Roubo frame saw or other options to resaw by hand

[ear3]

Anyone gotten the kit from Blackburn Tools and built their own?:
http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/roubo-frame-saw-kit/index.html

I have a project coming up that might involve some resawing -- mostly short pieces under 24" in length.  My current bandsaw is a joke, and will be replaced at some point in the future when I get around to having the shop rewired for 220.  So I thought I'd turn a necessity into a virtue, and practice some hand tool work, in which I have limited experience.

Failing that, any other suggestions for a decent saw for resawing? 

 

[Svar]

I've done re-sawing by hand and its doable. Clamp your board to the apron of your bench and cut both edges of the board with TS75 as deep as it goes. Than you only left with the middle to re-saw by hand. Circular saw kerfs will guide you hand saw nicely. In which case you might not need that frame saw.

 

[semenza]

I've done re-sawing by hand and its doable. Clamp your board to the apron of your bench and cut both edges of the board with TS75 as deep as it goes. Than you only left with the middle to re-saw by hand. Circular saw kerfs will guide you hand saw nicely. In which case you might not need that frame saw.

    I have done this myself on boards up to 8' long. The ones I did were narrow enough to get all the way through from two edges. Keep some shims handy on the bench to keep the kerf from closing up or vibrating if you cut all the way through. I used the track with the saw.

Seth

 

[ear3]

Good idea.  I was actually thinking I would do the kerf with an 1/8" veining bit on the router table. Unfortunately, the boards I would be resawing would be 8-10" wide, so I would still need a handsaw.

I've done re-sawing by hand and its doable. Clamp your board to the apron of your bench and cut both edges of the board with TS75 as deep as it goes. Than you only left with the middle to re-saw by hand. Circular saw kerfs will guide you hand saw nicely. In which case you might not need that frame saw.

 

[mo siopa]

I'd recommend doing multiply passes alternating edges rather than a full depth cut with a circular saw.  If your blade is not cutting through the piece, heat will build up much faster and you will weaken/wear your blades. 

-- in contrast to a dado cut where multiple blades are cutting at different intervals and creating more space to dissipate heat.

 

[ear3]

Bad axe was having a 20% off summer sale, so I decided to get the full frame saw kit. They take a lot of care in wood selection, laminating quartersawn pieces around a thin walnut middle for extra stability. Haven't tested it out yet, but will be using it soon to do some book matched door panels and drawer fronts.

 

[ear3]

Just did a small test on a scrap piece of 2" reclaimed oak. The saw works brilliantly. I didn't even make a kerf or do anything other than eyeball the center, and I ended up coming out with two equal pieces the full length down. No blade drift to speak of. The small lip is leftover from continuing the cut on the other end, but is something that would be easily removed in the planer.

You do need a strong vise however to secure the wood. And the cutting itself will give you quite a workout. But it looks like this is a great solution for me in the absence of a resaw capable bandsaw.