Rubio Monocoat vs Odie's oil

[jaguar36]

These two hardwax/oils seem to be the hot new finish for everything from floors to furniture.  Its hard to parse through all the marketing speak BS on their websites but it seems like they are pretty similar, although the Rubio is two parts.  It sounds like they are both primarily wax mixed with linseed oil.
What has folks experience with them been?  Do they actually hold up well?  They claim they are super durable, but then I read a couple posts that they were stained by common stuff like wine.

 

[Tom the Remodeler]

The marketing is definitely tough to cut through. The "penetrating" and "hard wax" part is particularly troublesome, and I assiduously avoid using those terms with clients. I describe the various oils to clients as a "traditional" oil finish that holds its beauty with regular maintenance. They're definitely not new on the scene, Rubio has been in production for over 100 years.

Saicos is another similar product, using oil derived from Thistle.

I've been using various Rubio products for several years and I've been pleased with the results. The biggest thing to communicate to clients is that any of these non-film oils will require "regular" maintenance. "Regular" is entirely informed by the use case. The upside is that the piece will hold its beauty (since it's being regularly renewed), whereas a film finish will never look as good as it did on Day 1.

The oil finishes are definitely not a "one and done" treatment.

 

[ryan_k]

I've seen lots of horror stories with Odies and people having to refinish client pieces.  I used Odies for 3 personal projects, one is still going strong after 4 years or hard use, the other two needed refinishing within 6 months.  Finish didn't seem to absorb evenly and had a patchy appearance.

When I made a comment on instagram about the problems I had, the owner accused me of being a "Big Finish" fanboy and blocked me.

 

[kevinculle]

I have used both Rubio Monocoat and Odies on my last 4 or 5 projects after decades of finishing with a shellac basecoat, stain (where needed), shellac film build and polyurethane topcoats.  The ease of finishing with both of these products is a major plus and a refreshing change from many days of prep, coat, and wait with traditional finishes.  The cost appears to be high at first, but when you take into account that both products go a long way the costs are actually quite reasonable.  I'm pleased with how these finishes have held up in use although none of my projects was a rough use surface.

 

[jeffinsgf]

I would like to add Osmo Polyx to this discussion. I noticed Peter Parfitt uses it extensively, so I tried it and like it very much. Easy to apply and leaves a nice feel. I bought two cans of Satin, but decided to try the Gloss when I was ready for my third, and I like it even better. Two coats with 800 grit Granat between coats created as nice a finish as I've ever achieved.

If you're a "weekend warrior" I would strongly suggest a Stop-Loss Bag. About one-fourth of my first can hardened in the can after sitting for 5 or 6 weeks. I bought a Stop-Loss Bag when I bought my second can, and got every single drop of finish out, even though it took me 8 or 9 months and 5 or 6 projects to go through it.

 

[4nthony]

I would like to add Osmo Polyx to this discussion. I noticed Peter Parfitt uses it extensively, so I tried it and like it very much. Easy to apply and leaves a nice feel. I bought two cans of Satin, but decided to try the Gloss when I was ready for my third, and I like it even better. Two coats with 800 grit Granat between coats created as nice a finish as I've ever achieved.

If you're a "weekend warrior" I would strongly suggest a Stop-Loss Bag. About one-fourth of my first can hardened in the can after sitting for 5 or 6 weeks. I bought a Stop-Loss Bag when I bought my second can, and got every single drop of finish out, even though it took me 8 or 9 months and 5 or 6 projects to go through it.

I really like Osmo as well. I've only used the matte finish and for white oak, I prefer the Raw (2% white tint, less amber) over the Clear. Since you mentioned gloss, I'm wondering if I should do gloss as my first coat and matte as my second?

Also, great call on the Stop-Loss Bags. I didn't know those existed and I'm definitely going to grab some. Total Boat Halcyon comes in a similar bag and I wish more manufacturers shipped their product in them.

 

[rvieceli]

I'm a big fan of Osmo Polyx clear in satin.

This stuff works well for keeping the can from oxidizing. It's basically Argon which is heavier than air and inert.
https://www.amazon.com/Bloxygen-Preserver-Portable-Preservation-Chemicals/dp/B01N4IL6T3

Ron

 

[jeffinsgf]

Anthony,

Be sure to get the funnel from Stop-Loss. Makes it idiot-proof to transfer to the bag...and I'm just the idiot to prove it.

As for gloss level. I think you should try it a few ways...satin over gloss, gloss over satin and 2 gloss. "Gloss" isn't like a poly-like gloss. It's just very smooth and silky. On a white oak cabinet I just finished I used two coats of Polyx and then waxed it with Renaissance and it is definitely one of my best finished pieces.

 

[John T.]

I’ve used and liked Osmo for years, although I recently tried Rubio after seeing a video that tested water resistance of them, plus Odies. The Rubio tested better than the Osmo. I did my last project in Rubio but I don’t think it feels or looks as nice. Maybe I need to ignore the instructions and sand to a higher grit. I did like the white tint that countered the yellowing nature when these products are applied to white oak. I got the equivalent tinted Osmo product and I’m going to try it next.

I also want to try a danish soap finish but haven’t been able to find the right soap to buy.

I've seen lots of horror stories with Odies and people having to refinish client pieces.  I used Odies for 3 personal projects, one is still going strong after 4 years or hard use, the other two needed refinishing within 6 months.  Finish didn't seem to absorb evenly and had a patchy appearance.

When I made a comment on instagram about the problems I had, the owner accused me of being a "Big Finish" fanboy and blocked me.

I think I read about this or a similar reaction to someone else. Really crazy way to run your business.

 

[jaguar36]

Which Osmo are you using?  I see a 3043 Clear Satin, a 3054 Clear Satin, a 3031 Clear Matte on Amazon.  On Osmo's Datasheetthey have a 3032 Clear Satin and a 3062 Clear Matte.  Matte and Satin mean the same thing to me although according to the picture on the website the satin is browner?  That seems bizarre.

Also bugs me about all these finishes that they claim they are ideal for floors and furniture.  Those are two very different use cases.

 

[jeffinsgf]

Also bugs me about all these finishes that they claim they are ideal for floors and furniture.  Those are two very different use cases.

How so? I believe most of these were developed to hold up on floors, but why does that make them less than ideal for furniture?

I think the standard vernacular for shininess goes Gloss>Satin>Matte.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=12048]jaguar36[/member] i use 3054 satin. It works well for me. There is a soft sheen. Glossy is too shiny for me on wood and the matte is too dull, satin hits the spot.

That’s one of the reasons I don’t use Rubio because I think it looks dead.it’s so flat and dull. Although I have some to try with the Nano stuff

Most of my pieces are vertical in nature not horizontal and flat. So I don’t have to worry too much about folks leaving a sweaty glass on the surface.

As far as floors vs furniture, lots and lots of people use Osmo on furniture with good success.

Ron

 

[Brian Livingstone]

I am a big fan of Osmo.  I have tried the other similar brands, and am going to stay with Osmo going forward.  I find the clear extra thin on walnut leaves a very nice matte finish.  Not sure I want more sheen than I get from this matte finish. 

 

[4nthony]

Which Osmo are you using? 

These are the two I've used:
3051 Raw Matte
3031 Clear Matte

 

[John T.]

I've used the 3031 clear matte in the past but recently bought some 3051 to try out for less yellowing effect on white oak. I think walnut looks better with the yellowing/darkening effect.

[member=12048]jaguar36[/member]That’s one of the reasons I don’t use Rubio because I think it looks dead.it’s so flat and dull. Although I have some to try with the Nano stuff

I agree with this. I was surprised at how unfinished the wood looks and feels. I like a matte finish but it's too far in my opinion when it looks and feels literally unfinished.

 

[4nthony]

I've used the 3031 clear matte in the past but recently bought some 3051 to try out for less yellowing effect on white oak. I think walnut looks better with the yellowing/darkening effect.

Yeah, this is also very similar to what happens with some of the Rubio products. "Pure" looks great on walnut and other dark woods, while their "Natural" is tinted and looks great on white oak and lighter woods.

 

[jaguar36]

How so? I believe most of these were developed to hold up on floors, but why does that make them less than ideal for furniture?

A floor is getting walked on all the time, it should have very high wear and abrasion resistance.  Nobody looks super closely at a floor though, so its appearance is not as important.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I really like Osmo as well. I've only used the matte finish and for white oak, I prefer the Raw (2% white tint, less amber) over the Clear. Since you mentioned gloss, I'm wondering if I should do gloss as my first coat and matte as my second?

That is definitely a thing with film finishes. I wonder how that works with these more penetrating type products?

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

I'm wondering if I should do gloss as my first coat and matte as my second?

FWIW, Bob Flexner who's experience with finishing is highly respected, says that with regard to matte, satin, gloss, etc, the FINAL coat is the only one that matters. For example, you apply two coats of matte followed by one gloss, the gloss is what you will see.

On a slightly different topic, he says that you can mix satin with gloss (or whatever combo) to get something in between but that is when mixing and then applying the finish.

 

[4nthony]

Anthony,

Be sure to get the funnel from Stop-Loss. Makes it idiot-proof to transfer to the bag...and I'm just the idiot to prove it.

A few days ago, I transferred some Osmo into a couple Stop-Loss bags.

Using the funnel, the first bag went great except it took a long time. A quick Google search got me to a trick that mentioned using the funnel as a bellow to assist in air transfer between bag and can.

I misunderstood the instructions and gently squeezed the bag. Big mistake! The small amount of air pressure blew the funnel off the bag.

Oops. It clearly wasn't as snug as the first bag due to the small amount of oil that dripped into the tip of the funnel.

I've seen other videos where people have used a hose clamp to secure the funnel. I might have to give that a try.