RO 150 and ETS EC 125 for resin tables

[Montag]

Hi I am new to making epoxy resin/wood tables and wanted to get your guys thoughts. After they are poured I bring them to a local guy who CNC them for me. What I’ve been previously doing is starting at 80 grit with my random orbital and working up to 180 but the 80 grit phase takes quite some time. Do you think it would be worth it to get a RO150 for that 80 grit stage to shorten time then swap over to the EC125 for finish sanding? Thanks!

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Unless you need the aggressive rotary mode of the Rotex (and I cannot see where you'd use that for the table projects you describe) one of the 150mm ROS would certainly provide you with a larger pad which theoretically will shorten your sanding time over the 125mm unit and would be a heck of a lot more comfortable to use for long periods of time. The Rotex is a "two hand" tool; the other ROS can be comfortably used with one hand.

 

[AlexThePalex]

If the 80 grit phase takes you quite some time, the RO150 can most certainly help you cut that time down to at least a third.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=73106]Montag[/member] If the tables you are working on are larger, I'd suggest finding someone with a wide belt sander to do the initial rough sanding to remove the CNC planing marks. Maybe even a pass at 120 or so before you do the final sanding .

Incidentally, the ETS EC 125 will take the 150mm pad without any problems. So I'd suggest thinking about going 150mm after you run out of 125 sand paper.

Ron

 

[Montag]

[member=73106]Montag[/member] If the tables you are working on are larger, I'd suggest finding someone with a wide belt sander to do the initial rough sanding to remove the CNC planing marks. Maybe even a pass at 120 or so before you do the final sanding .

Incidentally, the ETS EC 125 will take the 150mm pad without any problems. So I'd suggest thinking about going 150mm after you run out of 125 sand paper.

Ron

Hi Ron, yeah my tables are rather large, ranging from 5 ft in width up to 8-12ft in length

 

[Cheese]

A less expensive and faster option is to get a RAS 115.

 

[AlexThePalex]

A less expensive and faster option is to get a RAS 115.

The danger of digging into your table is huge with the RAS. One must have a lot of confidence in his skills to use this on a table you want absolutely flat.

 

[Montag]

Yeah I really just was thinking the ro150 to get those cnc marks out. Don’t really have access to a large drum sander currently

 

[Jim_in_PA]

A less expensive and faster option is to get a RAS 115.

The danger of digging into your table is huge with the RAS. One must have a lot of confidence in his skills to use this on a table you want absolutely flat.

My opinion is that a similar risk is there with the Rotex in rotary mode for its aggressive capability. Gouges can come very easy.

 

[Montag]

Thanks fellas looks like I should stick to the EC and potentially get the 6in in the future

 

[Svar]

A less expensive and faster option is to get a RAS 115.

The danger of digging into your table is huge with the RAS. One must have a lot of confidence in his skills to use this on a table you want absolutely flat.

My opinion is that a similar risk is there with the Rotex in rotary mode for its aggressive capability. Gouges can come very easy.

RAS spins faster than Rotex in rotary mode.
In term of risk of gouging: Random orbit < Rotex rotary < belt sander < RAS115 < angle grinder

 

[Cheese]

So, I've used the RO 125 and an ETS EC 125/150 for flattening a white oak/epoxy slab. The process was slow but it worked well and I'm happy with the results.

I've also used a RAS 115 for removing 6 layers of paint from a table. I assumed this process would eventually lead to a Monkey F but I was completely wrong. I was really surprised at how evenly you could remove the paint from the table top. I imagined I'd see deep gouges in the surface but the surface was relatively smooth. It's all back to the operator's skill level. A hack will always be a hack so it's prudent to hone your skill level.  [smile]

 

[Montag]

So, I've used the RO 125 and an ETS EC 125/150 for flattening a white oak/epoxy slab. The process was slow but it worked well and I'm happy with the results.

I've also used a RAS 115 for removing 6 layers of paint from a table. I assumed this process would eventually lead to a Monkey F but I was completely wrong. I was really surprised at how evenly you could remove the paint from the table top. I imagined I'd see deep gouges in the surface but the surface was relatively smooth. It's all back to the operator's skill level. A hack will always be a hack so it's prudent to hone your skill level.  [smile]

With the RO125, what grit were you using? Were you sanding out CNC lines?

 

[AlexThePalex]

A less expensive and faster option is to get a RAS 115.

The danger of digging into your table is huge with the RAS. One must have a lot of confidence in his skills to use this on a table you want absolutely flat.

My opinion is that a similar risk is there with the Rotex in rotary mode for its aggressive capability. Gouges can come very easy.

I can see how that's true with a very aggressive paper like Saphir 50, Saphir 24. But use Granat 60 or up, and the chance of that happening is minimal to non-existent. Unless you're absolutely bent on using the sander like a butcher's knife.

The RAS on the other hand is much more powerful than the Rotex. You are supposed to keep the Rotex flat on your piece so you have the full 150 mm contact, while with the RAS you are supposed to keep it under and angle so only the very small, very fast spinning tip hits the workpiece.

 

[Cheese]

With the RO125, what grit were you using?

Can't remember exactly but probably in the 120 area...certainly nothing under 80 grit.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Thompmd]

I’ve been using the RO150 for both rough/finish sanding on live edge slabs. It has been a learning curve for sure, especially as mentioned with Saphir 24. I spend a lot of time trying to clean up scratches/gouges. Some-lot May or may not be me. The sander does a great job coupled with a dust extractor(CT36) removing materials on larger surfaces.

I will also mention I’m new to Festool so my skill set and experience is limited.