Ripping Narrow Stock

[Steve F]

Steve,

I don't understand why you are using a low angle jack plane in this situation. If you are experiencing tear-out, you need to raise the angle not lower it? Am I missing something? I would go straight to a very finely set #8- so fine that only dust is coming off the first few passes. Then after a couple of very thin full-width shavings, I would ignore the tear-out and go straight to glue-up. Unless the tear-out is so severe that you can see visible gaps along the glue-line, why worry? Over an almost 2-inch wide panel width, the joint will be plenty strong enough.

Again, if I am wide of the mark, let me know.

Thanks Richard.  I love your suggestion of ignoring the tear out as long as I can get the joints tight enough.  I just didn't want the thing coming apart after a few months of use.

The only reason I used my Low Angle Jack is because it's the only plane I have with a toothed blade.  I usually find that the toothed blade is the best solution to tear out.  When I used the #8 to get rid of the tooth marks and flatten the edges, I did set it up as you suggest with the mouth really tight and the cap iron very close.  But, as soon as I get close to a full length shaving, the tear out starts because of the reversing grain.  The only way I can get rid of the remaining tear out is to attack it with a #3 (really sharp and really light) from both sides.

Thanks again for the advice.  I have a late night tonight, but will try my first glue up tomorrow and see how it goes.

Steve

 

[jhark123]

I don't understand how a carpenter could not have a table saw.

 

[knight joinery]

I don't understand how a carpenter could not have a table saw.

Amen to that!