Rotex 125 & 150 Sanding

[Aidex]

Quick question - does anyone know if you can use the larger (but thinner) sanding pads designed for louvre shutters on the rotex 125 to basically turn the Rotex 125 into the 150 (rather than having to buy the 150).  This would be for sanding floors and plaster.

Thanks!

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'm not sure which pad you are referring to but none of the pads are interchangeable between models. 

 

[Aidex]

Thanks.  Festool sells a backing pad for the Rotex 125 that's actually 150mm wide, it's designed to sand louver shutters / doors and is a bit bigger so it can fit through the gaps.  I guess what I'm asking is whether or not this pad can be used to sand floors, as I'm not sure how sturdy it is.....

http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/492129

Cheers
Aidex

 

[AlexThePalex]

Thanks.  Festool sells a backing pad for the Rotex 125 that's actually 150mm wide, it's designed to sand louver shutters / doors and is a bit bigger so it can fit through the gaps.  I guess what I'm asking is whether or not this pad can be used to sand floors, as I'm not sure how sturdy it is.....

http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/492129

Cheers
Aidex

All I can say is I fondled it in the store. The extrusion is thin, and therefor not as strong as a normal pad. From that viewpoint, I'd say it's not that suited for an entire floor. 

Then add the total lack of dust extraction holes, and it is a big no-no for me.

 

[leakyroof]

Thanks.  Festool sells a backing pad for the Rotex 125 that's actually 150mm wide, it's designed to sand louver shutters / doors and is a bit bigger so it can fit through the gaps.  I guess what I'm asking is whether or not this pad can be used to sand floors, as I'm not sure how sturdy it is.....

http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/492129

Cheers
Aidex

All I can say is I fondled it in the store. The extrusion is thin, and therefor not as strong as a normal pad. From that viewpoint, I'd say it's not that suited for an entire floor. 

Then add the total lack of dust extraction holes, and it is a big no-no for me.

  I had to look at the link since it's a pad that I didn't know existed.  No DC holes... Wow. Did Festool think they couldn't get any drilled or molded holes out to the outer edge without weakening the pad?    [blink]
Still, interesting option for someone out there who has to sand Louvers... [cool]

 

[cjspontiac]

Question for using the Rotex 125 with bare redwood.  Need to sand about 60 flat 2x8's about 70" long.  So far, setup is soft pad
and suction turned down.  What would be the recommended grit and type?  Garnet or Rubin?  I've started with 80 grit.  Is that
too aggressive?

 

[Scott B.]

Question for using the Rotex 125 with bare redwood.  Need to sand about 60 flat 2x8's about 70" long.  So far, setup is soft pad
and suction turned down.  What would be the recommended grit and type?  Garnet or Rubin?  I've started with 80 grit.  Is that
too aggressive?

80 Granat is probably just right (that has been my experience), and turn the extraction right up.

 

[Walk On Wood]

I prefer Rubin over Granat for sanding raw wood.  80g sounds good

 

[cjspontiac]

Question:  Just started using my new Rotex 125 and I have "broken it in" on the "Fine" setting so far.
For a quick test I tested a bare redwood board with Garnat 80 grit, suction turned down low, and
moderate pressure.  I am still getting these very, very tiny chain of circles in the wood.  Any ideas
the cause and/or resolution?

 

[Scott B.]

Question:  Just started using my new Rotex 125 and I have "broken it in" on the "Fine" setting so far.
For a quick test I tested a bare redwood board with Garnat 80 grit, suction turned down low, and
moderate pressure.  I am still getting these very, very tiny chain of circles in the wood.  Any ideas
the cause and/or resolution?

Hard to say for sure without seeing your technique, but if you think of yourself as just balancing the sander to keep the disc perfectly flat on the surface while moving in a consistent way and at a moderate pace, you should be fine.

Often, those swirls can be caused by even the slightest movement of the sander "out of flat", which kicks some unextracted dust into the mix, causing a little swirl without even manifesting on the abrasive.

80 is an aggressive grit, and redwood is soft. I get that alot and am able to iron it out in the next grit step with good technique. I would recommend the next grit step be either 100 or 120 to eliminate those micro swirls.

If you get up toward your final grit destination and still see swirls (wipe down with wet rag, water or spirits, and inspect with a lite), block sand them out.  

 

[cjspontiac]

Thanks Scott for the valuable input.