Sanity check - stair repair

[tjbnwi]

Seeing as the nails are painted, my guess is that stringer has been like that longer than some/most here have been alive.

If you're really worried about it drive a few Ledger Loks through the header into the stringer.

Remember, as/if/when you raise the stringer back into contact with the lower edge of the header, the tread now moves away from the header. Something else to deal with. The riser may also prevent you from raising the stringer without removing it.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

I've got to disagree, I'd definitely get that stringer back up and in line with the others. Either that or sister a new stringer right next to it at the correct height.

If you don't address it your stair won't sit flat and you'll eventually get squeaks from the void where the tread doesn't contact the stringer. Simpson strong tie brackets are a good idea but only once you get it back up in place.

His post stated "they". I assume it means all of the stringers have shifted like the one in the picture.

Tom

 

[rizzoa13]

I had thought from the original post that he was redoing the stairs or pulling them and refinishing. If that's not the case and your already done refinishing the treads and risers then yea, now is not the time to be jacking up the stringer. It really should have been fixed though.

 

[Cheese]

I had thought from the original post that he was redoing the stairs or pulling them and refinishing. If that's not the case and your already done refinishing the treads and risers then yea, now is not the time to be jacking up the stringer. It really should have been fixed though.

He's refinished the original first level stairs, but this new problem deals with the basement stairs.

 

[mrFinpgh]

Sorry for the confusion.  I should have been clear that this is a different set of stairs in the basement, which is (and will remain) unfinished.  The other stairs are about 90% complete, pending finding some scotia molding that matches the existing returns.

There isn't any noticeable movement or anything, and other than the gaps below the joist, everything else appears pretty secure.

I like the idea of the metal brackets and I have some GRK #9 R4 screws.  I would think the sum shear strength should be sufficient (around 2400lbs per bracket, I think).

Jacking it up is an option, although I lack the experience/wisdom/tools to be sure I can do that without jacking up the joists and structures above.  I'd rather have a gap down there than a bunch of busted plaster to repair in the finished space.

I plan on building some storage under the stairs, so I could make that provide some more vertical reinforcement.

Thanks,
Adam

 

[rizzoa13]

Cool thanks for clarifying. Jacking that stringer up could be as easy as cutting and oversized 2x6 and wedging it between the top portion of the stringer and the floor beneath. Hit the bottom with a sledge hammer gently towards plumb and it should incrementally move that stringer upwards. A car jack can also be used with a board to slowly lift it up.

That said if your fine with the structure of the stairs just add a bracket and call it a day. I will say though that if the stringers pulled downwards there is now a gap between treads and stringer which could cause problems in the future.

 

[Michael Kellough]

A photo that's in focus would help, and from a little wider vantage.

If the stringers were secure at the bottom they wouldn't have dropped at the top.
But it's possible the basement floor dropped through settling and took the stringer down with it.

Check to see if a tight fitting tread is level front to back. If it is then the floor dropped and both the bottom and top of the stringer should be shimmed/jacked and secured.

If the tight tread is pitched back then only the upper end of the stringer has dropped. Jack and secure.

 

[peter halle]

I will offer another theory here.  As Tom posted, if the bottom of the stringers are fixed in place and the plumb cut at the top of the stringer is tight against the header, then the stringers can't drop.  It is entirely possible that the gap has always been there. That connection with a nail has no real meaning in life except to possibly tack the stringer in place while working out the final placement. Supporting / re-enforcing in place is a very viable option.

Peter

 

[rizzoa13]

You could very well be right. I just got a new non-cracked phone and looked st it more closely. If the bottom hadn't now where it sits on the ground then it was prolly just a miscut.