Sanding Raised Door Panel Profiles

[Mike Goetzke]

I hate hand sanding the raised panel profiles especially the end grain ones. In the past I have done this mostly by hand sanding. I now have a Rotex and ETS 150/3 and was wondering if I purchased a soft pad for the ETS if this would help in the sanding of an ogee raised panel profile.

Thanks

 

[danrush]

Mike, You may be able to use the sanders that you mentioned, but I would worry about rounding the edges of the profiles.  I would suggest the ls130.  I really like the linear action of this sander.  I use it quite often when finishing the boats as it allows me to not mess up edges.

Dan

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

I would go with a 130 and perhaps a custom made profile pad to match your raised panel profile.  This would seem to be the most efficient way as you would be sanding the entire profile at one time.  There are some larger production-type machines to do this type of sanding but they are specialized and cost a lot  of $$$ compared to the 130.

Best,
Todd

 

[woodshopdemos]

I will stay away from the sanding side...but you should be able to come close to "sand free" with sharp panel cutters. Make your final pass one hair less than final and then follow with a pass with the cutter set right on. If you have to make even another pass.  I dont care whether it is oak, mahogany of particle core board, you should be abe to get ready to assemble ready and finish doors. Every pass you make should net you a tiny bit of finishing. So if you are tired of making "final passes", dont be - they are saving you sanding time.

 

[Mike Goetzke]

I will stay away from the sanding side...but you should be able to come close to "sand free" with sharp panel cutters. Make your final pass one hair less than final and then follow with a pass with the cutter set right on. If you have to make even another pass.  I dont care whether it is oak, mahogany of particle core board, you should be abe to get ready to assemble ready and finish doors. Every pass you make should net you a tiny bit of finishing. So if you are tired of making "final passes", dont be - they are saving you sanding time.

Thanks. I'll have too look at the panels closer tonight. I may have done this without knowing it. I'm working on back-to-back panels for an entry door project and crept up on the final depth of cut slowly to get a nice fit in the stile/rail grooves.

That profile sander looks a little pricey for one job (plus it doesn't seem to get stellar reviews), but, I do have a full kitchen project with tons of cabinet doors next after this entrance door is completed.

Mike

 

[DavidW]

Mike, I would agree with the above two posts. I would add that if you can, sand your ramps before assembly and sand two grits higher on the end grain if its a stain job.
David

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

Having a stock feeder and being able to climb cut also helps a lot, but most people don't invest in a stock feeder.

Personally I think it is one of my best woodworking purchases...superior results and added safety for way less than a trip to the emergency room.

Best,
Todd

 

[jvsteenb]

I will stay away from the sanding side...but you should be able to come close to "sand free" with sharp panel cutters. Make your final pass one hair less than final and then follow with a pass with the cutter set right on. If you have to make even another pass.  I dont care whether it is oak, mahogany of particle core board, you should be abe to get ready to assemble ready and finish doors. Every pass you make should net you a tiny bit of finishing. So if you are tired of making "final passes", dont be - they are saving you sanding time.

Very true. In my experience buying the largest possible diameter bit(-set) that sports your specific profile helps a lot as well.

Regards,

Job