Sanding to 220 question

[Thompmd]

I tried sanding to 1200 and love the feel/finish but don’t think my finish is deep enough due to closing the wood pores.

I’ve started sanding to 220 and applied 2 coats the. Sanding at 1200 then adding the final coat.

Has anyone else done this? Seems to work

 

[luvmytoolz]

Depends what type of finish you're using. I use Cabot's Danish Oil a lot on woodwork sanding up to 400grit, and buffing with 0000 steel wool inbetween the many coats. For some of the finishes like Osmo or Rubio they recommend not to go over 120-180grit generally to get better absorption.

Personally I've never been happy with any surface sanded below 220-240grit.

Maybe check the finish suppliers recommendations.

 

[Mini Me]

Sand and apply the first coat, use wet & dry to sand between the subsequent coats by lightly wetting the surface with a spray bottle, don't flood the surface and you will be amazed at the results. I would test finish on an off cut or something similar if you are unsure.

 

[Thompmd]

Thanks for the replies, I personally think there is a large difference in the finish from 220 to 1,200 . I use general finishes Arm-R-Seal. I’ve never tried set sanding of any kind.

Silly question but I assume I use the spray bottle and water and I assume I’d still use my Rotex and sandpaper the same as always then let dry before I add another coat or is there so little moisture it doesn’t matter?

I used to use Odies but imo it had a tendency to yellow the sap on Walnut and I like the contrast.

Thanks

 

[peacefulandpatriotically]

Thanks for the replies, I personally think there is a large difference in the finish from 220 to 1,200 . I use general finishes Arm-R-Seal.

certain woods finish much better with high grit progressions.  Certainly, there is a big difference in finish of 220 compared with 1200 grit sanding however its recommended to progress through a few lower grits first before finishing at something like 1200.  phrased another way, 220 to 1200 is a large jump in grit

 

[jeffinsgf]

I think Sedge said it well in one of his videos. Sand the wood to 180 (or call it 220). Anything finer than that you should sand the finish, not the wood. I believe his sequence went 320 between coats, then a progression of fine grits on the cured finish, ending with the Festool polishing compounds.

 

[Thompmd]

I’ve not tried any of their polishing compounds?

 

[woodferret]

I’ve started sanding to 220 and applied 2 coats the. Sanding at 1200 then adding the final coat.

That's poor bonding on the last coat.  It's a urethane and tolerates about #400 (or 0000).  Note that this is not a burn-in finish.  Their instructions is #320 between coats for good reason.

While buffing is not recommended due to thinness of layers, some people claim to have success with it.  They never mention how thick they've slopped it on.
Mileage may vary.

If you like 1200-feel, use something else.

 

[Mini Me]

Experiment, experiment, experiment, get some wood and try different methods. The method I outlined above works on the wood I use and the climate I live in and the products I use. It does not cost much or take much time to have a play with different methods using the products you already have or want to use. For instance I hand finish between coats as it generally takes very little effort to knock down the previous coat as I feel machine finishing between coats is way to aggressive but that is just me, I can't give any technical reason for that but I always get a good durable result that has been proven over the years. Sedge says this or that and he may be right for him but not for someone who lives in a different climate and can't access the same products or timbers, you are after durability as much as a nice visual result.

 

[Thompmd]

Thanks for that but if I’m being honest I don’t experiment much but should . I just don’t have the patience.

I sell enough Walnut to pay for my wood/equipment etc and a little more. That being said I should experiment more but simply don’t . I’m satisfied with the 1200 grit finish a will probably just stay with that. I very much appreciate the wealth of experience and knowledge here and have gotten a lot of good advice and has opened my eyes to things I just had t thought about

 

[Packard]

I often go to 600 grit for clear finishes.  My first coat is a wipe on application of SealCoat, a very low viscosity finish that absorbs into the wood.  I usually use wipe on (50% oil based poly & 50% mineral spirits).  The first coat seems also to soak in.  I don’t see a film surface until the 3rd coat usually. 

For wear surfaces (horizontal surfaces usually), I usually apply 6 - 8 coats + butchers’ wax.

I also have read that too high a grit sanding paper has an adverse impact on the finish.  I have not found that to be true about thinner finishes like SealCoat and wipe on poly.

 

[Mini Me]

My experience is that the initial coat has to be absorbed into the wood so a fine finish is not a good idea as it prevents the initial coat getting into the wood. As more coats are applied stepping up through the grits is a good idea until you get the finish you want. Wet and dry paper does not seem to be widely used in woodworking but after the wood is sealed it works well and gives excellent results in my experience.