SawStop Dust Collection

Birdhunter

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Jun 16, 2012
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I’m trying to improve the suction on the SawStop overarm blade guard/dust collector. I’m considering connecting a Festool Midi vac directly to the overarm port. I would buy the BlueTooth remote switch and attach it to the overarm instead of the vac’s hose.

Does this seem reasonable?
 
Birdhunter said:
I’m trying to improve the suction on the SawStop overarm blade guard/dust collector. I’m considering connecting a Festool Midi vac directly to the overarm port. I would buy the BlueTooth remote switch and attach it to the overarm instead of the vac’s hose.

Does this seem reasonable?

I'm about to purchase a new Sawstop PCS and after reading a number of reviews about the overarm blade guard dust collection, and talking with a couple who have it, I've decided to get it but will be hooking up directly to another shop vac. Apparently it works much better that way ...at least that's what I've been told.
 
I recommend you don't use the "t" adapter that comes with the kit to link the overhead collector to the bin under the saw.  The angle is too abrupt.  Use a "Y" connector instead.  I have mine hooked up to a 1500 CFM shop dust collector and it still just works OK but not great.  I have not tried the larger, heavy duty system they offer.  I think it has a 4" dust pipe instead of the 2".  That's got to help.
 
My SawStop is connected to the 2HP cyclone dust connector through a 4” duct. The overarm does connect to the 4” duct through a T joint. It might work better through a Y connector.

My gut tells me a dedicated CT vac would work better.
 
[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] - your instincts might be right but a 4” wye is a whole lot cheaper than a new CT. It might be worth a try. Just buy a 4” cap at the same time so if the experiment fails you just cap the new wye branch and go buy your new vac. I do know that low speed, high volume DC’s act a whole lot better with a 4” pipe than they do with 1.5”. I don’t own either of SS’s overarm dust collection accessories but when I changed my DC duct system to accommodate my new PCS I did add an extra 4” wye just in case I ever add an over arm.
 

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Alanbach said:
[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] - your instincts might be right but a 4” wye is a whole lot cheaper than a new CT. It might be worth a try. Just buy a 4” cap at the same time so if the experiment fails you just cap the new wye branch and go buy your new vac. I do know that low speed, high volume DC’s act a whole lot better with a 4” pipe than they do with 1.5”. I don’t own either of SS’s overarm dust collection accessories but when I changed my DC duct system to accommodate my new PCS I did add an extra 4” wye just in case I ever add an over arm.

I looked at the picture quickly, and thought, hey, now that's an idea, mount the CT to the ceiling.  I wonder how he mounted it upside down.  ( The picture, for me, is upside down.  ) Took me a sec to realize the whole picture is upside down.  ;-)  Jokes on me....
 
Haha! Is it upside down after you touch the thumbnail? Or is your sight just that good that you were looking at the pic in postage stamp size?
 
[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] - When I was preparing to buy my PCS I had a conversation with my contact at Oneida. At the time SS had announced the new overarm but had not released it yet. I was trying to see if it was worth the wait until SS put the original over arm on the promotion again. She said that she could not see how the small one was ever going to be able to be collected efficiently. She described how challenging table saw collection is above the blade because the chips are being thrown forward toward the operator at high speed but the collection hose is pulling the air from the back. So the airstream has to be strong enough to actually change the direction of the chips 180 degrees. Apparently a very tall order with a 1 1/2” pipe. She advocated waiting for the new version with the 4” duct. Now they (Oneida) specialize in slow speed, high volume systems, NOT vacuums which are high speed low volume. So you could be right that the CT will perform better. Please let us know how it turns out.
 
Alanbach said:
So the airstream has to be strong enough to actually change the direction of the chips 180 degrees. Apparently a very tall order with a 1 1/2” pipe. She advocated waiting for the new version with the 4” duct.

I went the opposite way and have been very pleased with my set-up:

- A shop vac hooked up directly to the overarm dust collection accessory/dust collection blade guard
- 1.5HP dc hooked up to the 4" port for under-the-table dust collection.

Elsewhere I have already outlined the disadvantages of using the large overarm tube (based on my previous experience with a similar design of overarm for an ICS).

Don't use the overarm dust collection accessory with the stock T-port that is mounted below; expect 99.5% or more (except for edge cuts or cross cuts) if you use a dedicated shop vac.

 
Ta Da... I had a Festool Midi in the garage that I use to vacuum the cars. I moved it into the shop, slid it under the SawStop extended table, and hooked the hose into the overarm. Perfect fit.

I have the tiny Festool vac that I only use when out of the shop. That one can go into the garage for the cars.

This solution came to me about 2AM.

I'd love to find a way for the Midi to come on automatically when I start the saw. It is a 220V 3HP saw.
 
Birdhunter said:
Ta Da... I had a Festool Midi in the garage that I use to vacuum the cars. I moved it into the shop, slid it under the SawStop extended table, and hooked the hose into the overarm. Perfect fit.

I have the tiny Festool vac that I only use when out of the shop. That one can go into the garage for the cars.

This solution came to me about 2AM.

I'd love to find a way for the Midi to come on automatically when I start the saw. It is a 220V 3HP saw.

Curious to hear how much better you think this works vs. just the DC hooked to the 4 inch "T" fitting at the bottom.
 
[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] iVac makes a sensor that clamps around a wire and triggers their main control box.  You should be able to do what you want.
https://www.ivacswitch.com/ivac-for-hobbyists/

As to the effectiveness of the dust extractor connected directly to the blade guard, I would gamble that will maintain the highest air velocity compared to all the other options. 
 
I did some cutting with the Midi hooked directly to the overarm blade guard/dust collector. There is a LOT more suction!

The only time I get saw dust ejected from the saw is whenI am trimming an edge and the blade is not buried in the wood, but just skimming the edge of the wood.

The dust capture is much better with this new set up. It's not 100%, but much improved while edge trimming.

I will look up the IVAC product.
 
I bought the IVAC switch components and expect to install them middle of next week.

I had to reduce the Festool vac suction as I was getting small cutoffs sucked up into the blade guard.
 
Alanbach said:
[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] - your instincts might be right but a 4” wye is a whole lot cheaper than a new CT. It might be worth a try. Just buy a 4” cap at the same time so if the experiment fails you just cap the new wye branch and go buy your new vac. I do know that low speed, high volume DC’s act a whole lot better with a 4” pipe than they do with 1.5”. I don’t own either of SS’s overarm dust collection accessories but when I changed my DC duct system to accommodate my new PCS I did add an extra 4” wye just in case I ever add an over arm.

You'd be surprised how leaky those metal flex elbows that I see in the photo are. Once you get them set in a configuration you like, I suggest wrapping ALL your joints with metal duct tape. Also using two 45s (makes a much longer radius bend) in place of a 90 (if you have room) will improve performance significantly. Use a Wye and 45 in the branch connection (side outlet) in place of a TEE will reduce the chance of a small sliver if scrap getting wedged in the TEE. If you must use 90s use the longer radius ones.
 
[member=60461]Bob D.[/member] - I agree but I generally use silicone on the seams instead of tape. I did silicone most of the joints in this new run but I have not sealed the joints on the 90’s until I finish all of the brackets and supports just in case I have to reposition the pipe a bit. Also, it’s hard to tell from the picture but that is a wye, not a tee and those are long radius 90’s from Oneida. I try to keep the flex line runs as short as possible.
 
I don't know what all the worry and complaints are coming from about the overhead collection.  I just used the stock parts that came with my PCS and it's the best I've ever had.  I use a small 2 hp Grizzly collector (G1029).  In fact, if I disconnect the hose from the back of the blade guard and rip some stock, dust still blows  out the back port without and collection at all.  It's the best design I've ever used.  The only time it works substandard is when I rip less than say a 1/2 an inch to the left side of the blade, where the blade guard is only contacting the wood on the right side of the blade.  There's not a whole lot that can be done about that.
This is my 6th table saw I've owned and it's the only guard I actually use regularly.  The Excalibur overhead guard I used to have on my unisaw was garbage by comparison.
 
Jim Kirkpatrick said:
Snip.

This is my 6th table saw I've owned and it's the only guard I actually use regularly.  The Excalibur overhead guard I used to have on my unisaw was garbage by comparison.

Exactly! No clue why SawStop has brought the floating arm version back while it has the best dust collection blade guard design.
 
[member=15289]Birdhunter[/member] - Did you ever get your ivac parts and complete your dust collection improvement project? If so would you mind summarizing it for us? Currently i have neither of Sawstop’s overarm solutions. I want to do something. Originally I thought that I was going to wait for the new floating overarm but I’m just not sure it is worth it. Currently I think that i am leaning towards your plan. Still not sure. I do like the idea of being able to use the floating style all of the time even during dadoes and super narrow cuts when the blade guard is the wrong choice but I am still very much on the fence (pun intended).
 
With help from the IVAC tech staff, I did order the components and got them working. I dedicated a Festool vac to my SawStop I hooked the vac directly to the SawStop overarm. The IVAC unit triggers the vac to turn on when it senses the SawStop turning on. The IVAC unit keeps the vac running for a few seconds after the saw turns off.

The dust collection from the overarm is dramatically improved! I am very pleased with the new setup.

I do still have my cyclone dust collector hooked up to the SawStop’s 4” port.

This is not a cheap solution by any means, but it is highly effective. To me, any effective method of keeping dust out of my lungs is worth the money.
 
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