Routing/Milling aluminum angle for the MFS using an MFS & a 1010

Cheese

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This is another article on routing aluminum. The angle will be attached to the MFS and then the MFS will be clamped to a Simpson wood door to enlarge the hinge mortises.  The original 8020 post is below for reference.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festo...amps-using-an-mfs-a-1010/msg573098/#msg573098

The aluminum uneven leg angle I chose is sold by 8020. It's 60mm X 30mm X 4mm thick and 18" long. 8020 sells the stuff by the inch. This pretty well matches the original size of the steel MFS brackets. I just needed something longer for clamping purposes than the steel brackets which are only 3" long. 

First I need a fixture to hold the angle, hold the MFS and be able to be held down to the table. I decided on using an extra chunk of 2 x 6 that was floating around.

Run it through the planer to make sure the bottom & top surfaces are flat.
Run it through the table saw to make sure one edge, the clamping edge, is flat & straight.
Route a 4mm thick rebate on the top to receive the 4mm thick angle.
Take it to the band saw and add a 45º chamfer to the edge to clear the radius on the angle.
Bore a 1/2" diameter in both ends so it can be clamped to the MFT top.

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The 2 x 6 is clamped to the MFT top and the aluminum angle is put in place.

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I used 2 Festool clamps to clamp the angle to the 2 x 6 fixture.

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You can see the red alignment marks that are made on both ends of the aluminum angle to properly position the MFS. The MFS is then screwed into the 2 x 6. The idea is to mill 4 slots into the aluminum angle, remove the 2 Festool clamps holding the angle, pry/remove the angle and install a fresh piece of angle and reinstall the clamps. The 2 x 6 is 18" long as is the aluminum angle so registration of the fresh piece of angle is simple. Just align the edges and the slots for both angles will be in the same locations.

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I'm using M5 Kipp quick release handles so I chose a 7/32" Amana aluminum end mill, #HSS 1632.  I also used a 10.8 mm bushing on the 1010 router. Turned down the router speed to 2 and used some lubricant. The slots are 40mm long and on the RH side of the photo you can see one machined out. The process is to mill the far LH slot pushing the router forward and then mill the far RH slot pulling the router back towards you. Install a 129 mm spacer on the LH side, repeat the milling process for slot 3, slide the spacer over to the right and complete the 4th slot.

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In this photo the 2 LH slots have already been milled and the spacer is moved over in preparation to produce the 4th slot.

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The 4th slot after milling.

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Here's the aluminum angle next to the MFS steel angle.

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And here are the 2 aluminum angles finished. There's now 18" of real estate on each angle for placement of clamps.

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Well they came out perfect.

There are many ways to get the job done.

I probably would have done it with my rail on the MFT and stops working at 90* to the rail. Lazyness would have probably left me using some 3/4" boards screwed together for under support of the angle bracket. (No MFS for me, but I do have Woodpeckers version.)
 
Here's the completed aluminum angle clamps attached to the MFS. They're attached with Kipp M5 adjustable handles. There's now a lot of room for clamping.  [big grin]

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Speaking of Kipp handles, here's an interesting contrast. All 3 of these handles are from Kipp.
Green = M5 male thread @ $4.16 from MSC
Red = M4 female thread @ $3.81 from MSC
Black = M4 male thread @ $27.44 from Festool service.  [eek] [eek]

Everyone is entitled to mark-up...but then there's MARK-UP.

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So this is where we blend the theoretical with the practical.

To some, this thread could have simply been subtitled "Ya I've never needed to machine aluminum so let's get get back into the wood business, I don't need no stinking aluminum."

However, here's where the rubber meets the road as far as woodworking goes. The aluminum angles were initially machined to attach to the MFS so that there would be a larger area to accommodate the weird clamping positions that may be necessary.

Here the aluminum angles are attached to the MFS with Kipp clamps...they work pretty slick. This is also a major part of the Simpson door rejuvenation project...remember that one? We're slowly but surely coming full circle.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/membe...a-simpson-full-view-door/msg574102/#msg574102

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Very nice job Cheese, they look perfect to me, and so functional. You’ve almost certainly saved yourself a fair bit of money too but, I know it’s about satisfaction more than the money.

I still do a bit of metal work, no expert but I get by. I must be honest, I’m not keen on seeing metal swarf in the workshop, more so steel but, considering the little amount I do, it’s not a problem.
I would love to learn how to weld properly, one of my brothers who is a mechanic, does beautiful welding, it looks like stitching. Mine looks like nothing I’ve seen before!

Anyway, you’re obviously very good with metal.
 
A woodworker works with wood. A fabricator works with many materials. Throw a TIG and/or MIG spool gun into the mix and aluminum has so many possibilities. Combined with wood, it can create some functional items. Festool products machine aluminum beautifully too. I could see those fences being useful for repetition.
 
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] - I ordered the 80/20 aluminum angle and machined two 18" pieces today at a friend's home who has a Bridgeport. 

I also ordered the Kipp handles from McMaster - M5 x .8mm.  But they won't fit the MFS inserts from Festool.

Are you using the ball-captured triangle nuts that came with the MFS?  Or did you go with something different?

Thanks for the idea.  Looking forward to putting these to use -

Neil
 
neilc said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] - I ordered the 80/20 aluminum angle and machined two 18" pieces today at a friend's home who has a Bridgeport. 

I also ordered the Kipp handles from McMaster - M5 x .8mm.  But they won't fit the MFS inserts from Festool.

Are you using the ball-captured triangle nuts that came with the MFS?  Or did you go with something different?

[member=167]neilc[/member] 

Jeez...do I ever miss those days when I had access to a Bridgeport. [crying] [crying] [crying]

Festool offers 2 versions. The short triangular ball-captured nuts have M4 threads. They also offer a long version that's used to connect the MFS extrusions together, those have M5 threads.  I sized the angle brackets slot diameter for use with M5 fasteners.

I'm more than willing to send you a package of the M5 version because I have so many.  Just PM me your address.

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That longer version for joining Festool MFS rails, is that what they call an "Along-Binder" 493235 $33.96/pr?
 
RKA said:
That longer version for joining Festool MFS rails, is that what they call an "Along-Binder" 493235 $33.96/pr?

Yes, although I believe at one stage (several years ago) there was a beneficial parts pricing error because I purchased loads too!  [wink]
 
GarryMartin said:
RKA said:
That longer version for joining Festool MFS rails, is that what they call an "Along-Binder" 493235 $33.96/pr?

Yes, although I believe at one stage (several years ago) there was a beneficial parts pricing error because I purchased loads too!  [wink]

A package consists of 4 connectors & 8 setscrews.

I ended up with so many of them because a package came with every MFS I purchased. I even received a package of the long connectors with the MFS 2000 rails.  [eek]

 
McMaster has the short ball nut in M5 but the nut doesn’t have the slot guide on top.

They also have a Tee fastener that creates a butt joint that can be re-positioned without disassembly. Fairly similar to the MFS connections.

McMaster has greatly expanded the range of 8020 stuff they stock, including slides, rollers, and bearings for T-slot extrusions.
 
Thanks [member=44099]Cheese[/member] for the offer but I had some in a drawer and did not think about them.  I had never joined the MFS rails before.

All good -
 
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