Sanding w/ RAS115 without brush insert?

[worldburger]

I'm on a job to remove/level some 5" wide boards between stucco panels on a home. The boards have alligatored paint ranging from small patches to the entire board.

The RAS is challenging to lay flat on the wood and get a consistent surface w the coarse grit (Saphir 24+50) not occasionally ingesting the  wood adjacent thats been scrapped.

It feels like the brush insert keeps one side of the pad elevated above the wood surface. It feels like I'm fighting the RAS's brushes. This is especially noticeable when using a back and forth movement and the brushes are flopping back and forth.

The house was built 100+ years so Lead/dust collection is a priority which makes me weary of removing the brush insert.

Suggestions on how to get it flat? Is it advisable to run the RAS without the brush insert?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Welcome to the forum!

When dealing with lead paint, the RRP guidelines state that the tool must have a shroud. The RAS has a shroud in the form of those brushes. So, removing them would be a violation.

I suspect your RAS is brand new and the brushes haven't "broken in". With some use, they will better conform to the surface you're sanding.

Other forum members might have other recommendations.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I'm on a job to remove/level some 5" wide boards between stucco panels on a home. The boards have alligatored paint ranging from small patches to the entire board.

The RAS is challenging to lay flat on the wood and get a consistent surface w the coarse grit (Saphir 24+50) not occasionally ingesting the  wood adjacent thats been scrapped.

It feels like the brush insert keeps one side of the pad elevated above the wood surface. It feels like I'm fighting the RAS's brushes. This is especially noticeable when using a back and forth movement and the brushes are flopping back and forth.

The house was built 100+ years so Lead/dust collection is a priority which makes me weary of removing the brush insert.

Suggestions on how to get it flat? Is it advisable to run the RAS without the brush insert?

You really don't want to run an abrasive disk that coarse flat on the board. You'll get bad circular scratches that way. To keep the scratches parallel to the wood grain only place a little of the disk on the wood and keep moving the disk from top to bottom of the board as you progress laterally. You only want to cut down the high spots with that grit.

When that is done go back with a less aggressive grit. At that time you can let more of the disk ride the board without getting bad scratches. With practice you'll figure out how to pre-bend the brush before tipping the abrasive down to the work.

 

[worldburger]

I suspect your RAS is brand new and the brushes haven't "broken in". With some use, they will better conform to the surface you're sanding.

Thanks, Shane. Any suggestions on how I could hasten the break in process without damaging the brushes?

 

[worldburger]

You really don't want to run an abrasive disk that coarse flat on the board. You'll get bad circular scratches that way. To keep the scratches parallel to the wood grain only place a little of the disk on the wood and keep moving the disk from top to bottom of the board as you progress laterally. You only want to cut down the high spots with that grit.

When that is done go back with a less aggressive grit. At that time you can let more of the disk ride the board without getting bad scratches. With practice you'll figure out how to pre-bend the brush before tipping the abrasive down to the work.

Thanks, Michael. Great suggestions!

I failed to mention the wood & stucco is only on the 2nd story and up to the 3rd story dormers. From what I've seen, the scratches seem to be small enough for primer & paint, but duly noted

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Thanks, Shane. Any suggestions on how I could hasten the break in process without damaging the brushes?

Other than just using it...

Consider sitting the sander in a position where the pad is flat overnight and place something with some weight on top of it. That may help the brushes conform the flat surface.

It's it's particularly problematic, you may trim the brushes very slightly. Replacement brushes are available. http://festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/sanders/other-accessories/brush-insert-plastic-484727

 

[AlexThePalex]

Before everybody forgets, the RAS is not meant to be used flat. You should not attempt to use it that way.

The RAS is for fast paint removal, not for finish sanding. The proper way to use the RAS is to slightly tilt it and touch the surface with one side of the disk while aligning the brushes in such a way that they catch the stream of dust.

And yes, unfortunately, that way you're going to leave a rough surface. You can't have it both ways, it's either fast paint removal, or the slower finish sanding process. A Rotex offers a nice compromise for that, it can do both, but it's no where near as fast at paint removal as the RAS. You will need another sander to get a nice flat finish. A Rotex sander or an ETS is ideal for that.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Good point, Alex, and I hope I didn't imply improper technique. I was addressing the issue of the brushes getting in the way. If I remember correctly, and I don't have a RAS handy at the moment, the brushes are slightly long when brand new. Once broken in after a period of use, they tend to curl slightly and conform more to the surface being sanded.

Another option is to use the scraper for the LS 130 for alligator paint.

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[worldburger]

Good point, Alex, and I hope I didn't imply improper technique. I was addressing the issue of the brushes getting in the way. If I remember correctly, and I don't have a RAS handy at the moment, the brushes are slightly long when brand new. Once broken in after a period of use, they tend to curl slightly and conform more to the surface being sanded.

Another option is to use the scraper for the LS 130 for alligator paint.

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Thanks, Shane. Does the LS 130 w scraper work better than a manual scraper?

I bought the RAS because trying to use scraper (painters tool, bladed scraper, AND a carbide) to get the paint up worked with poor to mixed results. The RAS is beyond expectations (it slows when I get to the original and 2nd layers on the wood).

I had already been considering the LS130.
I'll try flattening the brushes tonight.

Also, thanks for the suggestions, Alex!

 

[worldburger]

I should also add I plan on using a Rotex 125 to smooth out the trail blazed by the RAS

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Thanks, Shane. Does the LS 130 w scraper work better than a manual scraper?

Admittedly, this is not an accessory that I've used. I own my own LS 130 and really like using it. However, I've never used the scraper and have limited experience with paint. I've only seen a couple dozen photos of it in use like the ones I posted.

I wonder if Scott B. has one...  [scratch chin] I'll PM him.

I suspect it's going to be on par with the result you'd achieve with a manual scraper, but with less effort and presumably faster results.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I suspect it's going to be on par with the result you'd achieve with a manual scraper, but with less effort and presumably faster results.

I think it's quite the oppposite. Admittetly, I have no LS130 so no experience with it, but my experience with scrapers on other sanders I had is that they have very little power that way. They don't come close to a good scraping by hand. If the paint is really loose, then scraping by hand is the fastest and easiest way.

In my experiene, those scraper attachments for sanders work best when removing glue and similar substances. They work more like a chisel than a hand scraper.

 

[worldburger]

If the paint is really loose, then scraping by hand is the fastest and easiest way.

In my experiene, those scraper attachments for sanders work best when removing glue and similar substances. They work more like a chisel than a hand scraper.

Taking suggestions on good scrapers for old paint!

 

[AlexThePalex]

Taking suggestions on good scrapers for old paint!

The good old triangle is still my favourite. Just make sure you keep it sharp.

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