ripping a live edge slab

L

lenick01

Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
3
I'm looking for some pointers on how to rip a 3 inch thick live edge slab.  I have a 10 foot long slab that's destined to become a dining room table.  Unfortunately, it's not wide enough per my significant other.  I'm planning on ripping it down the middle and essentially making a panel out of it by gluing in another foot wide 3 inch slab in the middle.

I thought about using a table saw but I think it would be nearly impossible due to the weight and size.  I have a TS 55 but won't get through the full thickness - maybe making a cut and then flipping it over?  I'm worried that I won't line up the 2 cuts properly.  Of course this might be an excuse to get a TS 75....

Any tips would be appreciated!

Mike
 
A TS 75 on the guide rail will only go 70mm deep. That's 75mm - 5mm for the guide rail. It's about 2-3/4".

A Trion or Carvex with a 140mm blade and guide stop can do the job if the blade guides are set up properly.

Tom
 
When I have done this with my 75 i always flipped it and had small amounts of plaining to get a nice joint.
 
Since we cannot get sword saws here in the states, has anyone looked into the prazi sword saw add on.  You can install it on most worm drive circular saws.  Other than that, you need a big beam saw.
 
You could rip it with your ts55. Then true up the cuts using a router and a strait edge guide. just use a 2" strait cutter with the strait edge, then flip it over and use a bottom ball bearing bit that's long enough to ride along the freshly cut edge to finish off the rest of the face.
 
If I have to cut a thick piece from both sides to make it through and the cuts don't line up, its because I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention to which side of the pencil line the blade was supposed to go. Very rare since that mistake really pisses me off.
Take your time you can do this.
Draw your line on the top side, transfer down to the bottom side with a square for reference but don't actually draw the bottom line, cut the top side, draw and adjust your bottom pencil line based on how your top cut ended up running, cut away;
The key is to pay attention to blade position to the pencil line or guide rail position to your lines; unless you are an idiot (you are on the FOG so I'm assuming you can't be) you aren't going to screw it up drawing your pencil line, its a positioning issue
So often people don't think about the fact that your blade can end up centered on your pencil line or to the left or right of the pencil line; this also holds true for guide rail clamping, minute differences make a clean cut or ridged cut
You can use the 55 and a Trion with a long blade. That works fine but you should use your 55 on the top side and let the Trion cut the bottom. Depending on how well or not you cut using this combo there may be a lot more work in flattening the sides to mate the insert piece. Mating is another story though
On the other hand its an excuse to buy a 75 and then cut the last 1/4" with a good handsaw
 
I would jigsaw it then use router with straight edge and spiral bit to straighten edge (if you don't have some combo of guide rails to give you 10 ft. of length).  Just make sure the edge is as square as possible to the other sides.  After you fit in the board though, you will probably have to do the same operation on the ends, meaning you could leave the middle piece long on both ends because you know you will be trimming the edge afterwards.
 
A Trion or Carvex jigsaw with  S145/4 FSG, 499478, will do this in one pass using the guide stop. It has to be set up properly and use the max orbital.

It makes a nice, perpendicular cut 4"+ deep in hardwoods.

Tom
 
Why the guide stop?

Tom Bellemare said:
A Trion or Carvex jigsaw with  S145/4 FSG, 499478, will do this in one pass using the guide stop. It has to be set up properly and use the max orbital.

It makes a nice, perpendicular cut 4"+ deep in hardwoods.

Tom
Click to expand...
 
Got it.  For some reason I thought you meant those stops that you hook into the rail to prevent the tool from going past a certain point.

Tom Bellemare said:
It runs on the guide rail and keeps the cut running straight.

Tom
Click to expand...
 
Probably just a translation issue.  The limit stop is the Rückschlagstop (literally kickback stop), and the guide stop is the Führungsanschlag, where -anschlag in this technical sense also gets translated as "stop."

Tom Bellemare said:
It's odd wording but that's what Festool calls them...

Tom
Click to expand...
 
What does that piece weigh? Just amazed by the idea of flipping it over or even getting it into position to work with.
 
I would use the table saw for sure. But possibly you only have a little bench top table saw? With a proper out feed table its not a big deal at all.
 
" I'm worried that I won't line up the 2 cuts properly. "

You got this buddy, no worries u da man.  [thumbs up]
 
Some really good pointers for cutting thick wood.
Not to get off subject but where do you guys get your live edge timber?
Sean
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Seeking your ideas for: A) Slab desk and B) Small Night Table
2
Replies
39
Views
2K
onocoffee
O
R
Domino DF500 Table Apron with a larger reveal
Replies
11
Views
24K
smorgasbord
S
G
newbie to a tablesaw, planning on getting the CSC SYS 50
Replies
10
Views
1K
squall_line
S
S
Finally did it...
Replies
17
Views
2K
Crazyraceguy
Crazyraceguy
S
Attaching Woodpecker Slab Mill to MFTs?
Replies
9
Views
14K
squall_line
S
Back
Top