Saw Stop...Who has one and do you like it

[Zacharytanner]

Hi Guys,
Other then the blade safety is it a great saw and worth the money? I have a Powermatic 66 3hp with 52 rails and love it.
Give me the pros and cons guys....

Thanks,
Frank

 

[fifo28]

WOW.  It is so nice to hear someone ask a reasonable question about SawStop.  This is such a heated topic on other boards.

So to your answer.  I have the Pro with the 52 rails.  I moved up from a Jet contractor saw.  I did all of the research that I could and compared it to another Jet and Powermatic 2000.  I felt the SawStop was just better + the added safety.  Build quality is excellent so is the finish.  Blade guard is great seconds to install and remove.  I actually use it!  DC is very good and the DC off of the blade guard is also very good.  Now if you have a 66, my guess is that your only improvement is going to be DC and safety related to the use of the blade guard (aside from the brake which is obvious).

For me it was an easy decision, I was upgrading anyway.  For you I believe its harder.  I don't think the saw has any negatives, but I am guessing that the positives are few for you.

 

[Jay Knoll]

I have a SS contractor saw, it was a great step up from the Dewalt benchtop saw that I previously owned.

The saw is great, and the safety feature is a big plus.  Accidents can happen  as mentioned here in Doug Stowe's blog

http://wisdomofhands.blogspot.com/2012/02/my-injury.html

When I searched this topic, the Google summary mentioned that "ironically this was the only saw in the shop that wasn't a SawStop"  (or something to that effect) but when I click on the link to his post, that comment doesn't show.

In any event, here is a very experienced woodworker/educator who got "bit" in spite of all of his expertise.

Jay

 

[EWTHeckman]

When I searched this topic, the Google summary mentioned that "ironically this was the only saw in the shop that wasn't a SawStop"  (or something to that effect) but when I click on the link to his post, that comment doesn't show.

I saw that comment. (The 8th one.) It was posted by someone anonymous about another student at a boat building school. It wasn't Doug Stowe.

 

[EWTHeckman]

The other night I was ripping some pieces down to 3/4" x 13/16", too small to use the blade guard. Even though I was using intermediate wood pieces and a push stick to keep my fingers away from the blade, I was definitely wishing I had a SawStop. I can relate to Doug Stowe's story, because I found that I gave up a lot of control when using the push stick. (The piece was trying to lift off the table.) Things can happen very quickly, even when you're being careful.

Given Frank's question, and fifo's response, I guess the question really comes down to one question: How much is that single safety feature worth to you?

 

[bruegf]

Hi Guys,
Other then the blade safety is it a great saw and worth the money? I have a Powermatic 66 3hp with 52 rails and love it.
Give me the pros and cons guys....

Thanks,
Frank

I've got the SS contractor saw and I have to say I really like it and its worth every penny.  Top quality and very solid, with the advantage of the brake system.  Plus, with the optional blade guard w/ dust port, dust collection is even better than with the Festool TS saw.  But I have to agree with others, that based on the saw you have, you'd only be gaining the advantage of the brake and some improved dust collection.

Fred

 

[GreenGA]

I have one, the Industrial 52" model.  I picked it up at a discount last year at the WW Show in Somerset. (floor model).

Having never owned a full sized tablesaw, I cannot comment about how it would stand up against other models.  I do know that I am very pleased with it.  The fit and finish are terrific.  It just feels like a quality piece of equipment.

I was able to dial the blade in to within .0005 (yes, 5 10-thousandths of an inch) and, unless one of my guys does something stupid, like they have been known to do, it cuts perfectly every time.  I can get 90's all day long.

I cannot comment on dust collection.  I still need to install a proper dust collection system in the shop.

All this aside, I had intentions of purchasing the latest model PM because of price and, supposed, unbiased comparisons.  However, one morning JR told me she wanted to help me make some things for the house.  PM out the door and SS it was.

The support from SS is right up there with Festool.  I send them an email and I get a response, and parts if necessary (a few were missing when I bought it).  I once mentioned I needed two screws that were missing.  Next thing I  knew, a bag of ever screw, nut bolt, washer, etc.., was sitting on my doorstep.

Prior to buying the one I did, I scoured all the WW boards, Craigs List and eBay looking for one at a good to great price.  Whenever I found something of interest, I would fire off an email to SS asking about the model, recalls, upgrades, etc...  As I noted terrific.

I would suggest you locate our very own  Paul Marcel's video he produced on his tricked out Sawstop.  He focuses primarily on the tricks, but he does cover some other aspects of the saw.  Also, you can find many a writeup on LumberJocks.

HTH.

 

[Vindingo]

The other night I was ripping some pieces down to 3/4" x 13/16", too small to use the blade guard. Even though I was using intermediate wood pieces and a push stick to keep my fingers away from the blade, I was definitely wishing I had a SawStop. I can relate to Doug Stowe's story, because I found that I gave up a lot of control when using the push stick. (The piece was trying to lift off the table.) Things can happen very quickly, even when you're being careful.

Given Frank's question, and fifo's response, I guess the question really comes down to one question: How much is that single safety feature worth to you?

this is no replacement for a SS, but I was seriously considering this system as some extra insurance with the table saw. 

Tricky Cuts on a Table Saw - Micro Jig GRR-Ripper

 

[RonMiller]

I've had the industrial version for about 3 years and don't like it - I love it. Great in every way and yes, I've triggered the mechanism a few times.

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I don't own one, but I have used the 52 inch pro a lot at the school where I take courses.

The sawstops have been at the school for three years now and they take an incredible amount of abuse.  They have held up very well.  The safety mechanism has gone off a few times, but on the other hand, there have been zero TS accidents in these three years.

We used to have PM66's, so I know that one, too.  My personal opinion is that the SS and the PM66 are about even as far as capabilities go.  I would say that dust control is about the same.

I only know of two very minor 'cons' about the SS.  First, the safety mechanism has to be changed out when you go between a regular blade and a dado, but that only takes a couple of minutes.  Second, the safety mechanism, out of the box, expects your blade to be exactly 10", some of our Freud blades were a little smaller.  You can recalibrate the safety mechanism, but if it goes off, you have to do the same to the replacement.  We kept it simple and just retired our non-standard blades.

I guess in summary,  I would say that the big difference between your PM and a SS is just the safety features.  Beyond that they are both great saws.

 

[jmarkflesher]

I have owned a Delta Unisaw for 20 years from new. I have had 3 or 4 close calls but have been lucky. From what I read it will be mandated that all saws have a system like Sawstop, but who knows how soon. I do have a question for sawstop owners. I read that a wet piece of wood,higher moisture content, or womanized could trigger brake. Brake cost about $80 and blade could cost $150 to $200 to replace. Yes I agree. Small cost for a finger or two. Have you had and FALSE stops?

 

[Joe Smith]

this is no replacement for a SS, but I was seriously considering this system as some extra insurance with the table saw. 

Tricky Cuts on a Table Saw - Micro Jig GRR-Ripper

I have a PM66 and have two of the Grippers.  I think the Grippers are a far more useful safety feature then the Saw Stop. While I do like that the Saw Stop makes it near impossible to cut yourself, I do not plan on making any cuts that my hands are anywhere near the blade.  Unless the Grippers have a catastrophic failure, I should be good.  The Grippers take getting use to, but once you implement them in your routine, you will find that you wondered how you got by safely before them.

I looked at the PM66, PM2000, and the Saw Stop when I upgraded a few years ago.  I originally ordered the PM2000 (due to all the extras that came with it), but it arrived all messed up because of the shipping company and I denied shipment.  They could not unscrew their shipping company, so I went shopping again. 
I ended up with the PM66, because it was on close out on Amazon and I could not beat the price. That is the only reason. 

I really could not find a major difference amongst the three aside from SS safety mechanism.  Sure there are things like the casters on the PM2000 and blade guard DC thing on the SS, but none of that really matters when you come down to it.  For me, I am not moving my saw, so mobility was not an issue. Also, I planned on having a overhead dust collector on it, no matter what saw I ended up with.  Reality for me was that all three saws are basically equal when it comes down to how they are built and what they do, which is cut wood.

The two things about SS that concerns me are:
The cost of replacing the mechanism and blades.  I have heard about the mechanisms going off without touching the blade, but I do not know if that happens alot or is true.
The other thing that I have never heard addressed is that when the mechanism goes off, how does it effect the frame of the saw.  All the torque from stopping the blade, must do something to the saw. If it goes off accidentally or for real, a few times in the life of the saw, what are the stresses on the trunnions and other parts?

Currently, the PM66 with a Incra fence and two Grippers have worked great for me. I can not think of one thing I would like on it, wish I would change or add that the other saws offer.

Again, I recommend the Grippers for any saw that is bought. Those things are great and add such a piece of mind when I am using the TS.

 

[EWTHeckman]

this is no replacement for a SS, but I was seriously considering this system as some extra insurance with the table saw. 

That looks helpful. Thanks for the tip.  [thumbs up]

 

[Dave Hale]

jmark,

I'm just a hobbyist but no false stops. Extremely wet wood (ex. 4x4 Cedar post) did result in a shutdown. Motor just shut off, no brake tripping.  [eek]
You do have an option to 'bypass' the electronics. It's only good for one 'on' of the saw. Once you shut it 'off' it's reset.

 

[tiralie]

... womanized could trigger brake.

Yes, womanizing can trigger a brake alright... [wink]
Sorry couldn't resist...
Tim

 

[Zacharytanner]

Guys,
It appears that the gripper requires the blade guard to be off on most cuts, is that accurate? I am not interested if the guard needs to be off.

Frank

 

[tiralie]

Guys,
It appears that the gripper requires the blade guard to be off on most cuts, is that accurate? I am not interested if the guard needs to be off.

Frank

Yes, at least that is my experience. The blade guard is off on all the cuts I have used the gripper.
Tim

 

[jacko9]

Frank,  I have the Powermatic 66, 5 hp, 55" guide rails and Excaliber Sliding table and yes, I love this saw.

 

[Tristan Howe]

I remember reading a review that compaired the sawstop to the newest unisaw (imported parts, assembled in the usa) What I liked about the uni over the SS, you could make your own zero clearence inserts for the uni, the SS you could only use the factory SS ones. You also had more room from the front of the saw to the blade on the uni than the SS. The extention table on the SS was not as well made as the uni. The SS did win on dust collection though.

 

[Joe Smith]

Guys,
It appears that the gripper requires the blade guard to be off on most cuts, is that accurate? I am not interested if the guard needs to be off.

Frank

Yes, but you seem to be missing the point.  For the most part, the gripper becomes the blade guard.  In more ways then one, the Gripper is safer then standard blade guards, because you have control over it.  For me, standard blade guards are dangerous, because you are pushing the wood into them and losing visibility and control.  With the Gripper, you have both visibility and control through the cut.

There is a reason a large majority of people remove the blade guards on their saws.