Well after much experimentation I have come to the conclusion that the stroke on the RO is too much for fir. I tried every fifty percent and twenty five percent on the CT going through the full sequence in orbital mode and rotex mode. Tried it with different power levels on the rotex, tried it with mikka screens (which are awesome by the way) and every combination in between that came to mind. I was very careful to make sure the sander was always floating, with no down pressure and through all of it still couldn't make the hooks go away. With certain sequences I could keep it fairly minimal and isolated to the hard grain but enough to make me wary of putting a finish on. So now the question, is the ETS 150/3 the solution and is it worth the price tag. I'm honestly a bit disappointed in the RO not living up to the bill of do it all super sander ( knew it was too good to be true).
Sanding fir with the RO 150
- Thread starter CNSmith
- Start date
In my 39 years of experience (I started young) :
I have found that most of the time, any piece of machinery that is advertised as a "do it all" might do one phase top notch. All other operations are generally doable, but far from perrrfection.
With Festoys, I don't find any one of their toys can do everything to perfection for all who use them. I do find their full line (as far as I have gotten into the system, which is not nearly as deep as with some FOGgers) There is generally a tool to cover what ever is needed for any specific operation.
For my shop and level of expertise, i have the RO 150, the LR 130 and the Delta 93. I have some various sanding blocks that I use with fine grit papers and sanding sponges. The sanding blocks and sanding sponges get me thru the very fine work. I use the power toys up thru about 220 grit. The 220 gives me so far as good as I need. I use the sanding pads mostly where it is too difficult to get with the peer tools.
Somebody mentioned using a plane for fine finish. I recently did a table for a member of family. I started out using my ancient DW 734. That has always left nearly invisible scallops across the board. It was the old 2 cutter model. Not bad finish, but always needed some sanding. When I started planing Hard maple for the top, the DW decided it needed a vacation and just quit. I investigated the problem and decided I could not meet my deadline if i repaired it. Called my friends at ToolNut and they just happened to still have a new 3 blader (on sale) in stock. The last one for that sale. I grabbed it and put it to work right away. WOW!!! What a smooth finish. Every board came out as smooth as glass. I have never worked on wood with such a smooth surface. I was not sure how the finish would work, so I sanded the top side of the wood with 220 Granat to scratch it up a little. I don't know if that was necessary, but i felt better.
Tinker
I have found that most of the time, any piece of machinery that is advertised as a "do it all" might do one phase top notch. All other operations are generally doable, but far from perrrfection.With Festoys, I don't find any one of their toys can do everything to perfection for all who use them. I do find their full line (as far as I have gotten into the system, which is not nearly as deep as with some FOGgers) There is generally a tool to cover what ever is needed for any specific operation.
For my shop and level of expertise, i have the RO 150, the LR 130 and the Delta 93. I have some various sanding blocks that I use with fine grit papers and sanding sponges. The sanding blocks and sanding sponges get me thru the very fine work. I use the power toys up thru about 220 grit. The 220 gives me so far as good as I need. I use the sanding pads mostly where it is too difficult to get with the peer tools.
Somebody mentioned using a plane for fine finish. I recently did a table for a member of family. I started out using my ancient DW 734. That has always left nearly invisible scallops across the board. It was the old 2 cutter model. Not bad finish, but always needed some sanding. When I started planing Hard maple for the top, the DW decided it needed a vacation and just quit. I investigated the problem and decided I could not meet my deadline if i repaired it. Called my friends at ToolNut and they just happened to still have a new 3 blader (on sale) in stock. The last one for that sale. I grabbed it and put it to work right away. WOW!!! What a smooth finish. Every board came out as smooth as glass. I have never worked on wood with such a smooth surface. I was not sure how the finish would work, so I sanded the top side of the wood with 220 Granat to scratch it up a little. I don't know if that was necessary, but i felt better.
Tinker
Holmz
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,001
As you said your $50 Bosch was performing better, then you have one possible answer.
You could just return the difficult one, and buy a couple more of the Mirka pads for the Bosch.
[member=550]Tinker[/member] RO150, LS130, and DX93...
(Jez) You have a geometry class there... (planes , lines, triangles). You seem to have the difficult stuff covered.
I have the 93, and keep awaiting a need to justify a linear 130.
You could just return the difficult one, and buy a couple more of the Mirka pads for the Bosch.
[member=550]Tinker[/member] RO150, LS130, and DX93...
(Jez) You have a geometry class there... (planes , lines, triangles). You seem to have the difficult stuff covered.
I have the 93, and keep awaiting a need to justify a linear 130.
Holmz said:
@ Holmz I seldom use the LS 130 on large surfaces. I utilize a lot of cutoffs and small scraps for smaller projects such as lazy susans and serving trays. The RO 150 seems a little large for the final finish on those projects and the LS 130 seems to work a little better for those situations. I also can work out the swirls with lower grits on those small jobs. The bigger jobs, I almost never go to the linear sander. One of the reasins I got that toy was to do along shaped edges but have found that I can do just as quickly with sanding blocks and foam pads. I do use it less than I thought I wood, but when I need it, it is there.
Tinker
