Router question

[markberg]

I need to cut some grooves lengthwise in some 36" long sticks 1.75" in diameter. They will start and stop 4" from the ends and the lumber will be cut long so I can screw the ends down to the work surface. I have no experience with electric routers, but it seems this could be done pretty easily with an edge guide attachment as long as the sticks were rectangular in section.

However, they are octagonal, and the face perpendicular to the surface being grooved actually starts about 1/2" below that surface, so the fence on the edge guide will not go down far enough to register against that face.

Could I just use a flat piece of wood as a fence by drilling two holes on the face the appropriate width apart for the guide bars to go through and another two holes perpendicular to those (on the edge), insert threaded inserts and use thumbscrews to fix the rods in place?

I would be looking at purchasing the OF 1010.

Hope this is clear. Thanks everybody.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

    I think this would be pretty easy to do using two edge guides one on each side of the router.

Seth

 

[markberg]

Thanks for the reply and the welcome.

Are you suggesting using the Festool edge guides? I do like the idea of using one on each side, but it looks like the fence might be only 1/2" or so in width. Because I am cutting an octagon, the fence would need to be almost 1.5" in width to fully register against the face perpendicular to the one I am grooving.

 

[GarryMartin]

Welcome!

I'd build a jig that held the octagonal pieces in place and allowed you to run the router along guides from the start to end position you need. Something like the below should give you an idea of what I mean.

[attachimg=1]

 

[Svar]

I agree with Garry Martin. It would be difficult to balance the router with edge guides on a narrow stick. Build a jig where your work piece is trapped in the middle and can't move or rotate.
A router table will actually be even easier. You can do stopped grooves on it too.

 

[Stone Message]

I too like Garry's idea - excellent.

Peter

 

[markberg]

That makes a lot of sense. Thanks.

 

[Holmz]

Welcome!

I'd build a jig that held the octagonal pieces in place and allowed you to run the router along guides from the start to end position you need. Something like the below should give you an idea of what I mean.

[attachimg=1]

Or two pieces of ply to form a slot and use a bushing to guide it. In either case enough meat vertically and horizontally is needed to prevent flexing.
I would had it like an upside down shoe box and completely go to the table with it.

 

[JimD]

It might be wide to attach something to the piece but I'd probably use my router table.  I worry that the flats on an octagonal piece might not be enough to avoid tipping, so I would probably screw a piece of plywood to it for extra support. 

 

[markberg]

more good advice. thanks.

 

[Holmz]

It might be wide to attach something to the piece but I'd probably use my router table.  I worry that the flats on an octagonal piece might not be enough to avoid tipping, so I would probably screw a piece of plywood to it for extra support.

An upside down trough shaped template box, could have half of the octagonal shape to index the part and so that the part fits in with no room to shift around or rotate.
But some screws also could help.