RO125 vs RO150, WHY?

[mavrick1903]

Much asked I suppose. so if there is a thread, please feel free to link it.

RO 125 vs RO 150, which one, and why. not a pro, biggest average item, coffee table, book case, that kind of thing. again, not a pro, and wouldnt mind putting the $ difference into paper. want one that does quick as well as smooth for finish work as well, best trade off between the two.

 

[nickao]

RO 150: Much faster to sand, less vibration, simpler to get large surfaces flat, small hands tougher to use

RO 125: Lighter, takes a little longer to get a large surface uniformly flat, not as smooth as the 150, small hands easier to handle

 

[jaegerhund]

I own the RO125 but have never used the RO150 so I can't compare the two.  The RO125 is a GREAT little sander --- I'm very happy I've bought it. 

Justin

Edit:  I imagine for coffee tables and the like, the RO125 is well suited.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Nick nailed this one, the 150 is easier to produce better results as a finish sander. If that is your priority the 150 is the way to go. I wouldn't rule out some of the other Festool sanders like the ETS 150/3 or ETS 150/5.

 

[Woodenfish]

I went into a WoodCraft store to try out a Festool RO150 specifically. I had thought I would love it but it just wasn't the case. The projects in which I had hoped to use it on (similiar to yours) just didn't require that kind of power, especially knowing that all of my lumber is jointed and planed and requires little sanding. I instead opted for an ETS150/5 and have never had a second thought. To me, the ETS sander offered everything I needed. Lots of others here on the forum who purchased the RO150 first also picked up an ETS150/3 too for final finish sanding. If you can test drive the different models take advantage to try them all. Festool sanders are the best I've used.

 

[nickao]

The ETS 150/3 is a great sander! I thought the 150/5 would have more power so I went with an RO 150 and and an ETS 150/3.

You can not go wrong with any of the sanders. I do use rough lumber so the RO 150 I may need more than other people. I just save way to much money not to get the rough lumber. I am also impatient so the RO 150 was right up my ally.

If you have great lumber and a little more time there is nothing wrong with any of the other Festool sanders I have many of the models. They are actually quite addictive and I am sure I  will have all of them soon.

For finishing I have to have that ETS 150/3 though, I do not feel the RO gives me as good FINAL results if I am going to finish a piece.

 

[Eli]

I use rough lumber a lot as well, and the RO150 can take you from fur to finish really fast. If you're using dressed lumber, go with the /3 or /5 as someone else said. But it's hard to beat function for the RO150. People use this for everything from stripping nasty paint to buffing cars and boats.

 

[Tinker]

For my purposes, my RO 150 (old style) is my first "go to" sander from rough (I use mostly rough lumber and often quit with the planer as soon as lumber is flat with very few fuzzes or marks) to finish grits.

final finish sanding is mostly done with the LS 130 with the finer grit papers.
I am acquiring different profiles as needed.  With varying profiles, this is a very versatile sander under many conditions

buffing, if necessary is back to the RO 150

for corners, I have the DX 93

so far, this combination suits all of my purposes except for getting into really tight spaces.
For those, I have a small pad that can be mounted on any of my drills.
Any smaller than that, i use thin blocks of wood or fingers and fold paper to fit.

Tinker

 

[butzla]

Dude,  You need both of 'em.  Problem solved.

 

[Toolpig]

I have the RO150.  I think it's probably overkill for the kinds of projects that you're talking about.

I bought mine because I needed a "do it all" sander.  I've used mine to strip hardwood floors and to remove layers of stubborn exterior paint (including old oil-based lead paints).  Coupled with the DX93, I can remove just about any stubborn coating off of anything and then sweeten the surface in the regular ROS mode with higher grits.

It does a fine job of finish sanding, but the other 6" sanders in the Festool line are probably more appropriate for what you want.

JW

Much asked I suppose. so if there is a thread, please feel free to link it.

RO 125 vs RO 150, which one, and why. not a pro, biggest average item, coffee table, book case, that kind of thing. again, not a pro, and wouldnt mind putting the $ difference into paper. want one that does quick as well as smooth for finish work as well, best trade off between the two.

 

[chrisrosenb]

I own both sanders & use the RO150 75% of the time. Both are excellent sanders. For your uses,
I believe the RO125 would fit your needs very well.

 

[Neill]

Much asked I suppose. so if there is a thread, please feel free to link it.

RO 125 vs RO 150, which one, and why. not a pro, biggest average item, coffee table, book case, that kind of thing. again, not a pro, and wouldnt mind putting the $ difference into paper. want one that does quick as well as smooth for finish work as well, best trade off between the two.

Please read Matthew's evaluation of the RO125.  He does a beautiful job of comparing and contrasting the RO125 and the RO125.

Based on his review and a look see at Rockler, I purchased the RO125.  I subsequently purchased the ETS 125.  I like them both.  The investment and I do mean "investment" in abrasives can be substantial, so I elected to get the 5" model in both.  The RO125 does a pretty good job at fine sanding raw wood but I think that once you start the finishing process you need a kinder, gentler model.

Neill

 

[gkeas]

Based on his review and a look see at Rockler, I purchased the RO125.  I subsequently purchased the ETS 125.  I like them both.  The investment and I do mean "investment" in abrasives can be substantial, so I elected to get the 5" model in both.  The RO125 does a pretty good job at fine sanding raw wood but I think that once you start the finishing process you need a kinder, gentler model.

Neill

I did the same thing.  A friend of mine has both of the larger (RO150 & ETS 150/3) and for my uses, the 125's were a better fit.  I also got both for just a little more than the price of the RO 150 alone.  Having said that, I would remove more material more quickly with the larger size, but I am a hobbiest, and my time with wood is not DIRECTLY proportionate to profit. 

I also have the DTS400, but I'm waiting for a plugit version of the DT93.  I will eventually probably buy all of the damn things.... :

;D

 

[Joe Jensen]

The larger dia of the 150 will leave a flatter surface.  The smaller is easier to handle.  I've had both 5" and 6" sanders in the past and I've always used the 6" much more often.  I have now switched to Festool, RO150 and 150/3, along with an RS2-E and RTS400.  I have not bought a Festool 5" sander yet as it's another size of paper to stock.

 

[Loren Hedahl]

I went with the RO125 because it fit me better.

For final flattening, I have an old 1/2 sheet Craftsman that works in both linear and orbital modes.  It also has very good dust collection when my CT22 vac is hooked up.

Festool makes a similar sander, a bit lighter weight and more refined.  For flattening table tops, especially where a glossy or semi-glass almost piano grade finish is desired, the larger the pad, the flatter the result.

Where I want a piano grade finish, I build up five or six coats of polyurethane in succession before the previous coat has completely become tack free then let it set for a week or so.  I take off the nibs and deglaze with the RO125 using 220 paper, then shift to the 1/2 sheet sander with 220 grit. 

Several more coats of poly are applied the same way and allowed to thoroughly harden.  Then comes the final sanding series.  I like to go up the grades to 800 or more, then polish with the red heavy duty rubbing compound.  At about 400 grit I start hand-sanding wet with a rubber block, a spray bottle and a bunch of towels.  It is a lot of work, but goes faster than you might think.