Saw rails

[woodnerd]

I've been looking at the 106" rail, but I just don't do long rips that often and $260 would hurt.  I have the 55 and several times already (two week owner) I wished I had a bit more length.  I'm thinking of getting a 75" and using the rail connectors with the 55 for the occasional sheet good rip, but some say the connectors don't work very well.  What do you guys think?

Alternatively, has anyone made their own long rail?

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

...but some say the connectors don't work very well.

I would be interested to know what you've heard about the rail connectors not working very well.  I've used them quite a few times to join rails without any issues and don't know of any issues with them.  I have read where some people have complained that the rails aren't always perfectly square on the ends.  The simple solution, and the method we recommend, is to leave a small gap (1/16") between the rails when joining them.  Most users tend to use a straight edge to verify that they are perfectly straight after joining.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

I have two 55" rails which I join together to make cuts in 8 foot sheets and I have had no problems.  If I want to ensure alighnment I use a 6 ft level against the edge of the rails while I tighten the joint bars.  This works but a 75 and a 55 would give more length for getting the saw on and off the cut start and end and allow for a more angled cut if needed. I think it comes down to an issue of money and convenience/inconvenience of just having a longer rail, depending of course on how much you use it or if you need to transport them.

Best,
Todd

 

[joraft]

...  I'm thinking of getting a 75" and using the rail connectors with the 55 for the occasional sheet good rip, but some say the connectors don't work very well.  What do you guys think?

I have the 118" rail, and that's what I prefer for long rips, but it's difficult to transport away from the shop, so I also have several shorter rails.

I've had no trouble with the connectors at all. As was said, you cannot trust the ends to be perfect enough for alignment. I install the connectors and leave them just snug, lay the joined rails on a flat surface and straddle the joint with the saw (eccentric adjusters set a little snug), then tighten the connectors. This method has always given me a very straight rail in just seconds.

 

[woodnerd]

I would be interested to know what you've heard about the rail connectors not working very well

It was on some woodworking forum, I'm on several so I can't recall exactly which one now.  There were several people in the thread saying the resulting combined rail wasn't straight or wouldn't stay straight.

So, if a gap is left between the rails, is there any play as the saw passes over that joint?  I guess the real question is does it have any effect on the cut?

 

[chrisrosenb]

I have used joined rails many times & never had a problem with the connectors or the rails staying straight.
That includes connecting 2 106" rails to straight line rip 16 foot long lumber.

 

[Hoover]

I've seen posts from people who say that too.  I have two 55" 's and they do connect well, you just need to do it the right way.  That being said, I would rather have one 106" rail and one 55".  Cost was an issue with me and also I like the portability at times when I will be cutting 8' sheet goods somewhere else.

If you are using it for a TS and not for some of the other tools and accessories then you could take a look at the makita guide rails, I believe the 106" one is around $190 to $200 and for the TS its the same thing.  They have a lip on their rail  that might not make some festool accessories work on it or might require some modifying.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

So, if a gap is left between the rails, is there any play as the saw passes over that joint?  I guess the real question is does it have any effect on the cut?

No, you shouldn't experience any issues whatsoever when the saw passed over the space.  It's so minute that it's negligible.  Likewise, there's no effect on the cut, other than it's longer than it would have otherwise been.  [big grin]

 

[Tim Sproul]

To help prevent "hang-up" with connected rails, deburr or bevel the ends of the rails.

The connectors work fine.  Don't tighten the grub screws too tightly.  Snug is all you need.

2 connected rails are significantly more weighty in use than a single rail.  This is because in use, you will often handle a rail more on one end than handling it in the middle of the rail.  This gives you a leverage effect and those steel connectors become much heavier at the end of 55 inches compared to setting right in your palm.

The gap between rails should be far less than 1mm.  I've never noticed a bump in the cut line at the junction and I don't recall anyone else ever mentioning a similar issue.

 

[woodnerd]

take a look at the makita guide rails

The only long rail size I see is 118" at approximately the same price as a Festool 106" and not as cool  [wink]

 

[ccarrolladams]

I've been looking at the 106" rail, but I just don't do long rips that often and $260 would hurt.  I have the 55 and several times already (two week owner) I wished I had a bit more length.  I'm thinking of getting a 75" and using the rail connectors with the 55 for the occasional sheet good rip, but some say the connectors don't work very well.  What do you guys think?

Alternatively, has anyone made their own long rail?

Back in January 2006 when I bought my first TS55, it came with one 1400mm (55") guide rail. Realizing that would not be enough to rip an 8' sheet, I bought a second 1400mm rail and the connecting bar set (cat 482-107)  Raoul at my Festool dealer (Eagle Tool) shared about leaving a small gap when connecting the rails. I already had several long straight edges to ensure the connected rails were straight. After reading the catalog I realized I could still add a CT22 as part of the combo deal. When I drove back to get it, I bought a third 1400mm rail, so I could use it to make cross cuts without breaking down the connected pair.

These days when I am working away from my shop, I carry all 3 of the 1400mm rails and a set of connectors. I do use the third 1400mm rail to ensure alignment of the connected pair. Yes, at my shop I prefer either my 2700mm or 3000mm rail for rips. My experience is the 2700mm (106") is long enough to rip an 8' sheet with a TS55, but I need to be really careful with the over hang. That is less of a problem with a connected pair, which is 2800mm or 110" The TS75 needs a bit more rail. This is where the 3000mm (118") rail is so useful.

Of course you can connect a 55" to a 1900mm (75") guide rail. A good friend of mine does that. He does not find the long combination difficult to handle by himself. Since he only owns those two rails he uses a 6' level as his straight edge, and he leaves a small gap between rails when connecting them.

I tend to use my TS75 on solid wood. The couple of times I tried it for cross cuts on 4x8 sheet goods, I used my 1900mm rail.

 

[Wood_Junkie]

I connect rails together fairly regularly.  I have several of the 55", a 42" and a 32"  (FS1400, FS1080, and FS800, respectively).
It is true that two 55"s together is just barely enough overhang at the front and end of the cuts, but it works.  I have lusted for a 75" rail, but I want to keep everything in my guide rail bag...

I haven't had any issues with the cuts not being straight.  I often use the 'back' a "spare" rail to align the rails being connected... or use a level, or straightedge.  Whatever happens to be most handy.

One connected, I don't find that they shift or move.  The connector bars aren't going anywhere.  But you do have to be careful handling the rails when a connected pair.  There are some torque forces that could bend the rails. 

I just recently used a connected pair of 1400's to trim 3/16" off a door and to rip some plywood.  Having a spare rail helps, as I used one of those to trim the bottom of the door without having to disconnect the pair first.

 

[Holzhacker]

I just had my 75 and 55 joined together this weekend to rip down some 2x4's at angle to level out a back porch floor. No problems. I did check a couple of the rips out of curiosity to see if there was any lack of straightness at the joint. Nothing I could notice.
Guys have stated on threads in the past that they worry about joined rails not being 100% true. As a carpenter it's a bunch of nonsense. a 32nd or 16th when ripping a 2x or sheet of ply for building a house. Irrelevant, and I'm a picky SOB. I've made guys rebuild walls for relatively minor issues. For cabinetry and furniture, maybe it's a potential issue. You can always verify with a tape and pencil marks.
When you tighten the screws on the connectors make sure the rails are butted nice, tight and even. You'll be fine.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Confessions of a rail joiner:

It works great and I never check the rails.
It gets old after a while and I would suggest buying the 3000mm rail.

And the set screws are hard to find when they come loose in your trailer.

 

[peter halle]

Darcy,

I thought I was the only one who lost the set screws in my trailer.  [big grin]  I know take them out and put them in a zip lock bag.  Guess what.  I looked the other day and I found the zip lock.  I couldn't find the connector bars.  What the heck?  Mutiny I say! [eek]

Peter

 

[harry_]

Confessions of a rail joiner:

It works great and I never check the rails.
It gets old after a while and I would suggest buying the 3000mm rail.

And the set screws are hard to find when they come loose in your trailer.

Darcy,

I told you how to fix that already! My rails have been in the back of my pick up for a year now with no loose screws. (well, atleast not in the rail connectors )

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Confessions of a rail joiner:

It works great and I never check the rails.
It gets old after a while and I would suggest buying the 3000mm rail.

And the set screws are hard to find when they come loose in your trailer.

Darcy,

I told you how to fix that already! My rails have been in the back of my pick up for a year now with no loose screws. (well, atleast not in the rail connectors )

I know you did. 

Sometimes I fail to implement these good ideas because I tend to forget most things after I sleep.

 

[VictorL]

There is nothing wrong with two rails with rail connectors, there is nothing wrong with one rail. Each solution has pros and cons. I do have several rails and love them.  Rails itself are straight, but when connect two of them you have to spend some time for adjustment.

Pros for two rail setup:
1. Cost.
2. Portability

Longer rail advantages:

1. Zero time for setup. TS saws can work as jointer, and any small gaps (1/32") are visible.
2. TS saw, especially TS-75 prone for tilting (see this thread: http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/tilt-locker/)
This jig won't work with two rail connectors in place). If you don't do beveled cuts it's not a case, but once I found its accuracy I used it often.

I  do have two 55" rails in the rail bag, my MFT equipped with FS-1400 rail too. In this setup I'm not limited to cross-cut only. Plus I do have FS-2700/2 rail and VERY happy with that. Unfortunately 10% discount for saw and rails is expired,

Regards,
VictorL

 

[zapdafish]

I use one of these to align both ends, then a quick check at the join. Works perfectly

 

[Tinker]

I have several different length rails.  Some are old style and some are new style. I have had no problems with any of the combinations.  One of the rails does (did) have a slight lip to it which was a little bothersome.  A quick touch with a file and there was trouble no more.
Tinker