friends do either. The wood shops around here have huge panel saw and smallest they can do is 20mm wide.
I don't have the above tools due to space.

Option 1: Attempt to use TS55/MFT3 length ways
Some how clamp the narrow stock between parf dogs on one side, cut smaller pieces of the meranti on mitre saw to act as stops (picture an H) and guide rail supports, use more long pieces and then use MFT fence on the other side as additional clamp.
Will this cause any binding due to pressure? Doubt it in such small stock but repeat ability might be and issue and once you make your first cut have to adjust everything after each and every cut.

Option 2: Purchase table saw
I've put this off for so long and I've looked at the Dewalt DW745 which is compact and gets good reviews.
Should be easier than option 1?

Option 3: The expensive CMS route, long term investment

Get the CMS base and insert for TS55. More expensive route but will be same height as my MFT3 so already have infeed/outfeed support etc. I don't have a router table so this gives me that option down the road and CMS takes up less space than Dewalt.
Or in terms of safety what about the Trion insert, could I use the CMS/Trion combo with the CMS fence like a bandsaw since I'm working with such thin stock or would the TS55 be the better option if I go the expensive route?
 
I know you probably don't want to make the investment, but a table saw is your best bet for this type of repetitive cutting.  I use one of these Infinity small rip guides (https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-accessories/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig) when cutting strips for edge banding, beading, etc.  It's beauty is that you set it on the left side of the blade to the dimension you want, and then keep moving the stock against the fence closer to the blade on each pass.  Keeps the cutoff you need on the outside of the blade.
 
My understanding is that the meranti stock is already 8 mm thick and you just want to cut strips of 8 mm width off that.

Find some other stock that is 8 mm thick that is about the width of a Festool track. Then use some double sided tape to attach your meranti to that. Trim off the multiple 8 mm strips until you have used up that piece of meranti then repeat the process.

If my original assumption is wrong please let me know and I will re-work my answer.

Peter
 
Peter Parfitt said:
My understanding is that the meranti stock is already 8 mm thick and you just want to cut strips of 8 mm width off that.

Find some other stock that is 8 mm thick that is about the width of a Festool track. Then use some double sided tape to attach your meranti to that. Trim off the multiple 8 mm strips until you have used up that piece of meranti then repeat the process.

If my original assumption is wrong please let me know and I will re-work my answer.

Peter

Your are spot on Peter :) Unfortunately the 8mm meranti stock is 44mm at its widest so I would have to come up with some sort of figure of eight support shape or just tape multiple strips next to one another length ways, would that be sufficient support?
 
fignewton said:
I know you probably don't want to make the investment, but a table saw is your best bet for this type of repetitive cutting.  I use one of these Infinity small rip guides (https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-accessories/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig) when cutting strips for edge banding, beading, etc.  It's beauty is that you set it on the left side of the blade to the dimension you want, and then keep moving the stock against the fence closer to the blade on each pass.  Keeps the cutoff you need on the outside of the blade.

Thanks for the link [member=59909]fignewton[/member], I'll see if they'll ship internationally if I go the tsaw route or find a similar product. Makes the thin rip process a whole lot safe. Whether I like it or not at some point I'll have to buy a tsaw just for the convenience.
 
fignewton said:
I know you probably don't want to make the investment, but a table saw is your best bet for this type of repetitive cutting.  I use one of these Infinity small rip guides (https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-blades-accessories/table-saw/table-saw-accessories/thin-rip-tablesaw-jig) when cutting strips for edge banding, beading, etc.  It's beauty is that you set it on the left side of the blade to the dimension you want, and then keep moving the stock against the fence closer to the blade on each pass.  Keeps the cutoff you need on the outside of the blade.
I would just setup the fence so it ends directly behind the area where the blade tooth do the cutting, set it to width once and do the cuts - instead of combining the downside of a fence extending to behind the blade (possible binding of the workpiece between blade and fence) with having to readjust it after each and every cut.
 
Get a small tablesaw like the DeWalt DW745 (corded) or DCS7485T1 (cordless). Both are compact and are perfect for ripping small pieces of stock. You will have to make a custom push stick at that narrow width for repeatability.
 
Jmacpherson said:
Your are spot on Peter :) Unfortunately the 8mm meranti stock is 44mm at its widest so I would have to come up with some sort of figure of eight support shape or just tape multiple strips next to one another length ways, would that be sufficient support?

I would do it and take it carefully until fully confident ! I have used double sided tape in far more demanding situations and it has worked just fine. Just make sure that you have eye protection and that you do not do anything silly.

Peter
 
If you have enough strips to get to the full rail width, or near it, Peter's method should work fine.
I recently did some narrow ripping with my track saw and used a similar method, and it worked out nicely.
If you have the time and money, a tablesaw would be better, but it's not essential.
 
I also think a table saw is a very important tool in the workshop and agree that it does not need to be too sophisticated. However, I think the OP was after a quick solution and maybe is not ready to make a decision on a table saw.

Peter
 
For narrow rips, I use the PA-TS 55 (491469) which is quickly attached and gives you the ability to have repeatable results.

You are changing use/waste sides, since the part you want to keep will be ok the right side of the blade...

And as @Peter Parfitt pointed out, using double sided tape to secure your wood works well. Just be sure to take your time and keep calm and steady on the cuts..
 
Thanks for the input everyone.
I'm going to try what Peter suggested on the mft3 and see how I get on etc.
I also got my power tool dealership to quote me on a Dewalt dw745 so I'm keeping my options open :) and not closing that door.

I did discuss the CMS route with my salesman and in his words = "very expensive narrow wood strips"  [tongue]
The bare base is more or less what the dw745 will cost me.
The insert must still be factored in but add in all the extra supports and the costs ramp up very quickly.

The CMS is smaller, lighter, seems to have better dust extraction and is the same height as my MFT which I can use as a support.
I have an HKC so leaving the TS55 mounted permanently isn't the end of the world.

The DW745 has a better fence from what I can tell, larger table surface and can handle wider cuts by default - no extra costs.
It is only slightly bigger than CMS. Has built in T-groove which allows for add-ons like the short-rip guide posted earlier, better mitre gauge/fence later at a much lower cost than Festool accessories. More powerful than the TS55.

Am I missing something or overlooking something?

 
Attach a circular saw to a board and plunge the blade through. Flip it upside down and screw a rip fence to the board.  If the only cut you need to make is 8mm it's a very simple jig to make.
 
"Am I missing something or overlooking something? "

Can't tell if you read the thread Tom linked to. If you didn't then you are missing something...

His method, while more time consuming than using a table saw, is safer.
 
I've made jigs for cutting narrow strips using my track saw. And, I've created some animations that illustrate their use that you can see on my YouTube page:

These jigs were easy for me to make and simple to setup for use.
 
Jmacpherson said:
I did discuss the CMS route with my salesman and in his words = "very expensive narrow wood strips"  [tongue]
The bare base is more or less what the dw745 will cost me....
...The DW745 has a better fence from what I can tell, larger table surface and can handle wider cuts by default - no extra costs.
It is only slightly bigger than CMS. Has built in T-groove which allows for add-ons like the short-rip guide posted earlier, better mitre gauge/fence later at a much lower cost than Festool accessories. More powerful than the TS55.

Am I missing something or overlooking something?
Well, not quite. The DW745 has a groove in the top, NOT a T-slot (or am I reading that wrong?), and the mitre gauge is really only so-so - TBH for mitre cuts you'd be way better off with a mitre saw - but it has bags of power and will cut 8mm strips all day long repeatedly, accurately and fast. Quite frankly my TS55, rails and parallel device is totally unsuitable for this task and I wouldn't even think about using it that way. Maybe it's a case of when all you have is a hammer? (then everything else is a nail)

lwoirhaye said:
Attach a circular saw to a board and plunge the blade through. Flip it upside down and screw a rip fence to the board.  If the only cut you need to make is 8mm it's a very simple jig to make.
Another solution I've adopted out on site when I haven't had the rip saw (DW745) with me. The blade is unguarded, but it does do the job
 
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