Rotex decision... 150 FEQ vs. 125 FEQ

[JSands]

I am leaning towards the 125 FEQ...

From most of the reviews I have read, it seems the 125 is easier to handle.    The smaller diameter prob. puts less torque on the sander when the edge of the sandpaper bites the wood.    For most of the projects I do, I don't see a big advantage in the extra inch.    I have used the 150, but not the 125... the 150 was a little unruly at times, but I am sure I can work into it.

So other than the obvious 150 benefits, more power, more surface area, higher speed (faster removal), .... (I am sure there is others, please fill in the missing items)....  would those who have used both of these sanders pick the 125 if the added size offers very little benefit?  I have a big tool arsenal, and never use one of these sanders for heavy wood removal... jointers, planers, drum sander, hand planes, etc....  they do the heavy stuff.    I will use it mostly for glue joint clean-up on table tops, doors, etc... and, pre finish sanding, as well as polishing finishes.    Any input would be helpful....  TYIA

 

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I'm sure members will weigh in but you can probably check out some of the other threads on the topic, which has been discussed numerous times before.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/search2/?search=125+150

If you choose one of them and decide afterward that you chose wrong, just take advantage of our 30 day guarantee. Generally, I think people decide based on what other sander(s) they may purchase in the future. With that in mind, if you ever plan on adding another sander, go with the RO 150 if you might add the ETS 150 and go with the RO 125 if you might add the ETS 125.  That way, the abrasives are compatible amongst your sanders.

Aside from that... price, weight, and power are the primary factors to consider. Otherwise, these two sanders share nearly all features. The exceptions would be that the RO 150 has a removal dust channel, can be used with an auxiliary side handle, and there's an optional auxiliary front handle available for it.

The difference that one inch makes is 44% more coverage.  That's 44% more abrasive per sheet, etc.

Regarding how the two sanders handle, I would recommend that you use proper technique and you should have similar results with either. One hand over the center of the pad, the other hand near the back of the sander close to the power cord. That will give you the best balance and control generally.

Hope that helps in addition to members' responses.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

In my experience the 125 is easier to control in rotary mode but the 150 is better in RO mode.

I don't know if it is just my RO 125, but I can't get it to float in RO mode.  I just bought a new pad for it and am hoping to see improvement.  For now I use it in rotary mode only, then switch to an ETS for finish sanding.

 

[Marc2010]

Good call Shane,
I just purchased the RO 125 and the ETS 125. Because they were both 5in sanders so the abrasives are compatible amongst both sanders. I am amazed with the was the little ETS 125 how it works & handles. it a great sander! Small sander with big performance. The feature that I like about it is that when you take the sander off of what your sanding it doesn't start spinning at high RPM's, it holds the same speed so when you place it back on the wood its not burning on contact.  And the RO 125 is a powerful sander as well. My task was to sand 8" oak fascia boards along the ceiling line and the RO 125 was perfect - powerful and light and sanding very close to the edge without touching the ceiling.
There was no demonstration available at my local Woodcraft store just a sander chained to the wall that I could plug in but not try out.( I guess you have to chose by sound).
I wish I would have purchased the sanders at the beginning of the job, I didn't think that these sanders would be any different then what I have.
I'm a fool... its a Festool !! its going to be better that the rest.
Another Happy purchase

Thanks again Festool

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

The feature that I like about it is that when you take the sander off of what your sanding it doesn't start spinning at high RPM's, it holds the same speed so when you place it back on the wood its not burning on contact.

Marc, thanks for sharing your experiences. The pad brake is what prevents the pad from spinning up wildly. And, yes, it's a nice feature that's often overlooked.

 

[JSands]

thx for responses....

OK, still digesting all these sanders....

First, I only work on a bench, no construction site work, no overhead work, rarely vertical work, etc.  So weight is not a big issue....

Now, with the Rotex 125 FEQ, why would one add the ETS 125 EQ?  If size and weight are not an issue, it seems the  2.0mm stroke vs. the 3.6mm stroke is the main difference.    Can someone explain how this stroke differential plays out in real-world standing?  Is there a link that explains what the stroke length is?  I assume it relates to the amount of non-concentric circular motion?

I was just planning on moving up in grit #'s when finishing...but it seems from reading past threads, some people also change the stroke length when getting to finer sanding...is this correct?  Is it necessary?    How does it alter the look of the wood?

 

[fscraftsman]

I have used and own both the 125 and the 150. I think it comes down to more a matter of personal prefrance of what feels better in your hand, kind of like barrel grip jig saw virus top handel. If your leaning towards the 125 then thats probally the sander you want. Take the time at the dealer and make them let you use both on stock and try them out. However in my humbale opionen from what you described your magority of work being I think you need an ETS more then a rotex. The tighter the stroke the less swirl marking that may be visable in your work even if your progessivly changing your grit, after 120 grit your not sanding your burnishing the wood.

And by the way Shane when can I get my RO 90 DX had a chance to try one and see one on recent trip to England and feel in love with it.

Sorry about the misspellings am a scothis/german carpanter not an english teacher

 

[Ken Nagrod]

The smaller stroke makes for tighter swirls in the finish of the object you're sanding which makes it easier to progress through the grits getting out sand scratches from the previous grit achieving  your final finish faster.  The bigger strokes remove the surface faster but leave more visible marks.  The ETS125 is a really light, compact sander - great for final finishing.

 

[BigHonu]

The smaller stroke makes for tighter swirls in the finish of the object you're sanding which makes it easier to progress through the grits getting out sand scratches from the previous grit achieving  your final finish faster.  The bigger strokes remove the surface faster but leave more visible marks.  The ETS125 is a really light, compact sander - great for final finishing.

+1

I have the ETS125, and love it as it is so easy to hold and use, that I would have no issues with my 7 year old daughter using it with fine grit paper (with my supervision of course).  Absolutely no fatigue.  I primarily use sheet goods, so the ETS is perfect.  As soon as I go to using 'real' wood, the Rotex is the first thing on the list (along with a planer of some sort). 

 

[JSands]

> As soon as I go to using 'real' wood, the Rotex is the first thing on the list (along with a planer of some sort).

                                  OK, this is the kind of feedback that really helps....  I use mostly hardwoods, although I do use some veneered ply.  So with that in mind,  would lean towards the ETS 125, vs. the FEQ 125,  right?  Of course, I would not object to owning both.  I just need to justify it in my mind, you all know how that works, right? 

Also, I understand the smaller the stroke, the smaller the swirl mark.  But what does 2mm mean?  Does the sanding head move up / back 2mm ?  via a cam?  Just curious how the movement pattern plays out. 

 

[Ken Nagrod]

2mm is the orbit size or variation (oscillation) in the total stroke - the back and forth movement, done by using a counterweight causing the circular motion to be "whipped" around.

By the "FEQ125" I'm guessing you're referring to the RO125?  I think they work hand-in-hand and you'll find using the RO first, then the ETS to finish up will give you great results.  Like Shane says, you have 30 days to try them out.

 

[BigHonu]

In my very uneducated opinion, if you are going mostly hardwoods, I would get the Rotex.  The ETS is a very nice finishing sander, but has difficulty removing material in an efficient manner.  You can use 60 grit and eventually get there with the ETS, or you can use the same grit with the Rotex, and be done in a fraction of the time. 

While I am very happy with my ETS 125, if I were to only have one sander, it would be the Rotex.  Extremely versatile.

 

[JSands]

Ken,

>By the "FEQ125" I'm guessing you're referring to the RO125

Yes, on the FestoolUSA site, its named RO 125 FEQ Rotex... I guess the correct abbreviated name is  RO 125?  I assume the FEQ is not significant.

found good pix to demonstrate how the orbit size plays out, different vs. what I had imagined ....  2mm is small orbital diameter

So based on this pix,  a very course grit on a 2mm orbit would be senseless.... right?

BigHonu, your point is well taken.  I have a German made Orange 6" RO sander, its stroke is about 8mm...   so that is considered rough, not for fine finishes... although its not bad, I usually switch to a 1/2 sheet sander for fine sanding...the paper clogs fast...

Anyway, the 125 Rotex is 3.6mm stroke, that is much finer, it might be sufficient....  why does someone jump down to 2mm stroke from there?   Certain types of wood?  ultra fine finishes in the 250+ grit range??   Still a bit confused about how to apply the stroke length to the task...  

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Those little orbit tracks become less visible the smaller the stroke, so when your finish is applied like a stain, it won't show the orbital tracking.  How much you can get away with for stroke size varies due to many factors such as the tools sanding pattern, how you sand, the piece you're sanding, the grit and type of paper, your desired final finish.  It can seem pretty complicated.  The easiest way is to just try stuff out on similar scrap pieces and record what works for future use.  Unfortunately there is no magic formula other than trial and error, soooo, good luck in your sanding endeavors and let us know what works for you!

Sanding with courser grits and a small stroke will be less efficient.  That's why 2 sanders might be better than one.

Finishes magnify surface defects unless you've applied a primer surfacer or filler, that's the rule for any kind of surface in any trade.

Hope this helps.

 

[Sparktrician]

Earlier this year I decided to buy a RO sander, and the choice between the RO125 and RO150 was not clear until I went to the local Woodcraft and handled one of each.  The RO125's advantages in smoothing drywall were immediately apparent.  The lighter weight made a big difference.  The choice was made right then and there.  The RO125 has since been used for everything from drywall, to wood finishes, to buffing headlight lenses, all with wonderful results.  A maple piece I just worked on came out with a finish like glass.  Some cherry came out just about as well.  The RO150 would have been too large for buffing headlight lenses and too heavy for the woodworking, and I'm delighted with the RO125 in every application tried.  I'm trying to be patient in waiting for the RO90 to arrive in March to complement the RO125.  For my purposes, these two will be a great set.  My old PC330 is being retired along with the massive cloud of dust it creates every time it's used. 

[smile]

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

And by the way Shane when can I get my RO 90 DX had a chance to try one and see one on recent trip to England and feel in love with it.

The planned introduction is March 1st. Less than 3 months away.  [smile]

 

[PeterK]

Sparktrician - I would keep the PC330 for the really nasty jobs. I use mine to wet sand my tablesaw and other metal surfaces. I also use it for sanding drywall as the dust is so abrasive. Works well when attached to my CT22. I have several Festool sanders for shop use but would rather abuse the PC as it only cost me $70 so no loss when it dies.

 

[Sparktrician]

Sparktrician - I would keep the PC330 for the really nasty jobs. I use mine to wet sand my tablesaw and other metal surfaces. I also use it for sanding drywall as the dust is so abrasive. Works well when attached to my CT22. I have several Festool sanders for shop use but would rather abuse the PC as it only cost me $70 so no loss when it dies.

Thanks for the input.  Unfortunately, my PC330 is old enough to not have a dust pickup.  That fact and the dust from the drywall impelled me to pick up the RO125.  I already had the CT22. 

[smile]

 

[GPowers]

...If you choose one of them and decide afterward that you chose wrong, just take advantage of our 30 day guarantee. Generally, I think people decide based on what other sander(s) they may purchase in the future. With that in mind, if you ever plan on adding another sander, go with the RO 150 if you might add the ETS 150 and go with the RO 125 if you might add the ETS 125.  That way, the abrasives are compatible amongst your sanders. ....

As a hobbyist it was important, for me, to minimize the investment in sandpaper. The Rotex 150 was compatible with the existing ETS 150 and the systainer/3 full of sanding disks that i had.

I'am sure this would not be a concern for some one that is using the device every day. It would be more important to get a device that did the job correctly.

 

[JSands]

OK, still curious about when to move down to 2mm stroke... is there any good literature on the details on this?
I understand the smaller swirls and how finishing magnifies swirls, but would like to learn more about what woods or grits benefit from the ultra fine 2mm stroke. 

So now the RO90... hmmm, from what I can find, it seems this is a mini Rotex?  You can switch heads between the round and triangular?  It seems far enough away in size from the ETS 125, so I guess its just a logical progression down in size with the added switchable head?  (pretty nice option) 

Shane, am I seeing this right?  What am I missing?  What is its stroke length?