Router Tables

[gkeas]

OK, folks.  I'm in design on a shop built router table and I need some inspiration.   Post em if you got em.  Thanks!

When possible, provide overall dimensions.

I'm looking at roughly 32w x 24d x 40h.  (I'm pretty tall, and I've heard you don't want your router table too low)

 

[alanz]

You might want to check out www.routerforums.com  for some great ideas and expertise.

 

[Dan Clermont]

I made a Pat Warner style micro adjustable fence which attaches to my MFT and hand tool bench.

My shop is small and a dedicated router table just wasn't a possiblity. Really like the Micro Adjustment feature

Pat Warner router table / fence

Will post pics later today when I get in the shop.

Dan ClermontPat Warner router table / fence

 

[gkeas]

You might want to check out www.routerforums.com  for some great ideas and expertise.

Wow, a dedicated router forum.  What a bunch of nerds!

;D ;D ;D

 

[Neill]

Garry -

I would never be so adventurous as to construct my own router table, but to state the obvious, be sure and get a router lift.  I just recently got one from Woodpeckers and what a difference it makes to the whole process.

They usually have some with a small imperfection such as a scratch on the plate at a very favorable price.

Neill

 

[gkeas]

Garry -

I would never be so adventurous as to construct my own router table, but to state the obvious, be sure and get a router lift.  I just recently got one from Woodpeckers and what a difference it makes to the whole process.

They usually have some with a small imperfection such as a scratch on the plate at a very favorable price.

Neill

I have the Triton plunge router which has a removable spring, a crank (for raising the router from above the table), and above the table bit changing.  Good advice, but I got the Triton for table duty instead of the OF2000 for this reason (although I did sacrifice some power, but my routing is generally pretty light duty.)  I'll get a big dog if I think I need it at some point.

Thanks for the responses, thus far.

 

[Pete Pedisich]

Garry,

Here are some pics of a router table I built in 2000, it's mostly made of scraps from work. In 2006 I added the router lift and tilting top.

The size is 32"w x 24"d x 40.75"h.

Why so high? Even though I'm only 5'-11", I hate leaning over, and this height has worked out well for me.

some notes:
1) miter t-track good for feather board, not much else.
2) casters should lock in rotation and swivel.
3) heavy is good - this one is over 200lbs - just like me!
4) the fence is made of 80/20 extrusion.
5) I wish I had dust collection below the top as well.
6) the storage drawer is helpful.
7) router bit storage would have been good, next time...

Good luck,

pete

 

[gkeas]

Garry,

Here are some pics of a router table I built in 2000, it's mostly made of scraps from work. In 2006 I added the router lift and tilting top.

The size is 32"w x 24"d x 40.75"h.

Why so high? Even though I'm only 5'-11", I hate leaning over, and this height has worked out well for me.

some notes:
1) miter t-track good for feather board, not much else.
2) casters should lock in rotation and swivel.
3) heavy is good - this one is over 200lbs - just like me!
4) the fence is made of 80/20 extrusion.
5) I wish I had dust collection below the top as well.
6) the storage drawer is helpful.
7) router bit storage would have been good, next time...

Good luck,

pete

Thanks, Pete.  I have a couple of questions:

1.  Why the lift AND the tilting top?  My understanding is that the tilting top is generally for making adjustments to the router without having to go underneath...

2.  You don't use the miter slot much?  It seems pretty standard on most prefabricated tops, so it must be a popular feature.  I intended on including one for using "sleds" and the like (and the occasional lap/miter joint).

 

[Pete Pedisich]

Garry,

1.  Why the lift AND the tilting top? You're right, I don't need the tilt, but I had a piano hinge and thought, why not? I do remove my DeWalt DW618 for handheld use and it makes it easier than reaching underneath.

2.  You don't use the miter slot much? I put it in my top, which is 27mm MultiPly with plastic laminate on both sides, because all the big-name tops have it, but I've only used it for featherboards. I like the BenchDog approach where it is way out in front. My coping sled does not ride in the miter slot, it rides against the fence, but if you get a sled that rides in a t-slot, the miter track is needed.

-pete

 

[Matthew Schenker]

You might want to check out www.routerforums.com  for some great ideas and expertise.

I'm amazed.  Somehow, I had never seen Routerforums before!  In my shop, the router is the center of activities, so I'm always looking for new and creative ideas to use the router.

I've bookmarked that forum, and will make sure to check in regularly from now on.

Thanks for sharing that link,
Matthew

 

[Cannuck]

2.  You don't use the miter slot much?  It seems pretty standard on most prefabricated tops, so it must be a popular feature.  I intended on including one for using "sleds" and the like (and the occasional lap/miter joint).

I don't like using a sled with the slot on the table, as it requires that you square the fence to the slot (parallel).  As the center of the router bit is the real reference point, I prefer to largely adjust my fence from one pivot point, rather than micro adjusting both planes all the time. 

In this case, a sled (specifically mitre guage) that glides on the fence is preferrable.   I find the setup faster this way, and you don't have to worry about ensuring that the fence and slide are perpendicular every time - they are always relative to each other.

Incra and Lee Valley make some nice setups as far as I can tell.  I'm thinking of switching to the Incra soon.  I currently have the Freud fence - which looked appealing at first, but after some use I realize is not as functional as others that are available.  The only thing I like about the Freud fence is the ability to micro adjust the fence on each side of the bit independently.  This allows it to easily adjust infeed and outfeed depths relative to the bit - perfect for small jointing/planing applications.