Sanders DTS 400 vs. ETS 150/3 vs. RO90 DX

[hgster14]

I am the owner of a Festool ETS 150/3 and a CT 26 Dust Extractor.  I just purchased the DTS 400 primarily to have the ability to sand into corners and also tackle smaller pieces.  I use the sanders primarily for finish sanding. 

The ETS 150/3 is a random orbit sander and does great finish sanding job (no issues at all).  The DTS 400 is advertised as a orbital sander (not random).  I have subsequently read that orbital sanders can leave small swirl marks on the finished wood surface.  Is that something I should be concerned about?  And is it really all that noticeable? 

Does the new RO 90DX (even though it is larger) solve that problem because it is a random orbital sander?

I am just investigating my possibilities under the 30 day return policy that Festool advertises.

All opinions are welcome.  THANKS

 

[Scott B.]

DTS will do you fine, just turn the extraction rate down. Keep the sander speed up.

 

[hgster14]

Thanks Scott.  I figured out the low suction and high speed for orbital sanding equation.  It kinda freaked me out at first, but did finally get it right.

 

[Scott B.]

Thanks Scott.  I figured out the low suction and high speed for orbital sanding equation.  It kinda freaked me out at first, but did finally get it right.

That, along with grit selection and your technique make it all work. Just keep her floating. The DTS is one of my "can't live without" sanders. I am a daily user.

 

[ear3]

Why does turning down the extraction rate protect against squiggles?

Thanks Scott.  I figured out the low suction and high speed for orbital sanding equation.  It kinda freaked me out at first, but did finally get it right.

That, along with grit selection and your technique make it all work. Just keep her floating. The DTS is one of my "can't live without" sanders. I am a daily user.

 

[Walk On Wood]

Lower suction reduces the down pressure of the sander to the material and allows it to float across the surface.  Also, moving a DTS/RTS in a linear motion in the direction of the grain will reduce/eliminate the squigglies.  I typically finish up stair tread resands with my RTS using 80g Rubin with fantastic results.

 

[Scott B.]

Just to elaborate, the "swirlies" or "squiggles" are not solely a function of your sanding gear.

The products in play, drying conditions, time allowed/required prior to in between coat sanding, and such variables also come into play.

It is important to know the products, how they work best, and also know the gear system side of it. It's not rocket science at all, but if just one of these is out of whack, the whole program can suffer. And the finish is where it shows.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

The DTS is also one of my favorites. I do not skip grits and I will often go higher for a perfect finish. It is one of Festool's gems.

 

[Acrobat]

I have all 3 of these sanders, the DTS gets the most workout as she's such a sweet little thang that gets into most  areas easily. The ETS 150/3 is a beaut for larger flat surfaces as she just floats, the rotex90 is a trickier beast which is useful too but I find I reach for the DTS400 the most, lighter, shorter and gives a great result and very little dust.
I've used the DTS on nearly every project I've done, from window frames to balustrades, fences, cabinets and bookcases, tables etc, great for getting into corners and being lightweight you don't mind continuing sanding for longer periods. I find the rotex an awkward size especially with the hose, longer and a bit heavier although not such a biggie as compared to the other rotexes, but still a factor in where I choose to use it.
I'm going to try use the ETS 150/3 with fine grade Granat paper (for less clogging) on a wall board patch fix I'm doing at a friends place as it's the largest headed sander I have and figure it will be best suited there, as long as its not too heavy going up the wall, otherwise I'll switch again to the DTS400.