Ripping 50 degree bevel with TS55?

chris mann

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Joined
Jan 22, 2007
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Anyone have thoughts on how to do this?  I thought about making some 5 degree wedges to put under the guiderail, but the boards I have to put this bevel on are 62 inches long; so I'm a bit worried about the guiderail deflecting.

I could rip one bevel at 45 and the other at 55 if that helps. And this is in 1/2" MDO.

-chris
 
b-m-hart,

nice try!, but if you think about it, that won't make 50 degrees, if you could stand the board on edge and cut at 40 degrees.... but that's hardly practical.

Chris,

Any way you can make this joint with a slim insert in the corner? presumably you're trying to end up with a corner joint at 100 degrees?

if you make your cut at 25 degrees, and make a slim insert for the corner cut at 25 degrees both sides. the insert would be at 50 degrees across the corner (which would split the angle).

Failing that, you didn't mention if your material is faced with anything, but if you could live with an exposed end, you could simply cut one edge at 10 degrees and butt joint that edge to the other piece (will give you a joint of 100 degrees).

Steve
 
Why a 5 degree wedge? Why not a 30 degree wedge, and then set the saw at 20 degrees? You could easily cut a 30 degree wedge (a long rip) with the saw, place it under the guide rail, on top of the stock, and then do your 20 degree (which would now be 50 degree) cut.

Are you sure your blade's diameter is large enough to go all the way through the stock? I've had problems with this. I finally ended up doing the long bevel on my bandsaw, and then sanding it. Worked great!

 
Actually if you needed a 50 degree cut you'd set your saw to 40 degree. If you what to set your saw to 50 degree then you really want a 40 degree cut. I know it sounds confusing, but when it comes to circular saw or compound miters you are always cutting the complement of the angle you set the scale to. Just a bit of useless info to toss out there  ;D
 
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