I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on the Rockler perfect fit dado jig. It may have been discussed before, but it's new to me.
Rockler Dado Jig
Rockler Dado Jig
Rockler Perfect Fit Dado Jig
- Thread starter upscale
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Have not used the Rockler one, but have had very good results with the precision dado jig from Infinity
https://www.infinitytools.com/shop-essentials/cabinetry-and-joinery/mortise-tenon/infinity-tools-precision-router-dado-jig
https://www.infinitytools.com/shop-essentials/cabinetry-and-joinery/mortise-tenon/infinity-tools-precision-router-dado-jig
The Rockler Perfect Fit adapts to the thickness of the stock, as to the exact thickness of, say, a sheet of plywood, for a tight fit, not just a normal router bit width and requires two cuts. A thickness of of paper clearance can be easily allowed for-note that it may be necessary to re-adjust the Rockler for different sheets of plywood from different sources, they're not all exactly the same thickness, been there and scratched my head about it. It, however, does not work with a Festool guide rail as built and also would have to be used at the back, away from the anti-splinter edge. I'm currently intending to adapt the Rockler to my (my brand new and very first Festool!) Festool guide rail, one of the Rockler jig parts is too wide/tall and rides on the surface of the guide rail (it normally rides on the stock) which causes the router to ride at an angle to the surface of the stock. I figure if I cut about 0.15+" off (approximately the thickness of the guide rail 2.5" from the edge) the 0.7" (plastic) part then it will work fine and won't materially affect using the Rockler on other rails either.
Possibly more details later, film at 11.
The only real complaint I have about the Rockler is that it's a little difficult to set the depth of cut as the bottom surface has ribs.
Possibly more details later, film at 11.
The only real complaint I have about the Rockler is that it's a little difficult to set the depth of cut as the bottom surface has ribs.
The Rockler jig looks like a keeper IF 1) one cuts dadoes, and 2) one uses a router to cut them.
I used to cut dadoes on the table saw and I no longer use dadoes in my construction as the DF500 has rendered them surplus.
I applaud companies like Rockler, Fastcap and LV for tirelessly developing new products and gadgets, trying to make woodworking more productive, efficient or, in my case, fun.
I used to cut dadoes on the table saw and I no longer use dadoes in my construction as the DF500 has rendered them surplus.
I applaud companies like Rockler, Fastcap and LV for tirelessly developing new products and gadgets, trying to make woodworking more productive, efficient or, in my case, fun.
As a rule, I do my dadoes on the table saw or the radial arm saw.
But a useful technique in association with whatever method you use:
Often I am cutting dadoes on uprights to hold a shelf in place, and often these uprights are 12” to 20” wide.
To ensure that the dadoes on the right hand side, matches up exactly with the dadoes on the left hand side, I rip the boards after cutting the dadoes.
So if my shelves are 12” deep, I will make a blank about 24-1/4” wide. I then cut the dadoes across the entire board and finally I rip the boards to the 12” width that is required.
That absolutely guarantees that the shelves will be level once assembled, and reduces the amount of work required at the same time.
This is probably done by most people, but since I have never seen it written about, I thought this might be helpful.
But a useful technique in association with whatever method you use:
Often I am cutting dadoes on uprights to hold a shelf in place, and often these uprights are 12” to 20” wide.
To ensure that the dadoes on the right hand side, matches up exactly with the dadoes on the left hand side, I rip the boards after cutting the dadoes.
So if my shelves are 12” deep, I will make a blank about 24-1/4” wide. I then cut the dadoes across the entire board and finally I rip the boards to the 12” width that is required.
That absolutely guarantees that the shelves will be level once assembled, and reduces the amount of work required at the same time.
This is probably done by most people, but since I have never seen it written about, I thought this might be helpful.
Crazyraceguy
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I'm a fan of the shop-built "Exact fit" dado jig. The first time I ever saw that style was a WoodWhisperer video from several years ago. All it takes is a couple of scraps of sheet goods and a router with a collar.
It also uses a piece of the material you want to fit, as a spacer, for setting it up.
I can't seem to find a pic of mine, I know I have one.
It also uses a piece of the material you want to fit, as a spacer, for setting it up.
I can't seem to find a pic of mine, I know I have one.
Crazyraceguy
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It was this one. Mark was one of the first Youtube woodworkers I ever discovered. David Marks was the biggest influence in my interest in woodworking and going beyond the DIY homeowner, along with Norm of course, all long before Youtube.
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=ygUUZXhhY3Qgd2lkdGggZGFkbyBqaWc%3D
smorgasbord
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There's also the housed dado, which can also be done with dominos to make it a housed floating tenon joint. Here's a good video from ENCurtis:
Domino dado jig starting at about 7:50 minutes in. He uses a fence on the jig instead of bushings, but because the joint is "housed" the dado width is fixed by the bit, not the thickness of the stock.
He's long-winded and the jig is harder to build than the standard bushing-based dado, but ending up with a housed domino for shelves is, I gotta admit, pretty cool. Might be useful if the cabinet sides are thin, as well.
Domino dado jig starting at about 7:50 minutes in. He uses a fence on the jig instead of bushings, but because the joint is "housed" the dado width is fixed by the bit, not the thickness of the stock.
He's long-winded and the jig is harder to build than the standard bushing-based dado, but ending up with a housed domino for shelves is, I gotta admit, pretty cool. Might be useful if the cabinet sides are thin, as well.
Another way to do such housing joinery without any jigs is to mill the mortises slightly off-centered on both the male and female pieces by following the mid-panel mortising procedures laid out in the user manual. In the case of 1/2" (12mm?) materials, shims on the "shelf" pieces will be required and the positioning of the shelf pieces will be different, but that's a set-up, once figured out and tested, that can be repeated for all 1/2" stock. The same principle applies to 1/4"sheets.
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