Sander and abrasive(s) for painted millwork?

[BrotherBrian]

I'm working on a fairly large spec home, and just discovered today that, after priming, installation and painting of the 9 1/2" baseboard, some kind of milling line is appearing on nearly all of it, appx. 1700 LF. I suspect it's from a bad planer blade, but that's conjecture.

I wasn't able to get a look at the material as it was being unloaded at delivery, and it was primed within a few hours thereafter.  I did however, along with 4 other carpenters, cut and install the primed base, and none of us noticed anything unusual.  We still have about 800 LF of primed, uninstalled base, and even with close examination can't discern the line.

The project manager is seriously considered ripping the base out and starting over.  I suggested sanding, but the painters are saying that with the paint the sanding discs would gum up too fast, making the job unfeasible.  This is where Festool may come in.

Is there a sander/abrasive combination that may work to effectively remove the paint and primer, and then work on the offending line?

Ideas, please?

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'm assuming the unsightly line is on the flat, is that right?  If so, almost any random orbit sander would work and many abrasives from other manufactures.  If you're looking at this a good opportunity to get into Festool then I'd suggest the ETS 125 or ETS 150/5.  I also wouldn't rule out any of the Rotex sanders although they might be a little more than you'd need for this application.

First choice on the abrasives would be Granat, then Brilliant.  If you anticipate very stubborn removal I'd think about Cristal.  I happen to really like Festool abrasives but remember they aren't magic, they still can clog up on difficult finishes.     

 

[BrotherBrian]

Thanks for the response.  Yes, the line is on the flat, and I am looking for an opportunity to purchase a Festool sander.  I appreciate your suggestions for sanders.  I've looked at the many abrasives that Festool offers, but honestly I was confused as to which would be good/the best for this specific application. 

As a side note, I do a LOT of scribing, both on baseboard as well as cabinet installs.  In your opinion, would either of the sanders you mentioned be a good choice for scribing?

 

[Bob Marino]

   Ditto what Brice said.
 I would just add that your paper usage would be less than you think in that you don't have to sand off every last bit of paint off the entire width of the moulding.
The ETS 125 or the DTS 400 (small rectangular orbital sander) for that matter, might be a bit more ergonomic, both being small one handed sanders. If I were to choose a Rotex sander for this project, I'd get the RO 90 over the other Rotex sanders - and the papers are way less costly.
But the ETS 150 would be my choice for a non Rotex sander - it's way faster (with its larger pad 6" vs 5") and it's larger orbit (5mm vs 2 mm) than the ETS 125. It's also, IMHO a better all around sander for the shop.

Bob

 

[Bob Marino]

Thanks for the response.  Yes, the line is on the flat, and I am looking for an opportunity to purchase a Festool sander.  I appreciate your suggestions for sanders.  I've looked at the many abrasives that Festool offers, but honestly I was confused as to which would be good/the best for this specific application.  

As a side note, I do a LOT of scribing, both on baseboard as well as cabinet installs.  In your opinion, would either of the sanders you mentioned be a good choice for scribing?

  Dont' let the wide varieties of paper confuse you. Here's a link to a quick review of the papers.

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/abrasives_brochure.pdf

  The Granat would be the preferred choice; many customers are even going Granat exclusively as it can handle bare wood as well as painted or varnished woods.
 Scribing? Here's where the Rotex sanders shine brightly over the non RO sanders. In their "rotary" mode, scribing would be short work.

Bob

 

[Tim Sproul]

9.5 inch tall base is likely to have a huge amount of flat.  If so, get the 150/5.  Can the millwork be sanded in place, and then masked and touched-up with another spray coat?

For scribing, I prefer planer - electric hand or the "old-fashioned" cordless type.  Circular sanders aren't a good tool for scribing,  Inevitably, you will muck up the millwork - finish or the material itself will chip out on the side where the sander pad exits on the show face of the millwork.  Never mind how slow it is to sand versus plane.

 

[junk731]

For scribing check out the link.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/sanding-to-a-scribe-line-with-the-ras-115-sander/

John

 

[Oldwood]

Is the line an innie or an outie [big grin] If it is raised I would suggest starting with a sharp cabinet scraper if you are familiar with them. I find the scraper makes short work of small raised sections on wood or finish. I use a cabinet scraper to take off the dusty bits after the first coat of finish on veneers then go to sanding. If it is a recess I would fill & sand.

Gerry

 

[Scott B.]

We've lived this nightmare. It's almost always an outtie which makes it unskimmable but sandable. RO 125 and a box of 80. Done.

 

[BrotherBrian]

Thanks to all for their suggestions.  I've discussed these ideas with the project manager, but he's still leaning towards removal and replacement of the baseboard.  As this is a large spec home, he has to discuss the cost/timing issues with the owner of the company.

I selected a couple of random 5 foot lengths of the remaining BFH (Base From Hell as it's now being referred to) and milled 1/24th off the faces, had the painters finish them and they look perfect.  We'll plane the remaining 800 LF so at least the main floor of the home won't be held up.

As a side note, the BFH was purchased because it was a "good deal".  Funny how so often the "good deals" cost considerably more on the back end.  This seems to happen when bean counters become involved in making decisions for construction, which they know little about except a class they once took in college that showed them how to save money on baseboard and cabinets which are a "really good deal" though you're left with the choice of installing them level or plumb, but no, you can't do both without a sledge hammer. 

I suggested that, as an adjunct to the college class that covered saving money, the individual who got the "good deal" should have to come to the job site and sand the BFH by hand for a few days, and then plane the remaining base himself.  This idea, of course, was met with horror at the thought of sanding dust and planing chips fouling otherwise perfectly good penny loafers.

Ok, snarky rant over.  Thanks again!

 

[spstevep]

Hi
i expect you are using latex paint and primer. if you are your painters are correct. also you can't possibly sand the baseboard with out some what damaging the rest of the wood, Try and strip the paint with stripper or a heat gun you only need to strip the area where you have the ridge. once that done you can sand the ridge down with a 100 grit sand paper, but be carefull as any dimples from sanding will show up in the finish paint.