RO 150 FEQ - Automotive Polishing - Temp. Question

MattrYYC

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
63
Hi there,
I purchased a RO 150 used about a month ago and have been really impressed by it, using it with my CT26 for a lot of sanding.  I had read some great reviews of it as a polisher recently and realized that I could probably retire my dual action polisher that I use for automotive detailing, and that I no longer needed a rotary polisher on my wish list!

I had some minor paint correction that I was trying to tackle on my rear bumper and thought I would try the RO 150 on it, I am using the green polishing backing plate that luckily was included when I bought it.  I mounted some Lake Country pads that I used with my old 6" DA polisher and conditioned the pad as I normally do, I also removed the vac attachment and its sub-handle from the RO150 since I wouldn't use dust extraction for polishing.  The RO 150 did a tremendous job, I used a low speed setting in both modes to buff out a number of minor bumper scratches. After hearing horror stories from others about burning paint with their first time using a rotary polisher I was cautious, I was a little OCD about checking temps on the body with an IR thermometer as well as my hand just to make sure I wasn't going too fast or risking burning things up.

My question just comes from when I used the IR thermometer on the backing plate after I was done about 15 minutes of polishing, I was a little concerned when I found that parts of the backing plate reached 190-200 degrees fahrenheit.  I know this isn't enough to melt the pad, but I just wanted to check in to see if this is in the acceptable range, is it getting close to the top?  I'd like to know when / if to give the RO150 a rest before I rish melting a pad. Because I was using a thick foam polishing pad, the surface of the pad itself was much lower, so I wasn't concerned about this heat transferring to the paint, just more about melting the backing plate or potentially damaging the RO 150.

Thanks for any advice - really impressed with how well this machine worked, I'm surprised I haven't heard more about the use of the RO 150 on my detailing forums - this worked lightyears better than any other machines I have used and still had plenty more power on tap.
 
Matt, sorry for the delayed response. I wanted to do some research before responding. While I don't have an exact temperature for you, I can confidently say that you are well within the specs for the pad and there's no risk of damage to the pad. The Rotex is designed and used heavily for auto applications in the European market. I'm sure that what you're doing isn't approaching the type of heavy duty use seen in auto body and auto manufacturing environments.
 
Thanks very much Shane, that's all I needed to know. The previous owner had told me this rotex was in to be serviced last year after he had a heat issue and melted a pad when sanding so I just wanted to make sure that this was in the range of good, I've used it heavy sanding and not had any issue but just wanted to make sure it wasn't abnormal temps.
 
If a pad is melting, someone is standing on the sander  [blink] or they forgot to put sandpaper on it  [huh].  [tongue]
 
Shane Holland said:
If a pad is melting, someone is standing on the sander  [blink] or they forgot to put sandpaper on it  [huh].  [tongue]

Funnily the owner took me through a beautiful house that was about 3000+ sq. feet (and a helicopter with landing pad on the lawn no less), all solid walnut floors and told me that he did it all with the RO 150, he said he had bought it in 2009 and eventually there was a bearing issue that caused the heat and had it overhauled through Lee Valley / Festool Canada last year.  I think we was happy when he sold it to me for about what he paid in 2009, but still a good price for me with the increases since then.  He included the melted pad, but I can't vouch he didn't stand on it - I wouldn't have wanted to do 3000sq of hardwood on my hands and knees either.
 
Back
Top