sanding/grinding down unmodified thin-set mortar

I know I do not post here much, but I have to comment on this one. You are all working way to hard.

All you need to use is a rub brick;

http://www.marshalltown.com/Products.aspx?D=200&S=219

There are times power tools are not the correct answer.

Thinset is not as hard as brick mortar or concrete. If you wet to surface as you rub it will create a slurry that can be washed off. You can use the brick dry also, it will kick up very little dust. The dust it produces can be vacuumed up when you are complete. Also try wetting the surface and just use a scraper, thinset is not water proof, and will soften when wet. Do not soak the floor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Either way you must wash the floor prior to any other products being used.

As for the mat it is repairable in place if need be. You should put a tatletale on the leads just to be certain it has not been damaged, it will alert you if you damage it during the next phase; (there are others on the market, this is the one I use)

http://www.nuheat.com/products/accessories/matsense-pro.html

On my installs, I always pour self leveling compound over the elements, then Ditra, then tile. Most floors need some leveling work and thinset should never be used as a leveling product. The SLC also protects the elements from possible trowel damage.

Two to three hours you will be done.

By the way there should be no power to the mat at this point, not enough mass to keep it from over heating.

Once you're done you will really enjoy the floor.

I'll go back to sitting in the corner now, soaking up all the [festool] knowledge that is presented here.

Tom 

 
Stop wasting time and killing yourself. If the existing bed is sound, scrape off any high spots and fill the voids with a compatible leveling compound. Jifset or whatever you use in your area. You are talking about 1/16", there is no point to removing it, fill the voids and get the job done. I've done this job more times than I can remember. If the bed is sound, go forward, not back.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to try that as well.  The elements are burried in SLC so there is some margin for error.  The margin gets smaller with the larger power tools.  I have 5 splice kits just in case.  The wires are hooked up to the loudmouth continuity meters and I check the Ohms readings religiously- i'm ok so far.  Do they sell rub bricks at any big box stores?
 
I know you probably don't want to buy another sander but the RAS 115 with 36 grit or 24 grit might work.  It works differently than the Rotex.  There is a thread here somewhere about the RAS 115.
 
The rub brick/stone is working!!! Can't tell you how happy I am. Thank you everyone!
 
Congratulations on finding a method that works.  Reminds me of removing the old ceramic tiles from my concrete slab without the having to be careful part.  ;D

Mark
 
Those stones are pretty amazing. I have one that I got from my Dad when he was still of this Earth. I used it as a kid on more than one project, including preparing a 2-stall garage for painting. The one I got from him is broken in half but it doesn't seem to have impacted its utility.

I have used it since to even out some green concrete when setting a tub. They require brute force but are totally controllable, work well, and don't raise a lot of dust - plus they are good exercise.

Tom
 
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