Scissor lift for drum sander?

festal

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Came across Jet 18-36 drum sander. Is it a bad idea to remove it from the open stand that it came with and use this instead?

DURHAND 300 lbs Hydraulic Motorcycle Scissor Jack Lift Foot Step Wheels for Small Dirt Bikeshttps://a.co/d/jiGl63F

I’ll make a plywood platform and attach it to the lift top then put the sander on top. This way  I can store it under my outfeed table and roll it out and lift it when needed

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I reckon that would work fine for small stuff but may be a bit rickety in use, and possibly an accident waiting to happen if you're doing long/wide stuff. I put mine on top of a 48" long rolling tool chest, as it's the 25/50 it fits just nicely, and I have heaps of storage in it.
 
My concern is the same as Luv's.  Perhaps you could add four folding legs.

First, raise it high enough that the legs don't reach the ground.  Then lower the legs.  Finally, lower the platform so the legs provide stability.  They are available from Lowes, and perhaps from Amazon.com.

images
 
Good idea, bad execution?
I have a 16-32 Supermax drum sander, on a harbor freight lift cart. It works great, but it is far more stable than that little blue lift looks.https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60438.html
I built a little wood base that kept it just short enough to fit under my outfield table, but made it tall enough so it can be level with the outfield when extended, and allowed me to bolt it down. I can take photos if you want.
 
I think you would better off going in a different direction. Jet puts that thing on a 20x37 stand. That the dimensions on the floor.

The lift you linked to is around 18x16. I feel like it is going to too tippy.

I also believe you might want to use it more frequently once you get it. The scissor lifts with electric motors are a pleasure to use, the pump ones still work but not as elegant.

Might be better off to figure out a mobile base with a very good method to lock and level the base.

Ron
 
simnick said:
Good idea, bad execution?
I have a 16-32 Supermax drum sander, on a harbor freight lift cart. It works great, but it is far more stable than that little blue lift looks.https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-60438.html
I built a little wood base that kept it just short enough to fit under my outfield table, but made it tall enough so it can be level with the outfield when extended, and allowed me to bolt it down. I can take photos if you want.

Photos would be great.  If i get the lift cart, don't think it will fit under my outfeed table

[member=74278]Packard[/member] thats not a bad idea to use the folding legs set to the height i want to use

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member] i can just swap out the leveling feet for dual locking casters and its going to be mobile on existing stand.  Was just trying to see if i can make it fit under assmebly table,  I saw a video of a guy using it with dewalt 735 planer on the same scissor lift but its not as wide as the drum sander.  might not be a good idea :)
 
Fully agree with what Ron said above, be prepared to use the sander far more and frequently than you anticipated. I love mine and it gets used to the max!

A drum sander is a seriously useful machine!
 
luvmytoolz said:
Fully agree with what Ron said above, be prepared to use the sander far more and frequently than you anticipated. I love mine and it gets used to the max!

A drum sander is a seriously useful machine!
Ah nice. Never used one before.  I decided to go with casters

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And despite what a lot of people told me before I got mine, yes you absolutely can thickness plane wood with a drum sander!

The right grit will remove astounding amounts of wood very quickly! Buy rolls and cut your own to save a fortune. Zirconia in the lower grits is just unbelievable for how aggressive it can be and how long it lasts.

The trick is to do many light passes instead of deep passes, the paper stays clean and doesn't develop burn rings. Good dust extraction is also essential to keep the drum clean and reduce burn rings developing.
 
luvmytoolz said:
And despite what a lot of people told me before I got mine, yes you absolutely can thickness plane wood with a drum sander!

The right grit will remove astounding amounts of wood very quickly! Buy rolls and cut your own to save a fortune. Zirconia in the lower grits is just unbelievable for how aggressive it can be and how long it lasts.

The trick is to do many light passes instead of deep passes, the paper stays clean and doesn't develop burn rings. Good dust extraction is also essential to keep the drum clean and reduce burn rings developing.

Thank you.  The one i got came with bunch of extra sand paper.  What grit do you usually use on yours?  My plan is to use the drum sander after milling so not sure if I should do 80 grit or 120 grit
 
For milling, 80 grit (preferably 60 and even 36 grit if  you have a lot of material you wish to remove quickly).  In my experience, the heavier grits create deep grooves that take many passes to remove completely with the successive grits.  So, I usually stop milling on the courses grits early to allow for this.  Your experience may be different, but I’d be overly cautious at first.

I use 120 grit for generally purpose work.

Actually, I’ve experienced the straight-line grooves with all grits, including 120 where I usually stop to allow removal with successive grits using random orbit sanders.  Due to this, I rarely use grits above 120.
 
sawdustinmyshoes said:
For milling, 80 grit (preferably 60 and even 36 grit if  you have a lot of material you wish to remove quickly).  In my experience, the heavier grits create deep grooves that take many passes to remove completely with the successive grits.  So, I usually stop milling on the courses grits early to allow for this.  Your experience may be different, but I’d be overly cautious at first.

I use 120 grit for generally purpose work.

Actually, I’ve experienced the straight-line grooves with all grits, including 120 where I usually stop to allow removal with successive grits using random orbit sanders.  Due to this, I rarely use grits above 120.

Thank you.  Got to see how easy it is to swap the paper on this sander.  not even sure what grit came installed.  I think its 80
 
festal said:
Thank you.  The one i got came with bunch of extra sand paper.  What grit do you usually use on yours?  My plan is to use the drum sander after milling so not sure if I should do 80 grit or 120 grit

As most of what I put through is for glue-ups and I'm doing it in quite large amounts, I'm not concerned about sanding marks so for thickness sanding I use 36-40grit, to get a finer finish I'll then go to 80, then 120, and if it's for a box or furniture I might go to 180 for a super fine finish, definitely no higher as the the higher the grit the less return and the more chance you gum up the paper.

I thought changing the rolls would be a real PITA, but once you get the knack of flicking the levers and engaging the ends, it's a super quick affair so it becomes quite fast to work through the grits. Buying good quality paper works out a great investment for a drum sander as it will last for ages and perform well. I think I pay around $90 for a 25m roll which for the 25/50 gives me around 8-9 rolls from memory.
 
Got the wheels attached. My motorized outfeed table came in handy. Adjusted the height and slid the sander on and off the stand
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I had the little 10/20 Performax, before the fire and have yet to replace it. I have thought about going to the bigger one, over analyzing it I guess.
It was really for home use anyway. I had it for a couple of years before taking it to work. Once I did it never came home again though. It was mostly for box parts or flattening segmented rings between glue-ups.
I find it similar to a hand-held belt sander as far as grit goes. Not really a finishing tool, so never higher than 120 and only one or twice at that. I kept 40 or 80 on it most of the time.
Where it really shines is with thinner material, end-grain, or all directions (segments) because planers don't deal with those well.
 
luvmytoolz said:
They're surprisingly heavy hey?

Yep.  Top is around 170 pounds.  Had to get my friend to help me get it out of the car, but motorized outfeed table that i have came in extremely useful to move offload it from the stand to get the wheels on.  very little effort with the table and furniture blanket
 
Crazyraceguy said:
I had the little 10/20 Performax, before the fire and have yet to replace it. I have thought about going to the bigger one, over analyzing it I guess.
It was really for home use anyway. I had it for a couple of years before taking it to work. Once I did it never came home again though. It was mostly for box parts or flattening segmented rings between glue-ups.
I find it similar to a hand-held belt sander as far as grit goes. Not really a finishing tool, so never higher than 120 and only one or twice at that. I kept 40 or 80 on it most of the time.
Where it really shines is with thinner material, end-grain, or all directions (segments) because planers don't deal with those well.

I reckon if you get one I'd go for the larger one. I did originally intend to get the 16/32 but when you work out the consumables cost and efficiency, I think the larger one is the better option, with far more sanding area the belts will last far longer, be more economical, and you can do a table if needed. Plus it's heavier, extra mass and rigidity is always good for machinery.

I do a lot of edge laminating in timbers, and after ripping on the bandsaw I thickness sand down to around 2mm-4mm very frequently and fast, sanding up to 180 for a super fine finish that requires the barest of final finessing before oiling.

I'd be lost without my drum sander, bang for buck it's probably my best return on investment that I own.
 
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