SANDING LEAD PAINT ON PLASTER WALLS

[ipe]

I've recently purchased an ETS 150 and a ROTEX RO90. I'm trying to remove lead paint on my plaster walls. I'm using Granat 40. It's taking a very long time to remove the layers of paint down to the plaster. ~15minutes for a 1' square patch. I feel like it's not getting a good bite on the wall, just making it suer smooth even with the 40 GRIT.

It also clogs up my vacuum Midi bags super quick. At this rate, I'd have to go through a box of Granat 40 (50x) and probably ten vacuum bags to do a small room.

Am I doing this wrong? Should I be using another technique?

When I sand paint that is on wood, it also takes time, but not nearly as much.
When I sand straight wood, the sanders chews through material super fast. It's amazing. Isn't wood tougher than some paint?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Both sanders you have are not really up to this task. The ETS150 is not aggressive enough, and the RO90 is simply too small.

Some lead paints can be very hard, harder than wood and with those it's difficult to tear through the surface. A chemical stripper might work, but it will still gonna take a long time. At least try to scrape away as much as possible before sanding/stripping.

A bigger sander like the RO150 or RAS115 would be a lot better for this. Or perhaps a wall sander like the Planex, though I have no idea how aggressive it actually is. 

 

[mwildt]

Alex is correct. Not the right sanders for the job. Pads are not big enough.

If the plaster is 'veneer' plaster its very hard then you could consider using a soy based paint stripper (search for soy-gel). I have a pending project like that my self. Brush it on, let sit for a while then scrape off. Fairly easy and faster than sanding. Plus the finished product will end up being more smooth than sanding.

You'll also be able to contain any lead contamination easier this way too.

On another note skip ideas of installing wall sconces since they will highlight any imperfections if the wall is not perfectly flat.

 

[BostonMike]

I have horsehair plaster walls in my house...I just threw up some wall board right over them...easier to start fresh

 

[ipe]

I have to admit, I'm dissapointed to hear this. I bought the marketing and the sales pitch. Hook line and sinker.

I'll look into spending another $600 on a RO150 and report back my findings.

Also, do you think vacuum speed or sander speed has anything to do with the results?

 

[orm8426]

I have horsehair plaster walls in my house...I just threw up some wall board right over them...easier to start fresh

This is what I would do, or just put a skim coat over the existing surface, you may need to apply some form of sealer first.

For wood (door casing, base board, etc) I'd use a heat gun to remove the bulk of the paint and then your RO90 to finish them off.

 

[elfick]

I have to admit, I'm dissapointed to hear this. I bought the marketing and the sales pitch. Hook line and sinker.

Out of curiosity, what marketing or sales pitch led you to believe those were the right tools for the job?

 

[ipe]

The gentlemen I purchased them from. The retailers/resellers said that these would be good tools to do the job.

It's just frustrating to look at your bottom line and see that you've spent $790+plus tax on sanders, plus a couple hundred on sand paper and be told that these aren't up to snuff and that another sander (RO150) may be the ticket.

I'll give it a try, but if it doesn't work am I allowed to return the item if used? What's Festool policy on that.

 

[BostonMike]

Thirty day return policy

 

[waho6o9]

RAS is the only sander/grinder that's efficient

 

[elfick]

The gentlemen I purchased them from. The retailers/resellers said that these would be good tools to do the job.

It's just frustrating to look at your bottom line and see that you've spent $790+plus tax on sanders, plus a couple hundred on sand paper and be told that these aren't up to snuff and that another sander (RO150) may be the ticket.

I'll give it a try, but if it doesn't work am I allowed to return the item if used? What's Festool policy on that.

Ouch. Yah, I can definitely understand being upset. Personally I think your dealer led you astray for this task.

FWIW, those sanders are awesome, just not for what you are trying to do. If you are dead-set on sanding for this job, I'd suggest returning the ETS 150 and getting a RO150 from a different dealer. That would preserve your abrasive investment and give you a sander that is better suited to the job. It won't be as aggressive as the RAS, but you'll be able to use the 150 paper and it will be useful for a wider range of jobs than the RAS. You may want to look at the more aggressive abrasives like Saphir.

That being said, I think the other suggestions are better than sanding. The stripper suggestion sounds particularly promising.

As mentioned, the USA return policy is 30 days for the machines, but I don't think that applies to abrasives which would be subject to your dealer's return policy.

 

[ipe]

Thanks for the input, it's appreciated.

Does the vacuum speed and/or spinning speed make a difference? I read somewhere that spinning too fast can cause the paint to melt, and that too high a suction can slow down the spin. If this is true, then is it best to use a high suction with a slow spin speed?

 

[Brent Taylor]

I have had to do this same job several times, I  went with sealing the wall first , then float a new top coat. If you have not done plastering before you may want to try a method that I use now  (because I have not found a yard that carries plastering supplies in my new area.)mix 4 scoops of  dirabond and 1 part sanded grout, mix it wet (like whipped cream ) and float it on the wall.  If the mix is too open for your liking you can do a topcoat of drywall compound or dirabond. I like it because it dries faster and can be sanded. I use this method for regular drywall also because it makes the joints stronger and I can finish in fewer coats. Another advantage is you can use coloured grout and not have to paint and also do different textures like in traditional plastering. You can use what ever set time dirabond suit your needs or skill level, if you haven't done much drywall finishing I would go with 90 minute maximum  or even  slower, it setup faster than dirabond alone. 

 

[ipe]

I imagine in your case the paint was in good condition so you sealed and top coated with your method? I have Lead paint and was hoping to get rid of it entirely. It's for a nursery and the paint is chipping, cracked, and the plaster needs some mesh tape and joint compound as well.

Getting rid of as much paint (ideally down to the plaster with no old paint) before I do the repair seems like a good way to prevent further cracking on top of old? Your thoughts?

 

[Cheese]

[member=37891]Brent Taylor[/member]
A very interesting idea, why did you choose sanded grout as opposed to some other material? For texture maybe?

If it has a consistency of whipped cream, doesn't it run or at least sag upon application?

Let's say you use 90 minute Durabond®, what is the new set time with the addition of grout?

 

[Brent Taylor]

I imagine in your case the paint was in good condition so you sealed and top coated with your method? I have Lead paint and was hoping to get rid of it entirely. It's for a nursery and the paint is chipping, cracked, and the plaster needs some mesh tape and joint compound as well.

Getting rid of as much paint (ideally down to the plaster with no old paint) before I do the repair seems like a good way to prevent further cracking on top of old? Your thoughts?

I was wondering if you were doing a child's room, one of the biggest problem with lead is the dust,even with the best tools and techniques you still risk it getting into the environment.  One thing I would recommend is to get rid of the trim (any thing mouthable at least ) ,if you're home is in a  historic area, save it and have it stripped, then when you're children are of the age to stop chewing on things put the trim back up. Walls are not typically considered mouthable. (Things maybe different in your area ).
As for cracking issues, if it's really bad,strip it to the studs and start a new.  If you have small areas, you can reinforce it with washered screws and cover the area with mesh (I have to use bug screen because I can't find it in my area ). The mesh I'm talking about is similar to taping mesh,but in wider rolls, most good drywall yards can get it for you. Mud over that, but seal the wall any way.

 

[Brent Taylor]

[member=37891]Brent Taylor[/member]
A very interesting idea, why did you choose sanded grout as opposed to some other material? For texture maybe?

If it has a consistency of whipped cream, doesn't it run or at least sag upon application?

Let's say you use 90 minute Durabond®, what is the new set time with the addition of grout?

I used the grout because it was handy and gave me the thickness that I need to make a stronger mix. Ando yes it can be used to texture and colour.  Does drywall compound fall off the wall, same difference. About 20 minutes, I used to be faster, but age and pain I've slowed down.  I use it because I can stop and stop when I need to. 

 

[Cheese]

I used the grout because it was handy and gave me the thickness that I need to make a stronger mix. Ando yes it can be used to texture and colour.  Does drywall compound fall off the wall, same difference. About 20 minutes, I used to be faster, but age and pain I've slowed down.  I use it because I can stop and stop when I need to. 

Interesting how much faster the Durabond cures with the addition of grout.

My error on the run/sag issue. I was thinking of whipping cream the liquid as opposed to whipped cream the final product...oops.