Rubbing out waterlox countertop

[Don Ashley]

Hello, I have finished a maple side grain countertop with waterlox and would like to rub it out to a more satin finish. I have an ETS 125 and a rotex 150. My rotex and I came to an agreement making the countertop. I promised I would get it out of the box if it promised not to run away on me. We both held up our end and I am happy with the finished product, just not the sheen.  I need recommendations on a sanding/buffing sequence. I don't have much experience with this process but have read a lot so I know theory.  I will post a photo once I figure that out!

Thanks,
Heather

 

[Don Ashley]

Trying picture

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[tjbnwi]

Look into rotten stone or pumice. Either will dull the surface if you stop working the top at the proper time.

Tom

 

[rsh]

hi, which waterlox product did you use and how long ago did you put on the last coat?

 

[JSlovic]

I rubbed out  a waterlox satin finish with an ets 125 using Granat and then interface pads and mirko abranet worked great, I can get exact grits for you tomorrow

 

[Don Ashley]

This was waterlox original (semigloss). Applied about 2 weeks ago. I am not in a hurry so I figured I would wait at least a couple more weeks. I can still make a fingernail impression in the finish.

Heather

 

[tjbnwi]

It looks as if you laid the product out very well. Nice job.

Tom

 

[rsh]

w/lox says to wait 30 days for cure. seems excessive, but maybe extra time to cure is to go high high polish instead of going down to satin.

i've done the whole routine with wet/dry sandpapers and an auto buffer and compounds (pre-festool era), but no fun zone ever, let alone in a kitchen. until someone offers a rotex schedule that i would love to implement as well, other options to maybe consider

1) buy a quart of satin - its a little harder to work, but it avoids rubbing out for sheen change. check compatibility, dont know v.o.c. laws where you are or exactly what product is on there

2) if dust nibs are not bad now, leave it and live with a high satin / low semi-gloss. the sheen really does decrease, and it should've done it at least a little by now?

3) sand like you would between coats (320), vac, wipe on a thin coat, and then wipe off the excess. stop re-coating when you like it how it looks, usually 2-3 of those to fill scratches. for raw wood i full strength brush coat number one, and wipe on / wipe off until i get the sheen i like. takes lots more material and coats, but dries fast and better control.

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[junk731]

After the finish has cured you can use a Platin 4000 grit disk that will give you a perfect satin finish. If still too shiny you can then try a Platin 2000 grit to bring the sheen a little lower. Satin finish is subjective within its range.

John

 

[Don Ashley]

Thanks all, I will let you know how it turns out. I only have access to the semigloss waterlox here without ridiculous shipping. I will probably let it sit for a while and see if I still want to buff it out.
Thanks,
Heather