festoolfan1000
Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2007
- Messages
- 41
I have spent a great deal of time thinking and designing rail positioning gauges to meet the unique challenges my shop (11X18ft with a 6' 8" ceiling) and business provide. Johne's beautifully simple gauges (http://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?topic=3341.0) provide much of the inspiration for the design that follows, with some changes.
I run a small remodelling business, focusing on millwork and cabinetry (if I could make a decent living do just this I would.) I quickly realized a couple of things soon after purchasing the Festool system with regards to the guide rail:
1. The guide rail splinter guard works well when freshly cut, as a positioning tool but too slow to be economically practical.
2. The splinter guard does not last very long once cut (particularly when working with PB core laminate sheet goods.) So as to make using it for both of its intended purposes useless (I?m working on the longevity of the splinter protection.) Again this lack of exact splinter protection is really only an issue with PB core laminate sheet goods or when trying to use it to align the guide rail.
As such I am inclined to leave the splinter guard in place (as is) whenever possible (i.e. when not working with PB core laminates); this would mean I would need a method of placing the guide rail in the correct position without relying on it.
The following gauges are probably a version 6 or 7 of the line of designs I have. They have the following benefits (possibly more):
1. They are very economical to manufacture and parts are readily available
2. They are easy to manufacture and require no critical measurements (though some precision is required in making them)
3. They can be zeroed exactly to the left OR right of the blade
4. They can be used to position the rail with the off cut either under or to the right of the guide rail (as per normal Festool convention) Which means they can be used to perform rips cuts as narrow as 30mm (or narrower with a spacer block or re-design of the stop rest.)
5. They are small and lightweight, and are easily removed out of the way (at one time considered a drawback but now I think it is mandatory in my tiny space, a 118? guide with permanently installed gauges was just to unwieldy.)
6. Only one needs to be set to the tape the second can simply ?copy? the length
7. They are self contained and with the exception of the zeroing accessories (known width of wood) require no other tools to use (assuming a minimum desired rip of 30mm)
8. Loved Johne?s idea of a simple friction mount but wanted something that would continue to provide friction so I added "cam" screws (like the Incra mitre bar does)
9. They eliminate measuring and marking
10. They work
They have the following draw backs (possibly more):
1. They must be removed prior to making a cut (this is actually no longer considered a drawback by me, see point 5 above.)
2. Milling of small wooden parts during manufacture can be tricky
3. I loved Johne's idea of being able to use his design as story sticks to match an existing cut piece of wood. I believe it is possible to make these units work this way but I have not figured that out yet.
4. It must be re zeroed when switching the off cut from left to right of the rail
I have added photos below of the finished design and product. Please feel free to critique and or provides tips on how these can be improved. The measurements on the design are how they worked for my unit I can't promise they will be exact to your gear. PLEASE confirm them if you decide to make these.
Cheers,
Michael
I run a small remodelling business, focusing on millwork and cabinetry (if I could make a decent living do just this I would.) I quickly realized a couple of things soon after purchasing the Festool system with regards to the guide rail:
1. The guide rail splinter guard works well when freshly cut, as a positioning tool but too slow to be economically practical.
2. The splinter guard does not last very long once cut (particularly when working with PB core laminate sheet goods.) So as to make using it for both of its intended purposes useless (I?m working on the longevity of the splinter protection.) Again this lack of exact splinter protection is really only an issue with PB core laminate sheet goods or when trying to use it to align the guide rail.
As such I am inclined to leave the splinter guard in place (as is) whenever possible (i.e. when not working with PB core laminates); this would mean I would need a method of placing the guide rail in the correct position without relying on it.
The following gauges are probably a version 6 or 7 of the line of designs I have. They have the following benefits (possibly more):
1. They are very economical to manufacture and parts are readily available
2. They are easy to manufacture and require no critical measurements (though some precision is required in making them)
3. They can be zeroed exactly to the left OR right of the blade
4. They can be used to position the rail with the off cut either under or to the right of the guide rail (as per normal Festool convention) Which means they can be used to perform rips cuts as narrow as 30mm (or narrower with a spacer block or re-design of the stop rest.)
5. They are small and lightweight, and are easily removed out of the way (at one time considered a drawback but now I think it is mandatory in my tiny space, a 118? guide with permanently installed gauges was just to unwieldy.)
6. Only one needs to be set to the tape the second can simply ?copy? the length
7. They are self contained and with the exception of the zeroing accessories (known width of wood) require no other tools to use (assuming a minimum desired rip of 30mm)
8. Loved Johne?s idea of a simple friction mount but wanted something that would continue to provide friction so I added "cam" screws (like the Incra mitre bar does)
9. They eliminate measuring and marking
10. They work
They have the following draw backs (possibly more):
1. They must be removed prior to making a cut (this is actually no longer considered a drawback by me, see point 5 above.)
2. Milling of small wooden parts during manufacture can be tricky
3. I loved Johne's idea of being able to use his design as story sticks to match an existing cut piece of wood. I believe it is possible to make these units work this way but I have not figured that out yet.
4. It must be re zeroed when switching the off cut from left to right of the rail
I have added photos below of the finished design and product. Please feel free to critique and or provides tips on how these can be improved. The measurements on the design are how they worked for my unit I can't promise they will be exact to your gear. PLEASE confirm them if you decide to make these.
Cheers,
Michael
