Sanding Corian

[Carverr]

Greeting FOG members. I have a question about  Corian counter tops. I had them installed 4 years ago and my wife brought to my attention today small scratches caused by pulling out small appliances. I have a ETS 125,150/5 and a RO90.
    My  question is what would be the best sander for removing scratches on a large area? Also what paper and pad should I use. I've only worked with wood and never a man made product. She wants the counter top bright again and as we all know if Mama isn't happy no one will be happy. Thanks and Happy Holidays

 

[jonny round boy]

Assuming it's not a high gloss finish, then the ETS150 will be the best sander to use. Preferably with a hard pad if you have one. Do you have any coved upstands, or a waterfall edge anywhere? If so then you'll need a softer pad for those areas.

You will find it almost impossible to sand just the damaged areas & blend them in - you will need to sand the entire surface.

 

[GarryMartin]

Good advice from Jonny.

I found the below Technical Document a little while ago and it has excellent information in it; specific to Festool tools and abrasives too!  [smile]

http://cdukltd.co.uk/uploads/download/20130517124030_tech_bulletin.pdf

You should also take a look at the Corian Colours page, find your colour, and then take a look at the fabricating or finishing bulletins as applicable because different colours and finishes (matte, semi-gloss and gloss) require subtlety different approaches.

http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/construction-materials/surface-design-materials/brands/corian-solid-surfaces/products/corian-all-colors.html

Hope this helps.

Garry

 

[nclemmons]

Just yesterday, I sanded a Corian counter with an RO90 and used Granat all the way up to 1000.  Counter was installed about 14 years ago and had some slight scratches from ceramic plant containers.  It was in a laundry room.  The RO90 and Granat really worked well.  I started at 400 and went up to 1000.  I did wet sand the last couple of abrasive grits.  Took all the micro scratches out.  The counter was an off-white color.

neil

 

[Scott B.]

Just yesterday, I sanded a Corian counter with an RO90 and used Granat all the way up to 1000.  Counter was installed about 14 years ago and had some slight scratches from ceramic plant containers.  It was in a laundry room.   The RO90 and Granat really worked well.  I started at 400 and went up to 1000.  I did wet sand the last couple of abrasive grits.  Took all the micro scratches out.  The counter was an off-white color.

neil

Good to know. Thanks for sharing that, Neil.

 

[Carverr]

Thanks for all the replies. That's why I love this site so many skilled and knowledgeable people. The sub I normally use on my jobs moved to Texas so thought I'd try it myself.
      It is a matte finish and there are so many fine scratches I'll just sand the entire surface. I'll post some pictures once its done.
    Thanks again for the replies and the great links. Happy holidays

 

[Sparktrician]

Before you start, be sure to clean the countertop surface very carefully and use a 50-50 mix of water and denatured alcohol in a spray bottle to get any cleaner residue off the material. 

It's important when you start sanding to remember to damp-wipe the countertop material between abrasive grits so that you remove any residual dust which is at the same grit as the previous abrasive before moving to the next higher grit. 

It's also important to let the tool do the work.  By this I mean let the abrasives and the sander do their work without forcing them.  Light fingertip pressure to guide the sander is about all you need.  Much more pressure will scratch the surface you're trying to smooth. 

One thing to consider is the need to tape off adjacent surfaces to prevent damage from the edge of the abrasive discs as they do their work.  Blue painter's tape releases easily, but is not resistant to being penetrated by the abrasive discs.  Aluminum duct tape resists penetration well, but is a booger to remove.  I combine the two for best results.  First I put on a layer of blue tape, then a second layer of aluminum duct tape over top of the blue tape.  I get the easy release of the blue tape and the protection of the aluminum tape.  In some cases, I use the aluminum tape by itself, but instead of removing all of the paper backing, I fold back maybe 25% of the backing so it does its job of protecting the adjacent surface while being far easier to remove at the end of the job. 

I've attached my version of the document that Steve Bace distributes at the Solid Surface class in Henderson.  My additions are minimal and have to do with holding the sander very lightly.  YMMV. 

 

[jonny round boy]

It's important when you start sanding to remember to damp-wipe the countertop material between abrasive grits so that you remove any residual dust which is at the same grit as the previous abrasive before moving to the next higher grit. 

I don't think that's necessary if you're using decent extraction, but it won't do any harm if you do do it.

 

[Bob Wolfe]

You can also buff out shallow scratches with Scotchbrite pads. Start with red, then gray and on to white, I use the pads under my 150 in the rotary mode at a slower speed, but all the suggested methods also work. I am a long ways from any Festool dealer but can get the scotchbrite pads from my local autobody supplier.  I always move in a clockwise rotation. You can wet sand to a high shine with Festool pads 3000 and up. Higher the shine, higher the maintenance.

 

[mdverhelle]

IM LOOKING TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF SAND PAPPER TO USE ON CORRAN COUNTER TOP TO REMOVE SCRATCHES AND BRING BACK TO A SEMI GLOSS FINISH I HAVE A RO 125 AND A RO 150 FESTOOL SANDERS WHAT WOULD BE THE PROCESS

THANKS MIKE

 

[Sparktrician]

IM LOOKING TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF SAND PAPPER TO USE ON CORRAN COUNTER TOP TO REMOVE SCRATCHES AND BRING BACK TO A SEMI GLOSS FINISH I HAVE A RO 125 AND A RO 150 FESTOOL SANDERS WHAT WOULD BE THE PROCESS

THANKS MIKE

There's a guide attached to this message above.  Suggest that you download and digest the guidance therein.  [smile]

 

[kevinculle]

I made the top of my main workbench in the shop out the remains of a Corian peninsula that was removed from our previous home when we redid the kitchen and went with quartz.  The Corian was in service in the house for about 20 years and has been in the bench for about 4 years.  I periodically go over it starting with 120 grit and stepping through 150, 180, 200 and 320 as I like a matte finish.  I then go over it with Howard's Feed-n-Wax.  It has held up very well.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Corian is going to do what it wants....
If you polish it too high, you will scratch it up. If you leave it at a matte finish, everyday use (and cleaning) will polish it. The areas most used will always be noticeable to some degree.
As mentioned earlier, the color makes a big difference. White ( there are many whites) and light colors with a particulate pattern are the most forgiving. The darker you get, takes much more care in the initial sanding, no grit skipping and cleaning between grits is required.

We just started a huge job with a color called Hot. It's a solid primary red. Very striking and probably polarizing. Some will like it, some will hate it. I think it's cool because it's so different, but wouldn't want to live with it in my house. I'll get some pics tomorrow.