Sanding sequence advice for stripping finished cabinets

[Fremore]

Hi Everyone,

I've had an ETS 125 for about 5 years now and just bought an RO 90 DX in preparation for refinishing some kitchen cabinet doors that I refinished about 5 years ago with a stain and water based polyurethane.  They were/are in terrible condition, but it's a rental so I have no choice at the moment.  I never got around to finishing the frames.  My refinishing experience is very limited. 

This time, I wish to prime them with Benjamin Moore Fresh Start and paint them with Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo. I've ordered abrasives for the ETS 125 and RO 90 DX in the sanding sequence of 80-120-150-180 and then 220 between primer and first coat, and finally 320 for between first and second finish coats. The guy at my local Benjamin Moore was telling me that I should start with 100 instead of 80 so that I don't lose the detail in my cabinets. I have already ordered the 80.  Before I drop more $$$ for 100 grit, is there really a big difference between starting the sanding sequence on finished cabinets with 100 or 80? I've not yet found much information on the differences between 80 and 100 that applies to refinishing cabinets with some detail.

Finally, if it's ok to start at 80, is it then OK to jump to 120? Or should I not skip any like I've been reading?

Thank you for any help!  [wink]

 

[Mort]

If it were me I'd start with the 120 and if that doesn't give you the desired result, jump back down to 80.

I don't think I even own any 100 grit and I have a lot of sanders.

 

[Fremore]

If it were me I'd start with the 120 and if that doesn't give you the desired result, jump back down to 80.

I don't think I even own any 100 grit and I have a lot of sanders.

Thank you for your advice! I have been hoping I didn't need to buy more abrasives

 

[roblg3]

All that's needed is enough sanding to give the surface a consistent smooth surface and leave enough "tooth" for your primer to adhere well. It's not necessary to remove the previous finish since the new finish is compatible ( both water based). Scuff the gloss off and prime away. The highest grit paper that quickly removes the shine is what I'd do. 180 or higher should be sufficient.

 

[Fremore]

All that's needed is enough sanding to give the surface a consistent smooth surface and leave enough "tooth" for your primer to adhere well. It's not necessary to remove the previous finish since the new finish is compatible ( both water based). Scuff the gloss off and prime away. The highest grit paper that quickly removes the shine is what I'd do. 180 or higher should be sufficient.

Thanks Rob! I should have mentioned that although my previous finish was a General Finishes water-based polyurethane, this Benjamin Moore Satin Impero is oil-based, as well as the Fresh Start primer. Does that matter when following your direction to not worry about removing all of the previous finish and to just scuff? I really appreciate your time to help me *the novice* out! 

 

[roblg3]

I can't say if that's ok or not. There should be a primer that goes over latex that will be a suitable base for oil. I never use oil based paint.

 

[Fremore]

I can't say if that's ok or not. There should be a primer that goes over latex that will be a suitable base for oil. I never use oil based paint.

Ok, thanks. I guess that I will not buy nor try 80 to start out with and go first with a higher grit since that seems to be a consensus and see where I am at after the back of my first cabinet door.  I don't really have anything to lose since it's a rental that is in some ways in bad shape, but I have a detail-oriented nature. Thanks again!  [wink]

 

[tjbnwi]

Wash the cabinets very well, scuff snd enough to gloss, clean again, Fresh Start will work just fine over the poly.

You don't need to get carried away with the sanding. 180 would be what I use.

You can use liquid sandpaper if you don't feel like sanding.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

What is "liquid sandpaper"? I've never used it and just don't know anything about it.

 

[Fremore]

Wash the cabinets very well, scuff snd enough to gloss, clean again, Fresh Start will work just fine over the poly.

You don't need to get carried away with the sanding. 180 would be what I use.

You can use liquid sandpaper if you don't feel like sanding.

Tom

Thank you Tom! I will give this (180) a try first, which is what I originally did on the cabinets 5 years ago before applying the gel stain and polyurethane, but after stripping the old poly off, which looks not too different than the liquid sandpaper you advised. I always try to follow work smarter, not harder, which is why I joined FOG, so I am very grateful for all of the advice.  I don't want this job to be more involved than necessary.  I think I was watching too many (Festool) sanding videos on YouTube, which probably makes more sense if I were starting with raw materials!  [eek] I'm thinking specifically of the video with Larry Smith of Festool, who used about 10 different abrasives on his sample! [wink]

 

[tjbnwi]

What is "liquid sandpaper"? I've never used it and just don't know anything about it.

It deglosses and tooths the surface.

I noticed in my original post it the word gloss is in it instead of degloss.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-qt-Easy-Liquid-Sander-QWN285/100112667

Tom

 

[Pnw painter]

Unless you're trying to remove the wood grain my process is very similar to Tom's.

1) Wipe them with Krud Kutter DeGlosser
2) Sand and with 180 grit to remove nibs, runs, etc...
3) Sand with Festool Viles 100. It's similar to a scotchbrite pad and does an excellent job of scuff sanding

Also, have you thought about using Waterbased primer and paint? If not you should seriously consider this.

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