You could also try these, as they're less pricey than the Arbortech:
http://katools.com/carving-tools/lancelot-and-squire-cutters/
http://katools.com/carving-tools/lancelot-and-squire-cutters/
Rubin 24 on an RO90 or rasp bit in grinder?
- Thread starter Wuffles
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Bigchasbroon
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- Apr 12, 2013
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How did you get on with the arbortech products Wuffles? I'm about to do a sculpted seat in walnut and I was thinking of the pro4? Any feedback?
Bigchasbroon said:
Yes yes. Had a play with them over the weekend actually.
So, for "neat" work, go with the posh TurboPlane. It doesn't yank the wood out by the roots and throw it around the place (unless you don't read the instructions and try and use the wrong side of the grinder - you'll see).
The Pro-4 is adept at shifting wood quicker, you can kind of tell what's going to happen when you realise it's set up more as the tooth arrangement of a chainsaw, but moving quicker, and with less respect for wood and anything near it. However, if you are delicate and happy to get sanding afterwards it'll do the job very well. Won't follow a template though, would more likely take the template down a back lane, get it hammered on vodka, drop in some Rohypnol and the rest is just a prosecution lawyer's dream come true - sad for the template's family though.
I was demoing it for someone who really wasn't interested just yesterday and can take a photo of the resultant gouges that took form in a newly sawn bit of trunk.
Either of them will want to tear the equipment out of your hands if you tilt it the wrong way - that's an important safety tip right there. Coming from an IT background, the whole "we don't need no stinking manuals" would have resulted in me losing anything I left carelessly dangling to the left of my body.
Back in a bit with a photo - light permitting.
Oh, and if you are going to get the Pro-4, just get the blade, most people seem to manage without the "kit" as it stops you from getting in where you need to. Just my opinion of course.
So, it looks like a photo from NASA, I can see that now. The bubbly bits on the right are actually concave - the lighting makes it look convex (or vice versa depending on your sway) and are done by the posher cutter, the rough strokes are from the Pro-4.
I'm no expert after a few goes on it obviously, but I am sure you could lose the roughness of what I've done there with a bit of practice. Videos I watched before buying suggested it was a little less violent with wood, so it's my fair hand that's doing the damage.
The posh cutter though is a very different beast, much less damage but slower to cut out the material. At three times the price though, your call which would work better.
[member=6270]woodguy7[/member] could perhaps suggest which one of those is more like the results you'd get from the Saburr - if he remembers he's got one [tongue]
I'm no expert after a few goes on it obviously, but I am sure you could lose the roughness of what I've done there with a bit of practice. Videos I watched before buying suggested it was a little less violent with wood, so it's my fair hand that's doing the damage.
The posh cutter though is a very different beast, much less damage but slower to cut out the material. At three times the price though, your call which would work better.
[member=6270]woodguy7[/member] could perhaps suggest which one of those is more like the results you'd get from the Saburr - if he remembers he's got one [tongue]
)
Bigchasbroon
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- Apr 12, 2013
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- 315
Thanks a lot for posting. Im thinking of going for the cheap one as I've spent a fortune on wood and router bits for this project. [tongue]