Routing Kitchen Hood Vent Question

[member=25829]JZ Bowmannz[/member]

Almost anything you put in that does an adequate job is going to be noisy especially at high levels. I'm running an external roof mounted 1200 cfm Viking unit. It requires 10 inch ducting. It does an excellent job. I've got an older 6 burner Viking that each burner puts out 15000 btus.

While it's true that you can't really hear the fan unit running much even on high, the noise from the volume of air you are moving is loud at higher levels.

Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations as far as mounting and duct size.

 
Ok- a couple more comments, then I'll shut up about this.  I work in an industry that is highly concerned with indoor air quality- I actually have some interaction with the scientists mentioned in the article.  It also means that I probably spout too much info on the subject.

All the other commentors have given good advice.

Gas Ranges:  I was a semi-professional cook before moving into the building trades and I traded in my gas-cooking obsession about 10 years ago for induction cooktops.  Just as powerful, way more precise and no toxic outputs.  There is a learning curve, but I decided it was worth it to not have an open combustion flame burning in my house for several hours a day.  The only think you loose is the ability to use the flame to char peppers etc...but I just use a blowtorch.

Hood Manufacturers:  I really like Ventahood as a company:http://www.ventahood.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=423&Itemid=385

Whole House ventilation:  It's worth looking into putting a small ventilation system on your house to exhaust pollutants that range hoods don't capture.  Check out the Panasonic ERV.  Less than 500.00 and easy to install.

Hood design and placement:  This is possibly the most important aspect of hood success, the edge of the hood has to extend over the front burners or you aren't going to get good exhaust.  This is why I like to install separate cooktops and wall ovens below- it gives you the flexibility to push that cooktop back towards the wall to allow the hood to extend far enough over it to work.  It also means when one or the other appliance goes belly up you aren't totally screwed on cooking options.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
rvieceli said:
[member=25829]JZ Bowmannz[/member]

Almost anything you put in that does an adequate job is going to be noisy especially at high levels. I'm running an external roof mounted 1200 cfm Viking unit. It requires 10 inch ducting. It does an excellent job. I've got an older 6 burner Viking that each burner puts out 15000 btus.

While it's true that you can't really hear the fan unit running much even on high, the noise from the volume of air you are moving is loud at higher levels.

Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations as far as mounting and duct size.

Yes, I understand the air movement noise, like the dust collector. No way we could do it better except trying to use the biggest vent possible, but then it will not be as effective...

We will be putting in a 36" cook top, so I am looking at something at 700 CFM. Not sure 400 CFM is enough.

Thanks.
 
Dane said:
Ok- a couple more comments, then I'll shut up about this.  I work in an industry that is highly concerned with indoor air quality- I actually have some interaction with the scientists mentioned in the article.  It also means that I probably spout too much info on the subject.

All the other commentors have given good advice.

Gas Ranges:  I was a semi-professional cook before moving into the building trades and I traded in my gas-cooking obsession about 10 years ago for induction cooktops.  Just as powerful, way more precise and no toxic outputs.  There is a learning curve, but I decided it was worth it to not have an open combustion flame burning in my house for several hours a day.  The only think you loose is the ability to use the flame to char peppers etc...but I just use a blowtorch.

Hood Manufacturers:  I really like Ventahood as a company:http://www.ventahood.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=423&Itemid=385

Whole House ventilation:  It's worth looking into putting a small ventilation system on your house to exhaust pollutants that range hoods don't capture.  Check out the Panasonic ERV.  Less than 500.00 and easy to install.

Hood design and placement:  This is possibly the most important aspect of hood success, the edge of the hood has to extend over the front burners or you aren't going to get good exhaust.  This is why I like to install separate cooktops and wall ovens below- it gives you the flexibility to push that cooktop back towards the wall to allow the hood to extend far enough over it to work.  It also means when one or the other appliance goes belly up you aren't totally screwed on cooking options.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks Dane, that's all great information.

Will PM you when I have any more question. Maybe I can figure out a way to make a hood extension somehow to get a better extraction.  [smile]

Appreciated your help! JZ
 
JZ Bowmannz said:
We will be putting in a 36" cook top, so I am looking at something at 700 CFM. Not sure 400 CFM is enough.

As a rule of thumb (not based on code), I try to size the hood six inches wider than a gas cooktop in order to keep an combustible material (wall cabinets) well clear of heat/flames.

The manufacturer's instructions will call out a recommended hood height.  Almost all clients seem to think this height is too low and worry about bumping their heads.  In practice, for most people, an 18"-21" deep hood mounted at about 66"-69" above finished floor will never make contact with the noggin of someone standing at least 25-1/2" away from the wall.

I also try to keep a minimum of 15" of clear countertop to each side of the range/cooktop as an emergency landing space for a hot pan.
 
As someone who's dealt with kitchen design intricacies, I completely agree with your approach to sizing the hood for a gas cooktop – six inches wider is a smart move to ensure safety. It's interesting how clients often find the manufacturer's recommended hood height too low; however, your practical insights make perfect sense.

An 18"-21" deep hood at 66"-69" above the floor is not just a safety measure but also avoids any head-bumping concerns for those standing at a reasonable distance. Your attention to keeping a minimum of 15" of clear countertop as an emergency landing space for hot pans is a thoughtful touch.

 
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