Sander use question: RO 150 vs RS 2

[Daver]

I have clients who want me to strip and flatten a pine dining table.
I'm trying to decide: If I can only buy one sander for the job, should it be the RO 150 or the RS 2?
The table was built by someone else and it may best be described as rustic. The builder used a pretty heavy stain throughout- it almost has the effect of paint. You don't really see any wood figure (but you do see swirls!).  [tongue]

The clients have said that dinner plates don't lay flat on it... so I certainly have to flatten it.
I know the big RO will take off all the finish like white off rice. How flat can I get with just the 150?
Conversely, how well would the RS 2 function to remove all that stain on the way to getting it flat?
Surface area is on the order of 39" X 80" (that's approximately 50mm X 639 deciliters for any FOGers using the worldwide standard  ;D). 

Yes, I'm quite sure I need our friend the RO 90 for the skirt and legs. There's no money at all for that  [dead horse] so I'm just ignoring that aspect of the job. LOL.
Lastly as a tradesman, I'm lucky enough to get paying jobs that feed my green habit. As such, I'm not going to buy a tool, use it, and return it within 30 days. So that's off the table.

So that brings us back to the question of the top. RO 150 versus RS 2 (?).
Any and all advice and experience from someone familiar with one or both sanders is welcome.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.  [popcorn]

Dave

GO GREEN. STAY GREEN.

 

[TCancelleri]

You could buy the sander you, then sell it. I'm willing to bet if you buy a Rotex sander you can sell it for 90% of what you paid for it, as long as it's in great condition.

 

[Daver]

Thanks. I've got it bad.  [eek] If I get a sander I know that I'll 'find' uses for it and wind up keeping it. But I appreciate your insight and if I didn't have the green fever, that would be much more likely. 

 

[AlexThePalex]

A random orbit sander is not the type of sander you want to flatten a table. The round spinning pad has the potential to make it even worse.

The RS2 with it's large flat pad is really the best option of these two for flattening a surface. 

 

[Scott B.]

Dave

We recently completed a rather complex Shaker style cherry farm table strip and refinish. We used Rotex and RS2 on the project.

Here is a video summary of the steps:



As to sander selection, the RS2 is not aggressive enough during the stripping phase. It is a large sander, but short stroke, I have referred to it numerous times as a gigantic RTS400 (for example: http://topcoatreview.com/2013/12/festool-rs2/). The RS2 is awesome. I find it to be a bit of a specialist, though. It does it's job better than any other, but it's skill set is somewhat limited, especially in comparison to the RO150.

If I had to choose between the two, I would definitely choose the RO150. And I would run it in Rotex mode only, in all grits, which could run the range of 80 to 320 or more.

In a perfect world, you should have both sanders. They complement each other extremely well for this type of work.

You will find that the individual boards are probably cupped, which is difficult to completely remedy with any portable power sander.

 

[RobNY]

You could use a router to flatten the top then use a sander to smooth it down for finishing.



-RobNY

 

[waho6o9]

Isn't pine inexpensive compared to time and machine fixing a
mess up?

Ask your client if you can replace the top and make a new one
using blotch control and a finish that will compliment the base
and or one that they like.

I think it would look better and at least something to consider.

To answer your question I'd get the RO150 for your application
and go through the grits as mentioned above.

Good luck now. 

 

[semenza]

  I think you have found the perfect job for needing both of those sanders. Neither one is going to be real good at the others task.  But if you can really only get one, I would choose the RO150. It will be harder to flatten with it but not impossible. Get a couple good long straight edges to put across the table so that you can see the high and low spots. And just work through the job with the RO150. Personally I would rather flatten with the RO150 than strip heavy stain / finish with the RS2.

Seth

 

[waho6o9]

"Get a couple good long straight edges to put across the table so that you can see the high and low spots."

Excellent advice.

Maybe get some pine, stain the heck out of it and see how long it takes to
sand it out and then apply a new stain and see how it looks.
[wink]

 

[leakyroof]

I flattened two Cypress table tops this Summer using my Ro 150 and my RS2.  Cypress is soft like Pine.  The Rotex works through cupped, uneven boards pretty quick, but it can be tiring to use so please be aware of that.
The RS2 can't match the material removal of the Rotex, but I ended up working one top in particular with it after flattening with the Rotex since I  liked  the finish level and look of the boards after running the big 1/2 sheet sander over them.
Tables were basically 30 x 60" if this helps.

 

[Worm Drive]

I think it would be cheaper to fix then build new, especially if it's thick pine. It sounds like the boards have cupped, if plates aren't sitting flat. I have done several similar jobs, with great results. After stripping the finish, I use a 4x24 belt sander with a coarse grit and sand across grain, then moving to diagonally and finally with the grain. Check frequently with a straight edge and don't worry about getting it totally flat across the length or width. I'll sand with the grain up to 120 grit, then switch to a random orbit sander to finish up sanding.

If the bottom side of the table top isn't finished it can cause the boards to cup or warp. I would also check how the top is fastened to the base. If the builder didn't fasten the top in a way that allows for expansion and contraction, that could be causing the problem.

Of course, I'm making some assumptions since I haven't seen the table.

 

[mike_aa]

FWIW, My first Festool project involved finishing a live edge slab for a writing desk.  The slab was fairly flat to begin with, but had bandsaw marks, some areas deeper than others.  I used the RO150 starting at 60 grit and went up to 180 before switching to an ETS150.  Because I had to sand more heavily to remove the deeper marks, I was really concerned that I would not be able to keep it flat.  However, I was really amazed at how fast it went and how well it turned out.  In my case, having the dust extractor on and being able to clearly see your progress as you sand was really helpful to targeting the high spots and feathering everything out.

Mike A.

 

[Daver]

Thanks very much everyone for your replies (and videos). I've read them all a couple of times and it's very helpful to get some perspective.
There are a lot of good points made and I've gained a clearer picture of the RO 150 vs RS 2 comparison.
Much appreciated.
It's probably financially justifiable to strip and refinish but based on the quality of the table, if I have to go further it may make more sense to consider a replacement.

Dave
[thanks]

 

[Brent Taylor]

I know this is a Festool site , but I've had both FT and Makita 1/2 sheet sanders, and currently own the Makita that is made in the UK. Just food for thought take a look at "Askwoodman" vid on the subject. I'm a builder also and know it is hard to balance dollars and sense. B

 

[sae]

I'm currently restoring some hardwood floors in my house, they haven't been touched in probably 60 years.

I only have the RO 150, and it's doing pretty well. I'm using 24-grit Saphir, and it cuts through the material at a good rate of speed. I was belt sanding before this (and making a huge dust storm in my house), and the 24-grit Saphir removes at about the pace 40-grit on the belt sander does. However, it's much "safer" on the RO 150, I have nearly no gouges from using the RO 150, though while belt sanding, I fell asleep a few times and yeah... (it's been THAT kind of project).

With pine, I'd probably just start at 40, I doubt you'd have to go down to 24 like I did.

 

[Stephen B]

I know this is a Festool site , but I've had both FT and Makita 1/2 sheet sanders, and currently own the Makita that is made in the UK. Just food for thought take a look at "Askwoodman" vid on the subject. I'm a builder also and know it is hard to balance dollars and sense. B

[size=12pt]
I own a Makita 1/2 sheet. It certainly does an excellent job and has same pad dust extraction hole pattern as Festool. Given the amount of use, the savings over the R2 [European/Aust equivalent to RS] allowed me to purchase a CXS.