Ripping sheet goods

[myer84]

Here’s a question for the pros out there. So, I’m looking for ideas on how to rip down sheet goods at a fast pace with accuracy. I know I have the option of buying a long rail to cover the length of a board; however, not in my budget at the moment.

I do however, have two 55” rails and able to join them, but I then deal with alignment issues and my cuts are never the same width from one end to the other. I also have the Incra and rip dogs guide rail system, but I still run into alignment issues. My initial cuts are good, but when I’m doing repetitive cuts, I tend to loose that alignment at some point causing my final cuts to be slightly off.

I was wondering if there is something out there similar to the Kreg rip cut jig for the TS55. I have the jig and can try to adapt it to my saw and test it out, but I would like to know if there are options out there that are made for our saws that I can try.

Just looking for ideas. Thanks.

 

[sancho57]

Ive never had a issue joining 2 55" guide rails together. Do you butt the rails up to each other? I usually leave a small gap maybe 1/16, I use the ts 55 to align the rails slide the saw in the middle of the joint and tighten the gibs down on the saw (little green knobs) tight the guide rail connectors the readj the saws gibs easy peasey

 

[SoonerFan]

When connecting two rails, I leave a little gap and then align the rails with a 4 foot level.  I never have any problems at all.  As Jobsworth said, easy peasy.

 

[semenza]

When using the Rip Dog parallel guides make sure they are calibrated and set exactly the same (each guide scale). Also make sure when placing them against the piece that they are both actually touching the edge. And check the setting at intervals to make sure the stop hasn't crept with each successive butting against the work piece edge. I had one not tightened enough once and it was introducing a slight bit more error each time I positioned the guide against the work piece.

Seth

 

[Stone Message]

Joining two rails works as long as you ensure that they are straight when you tighten up the grub screws and then treat the joined pair with care.

One or two of my professional friends use saws costing up to $40,000 for cutting sheet goods but those that cannot afford that sort of luxury do what I do....

Make a thin cut along a long edge in order to produce a clean reference edge. Having worked out the cutting plan for the job then do the next long cut by measuring from that reference edge in two places at opposite ends of the sheet - handle a joined pair of rails carefully.

Then use your tracksaw cutting station to get near CNC accurate cross cuts and trim cuts. The tracksaw cutting station is a piece of MDF with a series of 20 mm holes where the rows and columns are at perfect right angles. It can be upto a whole sheet in size or even as small as the top of your MFT3. It has to be made very accurately.

Peter

 

[Davesbuildtips]

Hi there myer84. I have a few 1400 rails and tried every trick in the book to get them joint perfect when connected, even using a 1.8 metre level behind the rails to keep straight as I tightened the screws but as you say, there was some degree, no matter how minute, error would creep in. I ended up frustrated and bit the bullet, bought a 2.7 metre rail and have never looked back. It cost me a bomb but as I say to people, "buy once, cry once". The longest cut I make is 2.4 metres (8 x 4 feet ply or melamine) so the 2.7 gives me 200mm approach to the sheet good and 100mm exit.
Other's ideas mentioned here are good but I went the 2.7 metre rail and never looked back. I may find something further down the track that amazes me and if I do, as always I will do a video on it as I did on Peter's UJK Parf guide system.

 

[bulubuluplopplop]

I have also unsatisfying results with the Festool FSV connector.
I just use a long 3 metre aluminum straightedge (the profiles used for concrete, not sure how its called) to move the 1400 rail along, and it works fine.
The straightedge is fixed to the panel with clamps.

 

[DynaGlide]

I didn't bother with the Festool rail connectors I bought the Makita. Better design. Worth a look. Sedge had a video on aligning rails using your track saw base.

 

[ben_r_]

Ive been using the Festool connectors to join two 55" LR32 rails with the Betterley Straightline Connector with great results. However that said, seeing as how it cost about $280 for that setup and a 106" guide rail is $340, I think if I were to do it again I would have just paid the extra for the longer rail. In fact I will probably end up selling that setup and picking up the single long rail sometime in the future.

 

[BMH]

I had two 55" rails I connected with the festool system. Leave a little gap between the rails and use a good long straight edge, Stabila level. It is important to tighten the screw symmetrically. I would be off on average 1-1.5 mm on a 8 foot cut. You have to check the rail after a number of cuts to make sure they are still parallel.

Then I bought a 2700 rail. Best decision ever, it has paid for itself on my first project. I can't believe it took me 5 years before I bought it. You add rapid clamp 489790 and/or 493507 with parallel guide and you are breaking down sheet goods at an amazing speed. 

 

[myer84]

Thank you all for the quick reponses. I know many of you are successful when joining two rails and maintaining great accuracy; however, I like David have tried many ways to get both rails aligned without success. Maybe the first cut or two come out well, but after that it seems like the rail connection starts loosing its alignment.

I know that a long rail will solve this issue, and will start considering its purchase, but won’t be for a while.

 

[sancho57]

You may get some error while using the 2 connected 1400 rails. But you have to ask yer self what is acceptable error? Even machinist Blue Prints have standard tolerancesnoted on the prints.

So what is acceptable tolerance is 1.5 mm out over 2400mm or 2.0 mm out over 2400mm? Unless your using a $40,000 aldendorf or feldner those are pretty good and acceptable tolerances.

Wood expands and contracts more then that and its more accurate then what I used to get from my table saw. Some guys think theyre building the space shuttle but they are not they are cutting wood and wood products.

Yes I did get the 3000mm rail, but it wasnt because of accuracy it was because Im a Klutz and Ill join the rails make a few cuts, then take them apart put the one up and realize Oh snap I forgot to cut this piece and have to reassemble the rails again.o that a few times and youll understand.

Now with the longer rail I just grab it off the shelf and Charlie Mike

But other then that I was getting acceptable cuts within my acceptable tolerances. 

 

[TheSergeant]

Throw out your Festool Rail Connectors.  They're garbage.  You can make a set of 18" expanding connectors for ~$20.  The fit is much better and then don't creep, strip out or mar your guide rail. 

Here's a link:http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-guide-rail-connectors-(not-your-typical-ones)/

 

[semenza]

@meyer84 Is it a taper from one end to the other or bow in the center or something other?  How far off?  I am not sure it is necessarily the rail connecting that is the problem.

Seth

 

[waho6o9]

To avoid lateral inconsistencies I place a support about half way when ripping sheet goods.

The extra time it takes to set things up is worth the effort, YMMV

View attachment 1

 

[myer84]

Both, but mostly tapered. I’ve been off on one end by 1/8 a 1/4” when ripping a sheet of 4x8

To avoid lateral inconsistencies I place a support about half way when ripping sheet goods.

The extra time it takes to set things up is worth the effort, YMMV

View attachment 1

 

[Sparktrician]

Ive been using the Festool connectors to join two 55" LR32 rails with the Betterley Straightline Connector with great results.

Same here.  Wish I'd have had the foresight to buy "holey" rails vs. the standard rails.  In any case, straight cuts are not a challenge. 

 

[gnlman]

Hi. Use Makita rail connectors, they are longer and remain more accurate when moving the rails, as you can tighten them without damaging the rails... I also purchased a betterly rail connector. I am just a home hobbyist, so having an extra piece for the odd time I have to join rails is not an issue I still check with a 6 foot stabila level just in case....not sure what the betterly cost now, but I think around a hundred bucks...lots cheaper than a longer rail.
Greg

 

[semenza]

Both, but mostly tapered. I’ve been off on one end by 1/8 a 1/4” when ripping a sheet of 4x8

To avoid lateral inconsistencies I place a support about half way when ripping sheet goods.

The extra time it takes to set things up is worth the effort, YMMV

View attachment 1

OK, on the tapered from one end to the other a 1/4" is  lot. In that particular case I think something other than the rail connection is going on. Especially since a taper due to rail misalignment would only occur from the rail connection point to the end not over the entire length.

Seth

 

[myer84]

I’m going to order the Makita rail connectors and use my saw to align both rails just as suggested by jobsworth. Hopefully this solves my alignment issues.