Saw Blades - Universal vs Fine Tooth

[BobMagnuson]

I am experiencing a bit of chip out on the non rail side of the cut when using the standard 'Universal' 36t  blade on my TS 75.  I am cutting Columbia prefinished maple plywood which has a very hard finish.  Would the fine tooth (52t) blade make that much of a difference?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Lou Miller]

Do you have one of the plastic splinter guards on the saw? If so, what kind of shape is it in? You might want to get another one and zero it out. I have no experience with the universal blade, but I've cut prefinished sheet goods with the 52 tooth blade in the past and have had no problems. I'd check your splinter guard before the blade though.

 

[BobMagnuson]

Lou, doesn't the splinter guard only work if the blade is being plunged all the way?  It seems like when I first installed the splinter guard, I had to plunge the saw the entire depth to cut the guard the first time.

Bob

 

[Lou Miller]

Bob,

Maybe there's something different about the 75 than my 55, but it shouldn't matter. I use the splinter guard all the time at different depths with no issues. Just make sure you push the SG down to the surface of the material you're cutting. If the one you have is chipped up really bad or cracked or whatever, getting another one would be a good idea. IIRC, Festool sells them in a pack of 5.

 

[Bob Marino]

I am experiencing a bit of chip out on the non rail side of the cut when using the standard 'Universal' 36t  blade on my TS 75.  I am cutting Columbia prefinished maple plywood which has a very hard finish.  Would the fine tooth (52t) blade make that much of a difference?

Thanks,

Bob

Bob,

My first response is to do as Lou suggests and check or replace your splinter-guard. Also, a 36 t blade would not leave as fine a cut as the 52 t blade.

Bob

 

[Loren Hedahl]

I'm not convinced that you need or want to plunge you saw all the way down when installing a new splinter guard.

In fact, if you normally use, say 1/2 inch ply, why not have a specific guard that is has been opened up to work best at a plunge just slightly over 1/2 inch?

I would think that would give you the best anti-splintering.

To carry this idea to extreme, you could develop a "designer" set of anti-splinter guards each color coded or labeled for each thickness of material you might be wanting to cut!

Loren

 

[Michael Kellough]

...To carry this idea to extreme, you could develop a "designer" set of anti-splinter guards each color coded or labeled for each thickness of material you might be wanting to cut!

Loren

I thought one size fits all. Doesn't the length of the green anti-splinter shoe span all plunge depths? When it get worn back from use just put a new one on, much easier to do than moving the rubber strip of the guide rail.

How do wear rates compare between the two anti-splinter devices?