Saw Advice

[rst]

I definitely agree with Paul, anyone complaining about the 75's weight has obviously never hoisted around a Skil sidewinder around for a day or two on a construction site.

 

[JimD]

Both the Makita and DeWalt track saws use a 6.5 inch blade so they cut a little deeper than the Festool 55 and they also both have bigger motors.  So if you want a little more cut capacity and significantly lower cost, they could be indicated.  I use a DeWalt which I like very much.  But it is heavier than the Festool 55 or the Makita.  Doesn't bother me.  DeWalt also offers a router accessory for their track which is occasionally very handy.  Festool does too but not Makita.  But some Festool accessories will probably work with the Makita track.  Or a Makita saw can be used on a Festool track (but the track is perhaps the priciest part of the Festool track saw setup).

You will want some sort of cutting surface.  I used a lattice of 1x4s on edge for a long time and still have it.  Put up a couple saw horses and put the lattice on top and you can cut up a bunch of sheet goods.  But I built a Paulk style workbench and it is a lot nicer to use.  A MFT looks nice too but it's small.  Paulk workbenches can also support small table saws which, when paired with a good tracksaw, make a very capable setup. 

I like to cut 2x4s with one of my miter saws.  It's easier and quicker.  But I sometimes use my Ryobi cordless circular saw or my Milwaukee corded circular saw.  Cordless tools are not as capable but quite handy when you just need to make a few cuts.  But I wouldn't go cordless on a track saw.  You need to hook a vacuum to it which will need power. 

 

[semenza]

Hi Mattmass,

Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

      If you go the TS75 route, you will most likely want to get the Fine blade for it to use on sheet goods. It comes with the Universal blade. It gives a good cut but not the same quality on sheet  goods as the Fine.

    The TS55 comes with the Fine blade.

Seth

 

[Cheese]

It falls into the concept of overkill for sheet goods, and the wrong tool for someone that does not sport a can of spinach and a pipe.

For sheet goods, I just have a preference for the TS 55 saw. Small, lightweight and easy to handle.  I always thought of the TS 75 as being a rather large saw for breaking down sheet goods, rather like a Milwaukee worm gear saw which is certainly up to the task, but is certainly over weight for the intended purpose.

 

[Holmz]

Well [member=44099]Cheese[/member]  the good news is that massmatt asked a question and has a lot of opinions to investigate.
There are many good options, particularly if there is no budget.

[member=19439]Paul G[/member] and [member=25351]rst[/member] called me out of the weight of the 75. The mrs too is also amazed at how I often have a lack of strength, but I can curl 12 and 16 ouncers all day. It is of life's mystery.  [embarassed]

On a budget I would probably go the Makita and vacuum, and then do a lot of chin scratching as to whether a Zeta is the right tool. And go to some garage sales for a skil saw and cheap drill for the standard stuff.

 

[rst]

Holmz, It's all about incentive regarding those 12 and 16 oz'ers.  In regards to the 75, I regularly hoist around 100lb + commercial doors but I relize not everyone is so lucky.  Also, at almost 64, my wife and I go to the gym regulary to keep our girlish figures (not really working though!)

 

[Michael Kellough]

I bought an ATF 55 around 2002/3. Depth of cut was inadequate for a lot of stuff then in process. Found an old Festo(?)65 for sale and used it for the bigger stuff. All day long on the MFT.

That old 65 weighs exactly the same as the TS 75.

 

[Holmz]

In my mind, the TS75 seems thought of as the "do it all" version like the RO150 is more a "do it all" than an ETS/EC. Sort of like a domino700 with Seneca adapter "replaces a domino 500".

The TS 55 is the weakest of all the 55-mm track saws. The makita and deWalt have plenty of power, as do the Bosch/Mafell. So going UP to a TS 75 to get enough power, only mostly makes sense if one does not desire to use the Makita. (And they do not make the Bosch is 115v). And they want to cut near the full 2" in hard wood.

But, then again, who cares? If the TS55 is made for sheets, then those are mostly

 

[Jamestoolie]

Wow - I'm blown away by all the great information. Thank you everyone! I sincerely appreciate it.

I think the recommendation on going corded is very sensible. Cordless is cool, but I won't ever be far enough from power to make it a necessity.

I was a little surprised that no one thought the HK 55, when paired with a rail, could do the job - even for small projects. But, I think I get it. The TS 55 is a much more capable track saw, and could aways be used for small amounts of framing work.

  I have had the HKC for about 6 months now.  I originally bought it because i do not own a SCMS.  I immediately replaced the stock blade and put on a fine tooth blade.  I used it for framing lumber and one by trim on my two porches and fascia and soffit replacements.  I have used it without a rail, with the HSK rails, and the FS rails.  My TS55 sat in the systainer for months while i found all types of uses for the HKC.  I think it is a fantastic general purpose saw.  That being said i still use my TS55 for money cuts in finish plywood.  I agree with others that stated to fill today's need not next year's need.  Closets now and one day maybe framing, opposed to framing and closets now. 

 

[mattmass]

As luck (understatement!) would have it, I have an HK55 on the way. So, my choice was, quite happily I might add, made for me. That's is the saw I'm going to be using my projects.

I think the fine-tooth blade will be a necessity, as [member=43571]Jamestoolie[/member] suggested. What about the coarse blade? Will I appreciate having that for long rips, or is the stock blade good enough?

 

[leakyroof]

I bought an ATF 55 around 2002/3. Depth of cut was inadequate for a lot of stuff then in process. Found an old Festo(?)65 for sale and used it for the bigger stuff. All day long on the MFT.

That old 65 weighs exactly the same as the TS 75.

. Thanks for that info, I've often wondered about the '65 owners as you people must be a quiet group here on FOG.... [wink]
How hard is it to get blades for it?

 

[Jozsef Kozma]

I have a 65 and replacing blades never been an issue
Tolnut and woodcraft in Norwalk CT usually have them
An undistructible saw a little on the heavy side pain sometimes
With hose

 

[Birdhunter]

The Festool community does provide excellent advice and are fervent about specific tools. Either 55 or 75 saws are excellent, but there is a very big difference in their size and weight.

I'd recommend a Domino 500. Of all my tools, the Domino has changed my woodworking the most.

If you don't have a work bench and want to save some money, think about buying a cheap hollow core door with flat front and back. On two saw horses, the door gives you a very flat large surface. The doors I've used have been flatter, much flatter, than my paired MFTs. With a really good (Woodpecker) framing square, you can cut true 90 degrees. Shallow cuts into the door won't hurt it.

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

The Festool community does provide excellent advice and are fervent about specific tools. Either 55 or 75 saws are excellent, but there is a very big difference in their size and weight.

I'd recommend a Domino 500. Of all my tools, the Domino has changed my woodworking the most.

If you don't have a work bench and want to save some money, think about buying a cheap hollow core door with flat front and back. On two saw horses, the door gives you a very flat large surface. The doors I've used have been flatter, much flatter, than my paired MFTs. With a really good (Woodpecker) framing square, you can cut true 90 degrees. Shallow cuts into the door won't hurt it.

I agree doors make a very good work top.  If you have a Habitat Restore by you they sell doors for $10-15. 

 

[Cheese]

If you don't have a work bench and want to save some money, think about buying a cheap hollow core door with flat front and back. On two saw horses, the door gives you a very flat large surface.

Another vote for the hollow core door...there is a recycle center nearby that sells them for $7.

 

[Kevin Stricker]

Matt,
  I think you will like the HK, I think it is a game changer for the work I do.  Why break out the SCMS and tablesaw when you can use a single tool (and a couple tracks) to do the same work.  I went with the cordless version, but I already have a stable of corded saws.  It can plunge cut, and crosscut lumber.  The TS is not a safe saw for crosscutting lumber, yes it can be done on a workbench if the stock is properly supported, but after a couple kickbacks you will probably come to the same conclusion.

Those of you recommending the TS75, try holding it on it's track while cutting a filler on a fridge panel in place because someone decided last minute to get a bigger fridge, then tell me it's not heavy.  Great saw sure but I wouldn't want to size a dozen cabinets in a day with one. 

While I will still break out the TS55 for cabinet building I do think the HK is a better tool in a lot of ways.  More powerful and more versatile.  Cordless just makes things so much simpler to bring the tool to the wood vs the alternative.

 

[Jozsef Kozma]

This comes down to different tool for different task
HKC portable , excellent for crosscut , excellent dust bag when compared with others
                    Yes it can rip cut but
TSC.  Portable , excellent rip cuts , dust bag is great
                      Yes it can crosscut  but
HK and TS corded will give more power
All those saws above I consider light and accurate 

I also own 65 which is heavy  compare to the others
HK 75  is capable of all things above but is not a saw you want to drag around
          on site for cross cuts ,
I will also say an 85 will soon join the gang
All this saws are used regularly HKC  used most HKC second

 

[Paul G]

Those of you recommending the TS75, try holding it on it's track while cutting a filler on a fridge panel in place because someone decided last minute to get a bigger fridge, then tell me it's not heavy.  Great saw sure but I wouldn't want to size a dozen cabinets in a day with one. 

No one here recommended using a TS75 for cutting in the vertical.

 

[mattmass]

Matt,
  I think you will like the HK, I think it is a game changer for the work I do.  Why break out the SCMS and tablesaw when you can use a single tool (and a couple tracks) to do the same work.  I went with the cordless version, but I already have a stable of corded saws.  It can plunge cut, and crosscut lumber.  The TS is not a safe saw for crosscutting lumber, yes it can be done on a workbench if the stock is properly supported, but after a couple kickbacks you will probably come to the same conclusion.

Those of you recommending the TS75, try holding it on it's track while cutting a filler on a fridge panel in place because someone decided last minute to get a bigger fridge, then tell me it's not heavy.  Great saw sure but I wouldn't want to size a dozen cabinets in a day with one. 

While I will still break out the TS55 for cabinet building I do think the HK is a better tool in a lot of ways.  More powerful and more versatile.  Cordless just makes things so much simpler to bring the tool to the wood vs the alternative.

Could you elaborate on why the HK is safer for cross cuts? Is it he stops built into the rail?