Router Lifts and Quick Change Chucks / Collets

Thanks for the video reference!!!  Ok, this explains why I need the overpriced insert.  It also says I can let the bit bottom out (yeah!).  Sold.  :)
 
Michael Kellough said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member]    According to the website, he’s welcomes phone calls.
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Hey [member=297]Michael Kellough[/member] , I sent them an email Friday morning, haven't received a reply yet. If I don't hear from them on Monday, I'll give them a call on Tuesday.

After watching the Fine Woodworking video, I have my doubts that this thing fits a 1010. I think dlu was correct, when he said the website is incorrect.

 
Cheese said:
After watching the Fine Woodworking video, I have my doubts that this thing fits a 1010. I think dlu was correct, when he said the website is incorrect.
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Well...color me wrong on this issue.  [eek]

Just received a reply from Joe at DeRosa Engineering, the manufacturer of Musclechuck.

ME: Your website lists a Type 2 Musclechuck being available for a Festool 1010 router, is that correct? 

JOE: Yes the Festool 1010EQ takes a type 2 Musclechuck.

ME: So that means that a Festool 1010 could use a 1/2” diameter router bit?

JOE: Yes the Musclechuck itself is 1/2 inch so you would get a type 2 Musclechuck screw it on the router and be able to use 1/2 bits with no additional inserts.

That's sweet.  [big grin]
 
He sells those at Amazon too where the reviews are mediocre due to about half the buyers saying the chuck didn’t actually fit the router it purported to, so it would probably be best to buy directly from De Rosa where returns are accepted for any reason and refund includes shipping.
 
Cheese said:
Cheese said:
After watching the Fine Woodworking video, I have my doubts that this thing fits a 1010. I think dlu was correct, when he said the website is incorrect.
Click to expand...

Well...color me wrong on this issue.  [eek]

Just received a reply from Joe at DeRosa Engineering, the manufacturer of Musclechuck.

ME: Your website lists a Type 2 Musclechuck being available for a Festool 1010 router, is that correct? 

JOE: Yes the Festool 1010EQ takes a type 2 Musclechuck.

ME: So that means that a Festool 1010 could use a 1/2” diameter router bit?

JOE: Yes the Musclechuck itself is 1/2 inch so you would get a type 2 Musclechuck screw it on the router and be able to use 1/2 bits with no additional inserts.

That's sweet.  [big grin]
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I would really like to join you in the wrongness - but it just doesn't make sense to me that the Type 2 Musclechuck could fit both the 1400 (and 2200) and the 1100. The collets look dramatically different - I suppose I could go compare them, but the dog is asleep with his head on my lap...
 
Lesson # 1 ...Don’t disturb the pooch.

I agree with you, misery loves company and I don’t want to be the only fool in this thread.  [smile]

I’ll order one from DeRosa Engineering and see what shakes out.
 
Cheese said:
I’ll order one from DeRosa Engineering and see what shakes out.
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Would love to know if this worked out. Did you end up ordering it?
 
Cheese said:
I’ll order one from DeRosa Engineering and see what shakes out
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[member=44099]Cheese[/member] did you ever manage to install the type 2 musclechuck in an of1010?
It would be great to hear if this worked out?

Thanks
 
This is why I love Triton routers. It's a plunge router with a simple lift mechanism built-in and it locks the spindle at full height, which is above the table. Simple one wrench operation.
 
JKM said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] did you ever manage to install the type 2 musclechuck in an of1010?
It would be great to hear if this worked out?
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First off... [welcome] ...to the FOG.  [smile]

Second...sorry to disappoint but I did not.  [sad]  Just one of those things that got away from me while I was drinking the Musclechuck cool aid.

Thanks for bringing it back up though as I may revisit the issue once I clean out the internal cobwebs.  [smile]
 
JimH2 said:
TealaG said:
I agree that the website doesn't explain the concept well.  I have the xtreme xtension and when I saw the muscle chuck, I thought something was "missing".  Yeah...this thing doesn't go in like a router bit.  This muscle chuck replaces the collet nut and collet!  I love the idea and hope it works. 
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I've used the Musclechuck for years and prefer it over a bit extender, but it does need to be calibrated .. as mentioned below. In designing a router sled, I have been working with Joe De Rosa to design an extended collet for the Triton Router.  I already have an extended collet on my OF2200, but haven't thought of trying it on my OF1400.  The one thing that is important with the MC is to calibrate it with a dial gauge to achieve the minimum runout possible. This is a simple process that does require a dial gauge. I use a short section of WoodRiver t-track, clamping one end to the base and the other and to the dial gauge. I am now about to test 4 different bit extenders in the same manner ... just curious if there is a significant difference in the runout of the different bit extenders.  I'll be glad to post about what my findings are.
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The point of the Infinity Extreme is the "one tool" aspect. You end up with some extension as a result of it, but that's not really the goal, just a side-effect.
I have an extension that is similar to the CMT, but that was for a specific depth situation. It still takes 2 wrenches, so no advantage other than the length. So far it has only been a one-time-use thing, but it's in the arsenal, ready.

The Muscle Chuck seems like a similar bit holding method, with a different mounting to the router.
The Infinity being more universal, and the other potentially more rigid, but limited to certain models.
 
I’ve ordered the regular Muscle Chuck for both PC 7518 and Bosch 1617 (two different chucks).

In addition to the other benefits people have mentioned the fact that the MC clamps the bit laterally rather than pulling the bit down as the collet nut is tightened means a bit can be bottomed out before tightening. If you have a reliable means of determining the distance of the router to the base (as in a router lift with digital read out) then you could change bits and come back to the original bit without the usual annoying trial and error fiddling.

The regular MC is hollow so the bit shank has to be long to bottom out in the spindle/shaft. I wonder if the MC extended version is also hollow? It looks long enough that a bit could bottom in the MC if it is closed.

Sommerfeld says to put an O-ring into the shaft for the bit to bottom against. He (Kreg’s brother) says his matched bits (rail and stile for example) don’t require further fiddling but I’ve never trusted that.
 
I've been using the original Eliminator chuck since it came out in the 90s on my PC 7518 in a Bench Dog router lift, also from the 90s.  I've literally routed thousands of 3/8' - 2' x 2'  cash register guards and other plastics for a reginal grocer along with making all the quarter sawn oak trim in my house.  I don't even have to lock the spindle to tighten the chuck.  I use a 1/4" adaptor in the chuck when necessary to use smaller bits. I made my table from 1 1/8' laminate faced particle board that was marketed back then for restaurant tables.  The table is 49 x 30 and I have an Incra Wonder Fence on it and a Dust Router dual collection attached and use a Festool CMS twin hose attached to a 2 1/2 dia hose and get virtually no escaping chips.  Welded angle table is closed on three sides with acrylic and front is open.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the Eliminator chuck [member=25351]rst[/member]. Your Wonder Fence is across the 30” side? Are you using the Incra positioner?

I’ve a sorta similar setup, 7518 in a Bench Dog lift in a BD iron table (32x24) with BD fence with the same dust collection (now sold by MilesCraft).

I’m assembling a new setup with Woodpecker phenolic table and WP Super Fence and a Jointech SmartLift (has Wixey dro built-in). Was going to use another PC 7518 but will probably get a WP Spintech motor. Will try to install the MilesCraft dual dust collection.

And I just assembled a portable rig (but heavy) with Rockler phenolic table and R fence with Bosch 1617 in the Bosch inverted base.
 
My fence is parallel to 49”, I would have liked a cast table but was not available when I did mine.  I use Magswichs on my table saw as guides instead of feather boards.  I’m using Magswitch 200 and 400 to position concealed continuous hinges on a pair of commercial steel doors as we speak
 
rst said:
My fence is parallel to 49”, I would have liked a cast table but was not available when I did mine.  I use Magswichs on my table saw as guides instead of feather boards.  I’m using Magswitch 200 and 400 to position concealed continuous hinges on a pair of commercial steel doors as we speak
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[member=25351]rst[/member] how did you mount the Incra fence when it is so much shorter than the table?

I love using the MagSwitch things on the iron table. For that table I’ve been using some old (20th century) very heavy extrusion fence that pivots on one end and has to be clamped on the other. I set the pivot pin 12” from the bit and then make adjustments 12” away from the bit in the opposite direction. The movement of the fence relative to the bit is then 1/2 as much as the free end of the fence moves. When adjustment is needed I set a MagSwitch up against the fence on the opposite side of the direction it needs to go then unclamp the fence and put a feeler gauge between the MagSwitch and the fence and then re-clamp.

The new phenolic table will be a step back in that regard until Woodpecker gets the Micro-adjust unit back in stock.
 
I attached pieces of 8020 10 series, the flat with two slots at either end and used the Wonderfence clamps.  When I found 8020, I bought various extrusions to tinker.
 
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