Sanding between finish coats: by hand or powertool?

[junk731]

Well, I ended up with a Mirka sanding block and a Festool ETS EC 150 3 mm.  I'm a bit scared of the ETS for my thin oil-varnish blend finish coats however, so I may just end up lightly hand sanding.

Its good that your scared you should be, but time and a few screw ups with power sanding and you will understand better why some of us that do this all the time recommend hand sanding with high grit foam backed paper.

John

 

[#Tee]

0000 steel wool for me

 

[tjbnwi]

0000 steel wool for me

Worse thing you can use with waterborne finishes. Has to be fiberglass or brass wool.

Tom

 

[#Tee]

0000 steel wool for me

Worse thing you can use with waterborne finishes. Has to be fiberglass or brass wool.

Tom

really why?

 

[Holmz]

One can wipe or vacuum the material if there is concern of iron bits left behind...

 

[#Tee]

Ya i normally wipe off the white residue with a tack cloth if the piece calls for it. but most of the time im doing so on a pickled white washed finish so any "defects" just adds to the look if any. ive used it on personal and items sold to friends and family and they didnt see anything to complain about.

 

[Cheese]

Has to be fiberglass or brass wool.

Or stainless steel wool. [smile]

 

[Holmz]

Has to be fiberglass or brass wool.

Or stainless steel wool. [smile]

Electric sheep?
No wonder I cannot sleep...

 

[tjbnwi]

One can wipe or vacuum the material if there is concern of iron bits left behind...

Does not remove embedded pieces of the steel wool.

Tom

 

[rnt80]

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Sanding-S...1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471317911&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+sanding+sponge+pro

I started using these a couple of years ago and would not be without them.  I use the "fine" grade exclusively.  The are perfect for large flat surfaces and for contours/profiles.  I hold onto them even after they don't cut as well because they are perfect for sanding profiles the last time before the final top coat.